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Grumble grumple Duraspark grumble....


85_Ranger4x4

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Way back around 2007-2008 I durasparked my 2.8. Used a JY Ford Duraspark box and kept the factory E coil. When I swapped in the 302 in early 2011 it was plug and play with a reman '85 Mustang dizzy and worked great. Late 2011 I got a new radio and with the dash all apart I hadn't noticed the tach (usually mounted to steering column cover) had fallen down off the signal and wiper sticks and was hanging on the wires. Apparently the steel dash support cut the insulation on one so when I went to test the radio it caused a bunch of smoke (and lots of terror :icon_surprised:) until I jerked the battery cable off. Killed both module and coil in the process... both parts were old but it was totally my fault IMO.

So I got new "premium" junk from Carquest I think to replace. Two years later in 2013 in the middle of a snow drift on top of a hill the coil died. I got new premium this time from O'Reilly's. I was so disgusted by it I got a pair of cheapies (both module and coil) to keep behind the seat in a little toolbox with the appropriate tools to swap "just in case" so I didn't get stranded somewhere... and receipts. I also remade the harness going from the module to the dizzy at this time, out in the blowing snow I got disgusted trying to get it to make connections with the 30 yo harness.

Two months ago the coil gave up again. It had been acting funny, hard to start at random times and lower on power. I was at the gas station next to Carquest so I limped it over on my spare and changed it at home.

Going down the main drag this morning the truck died like I shut the key off, wouldn't say a word. Pulled it to work (there is no way my new coil could be bad already right?) and it took both the module and coil yet again to run.

What is the deal? Do I need to go OEM? Is something in the wiring hard on them (connections?) I see MSD makes a drop in coil, nothing on a module though. Rockauto has a Motorcraft but it looks identical to the one I just took out.
 
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bf750

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Ive had good luck with accel
 

kimcrwbr1

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Are you using the stock TFI coil the square one? Do you have a volt meter? The only thing I can think of is your overcharging burning up the coils. Maybe try putting a ballast resistor for the coil pos.
 

85_Ranger4x4

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Yeah, the square E-coil.

Overcharging as in the alternator? I would rather replace a malfunctioning alternator than try to find a resistor to knock it down from whatever it is running that day.

Most ballast resistors are to make 6V coils live in a 12V system.

It is something to check though, thanks. :icon_thumby:
 

kimcrwbr1

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The ballast resistor was designed to cut down voltage to the points normally takes 12 volts to around 9.5 volts. The TFI coil is internally resisted and should be able to handle up to 15+ volts. What is battery voltage when running at 2000 rpms with all the accys off? It should not be over 2.5 volts internal regulator or 2 volts external regulator for the alternator. Fully charged battery should be around 12.7 volts so at 2000 rpms it should not be over 15.2v internal or 14.7v external measure at the battery.
 

win

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A little out in left field, but what spark plug gap are you running?

On two other "marques" that I own, it's been found that reducing the spark plug gap by about 10% to 90% of spec has a huge effect on improving the life span of the coils.

Think the line of reasoning is that the smaller gap is easier for the coil to jump so has does not "work" as hard and lasts longer.

All I know is that I had a car that ate coils to a point where I had to carry a spares and tools just for the job. Narrowed the gap and never lost another coil.
 

85_Ranger4x4

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The ballast resistor was designed to cut down voltage to the points normally takes 12 volts to around 9.5 volts. The TFI coil is internally resisted and should be able to handle up to 15+ volts. What is battery voltage when running at 2000 rpms with all the accys off? It should not be over 2.5 volts internal regulator or 2 volts external regulator for the alternator. Fully charged battery should be around 12.7 volts so at 2000 rpms it should not be over 15.2v internal or 14.7v external measure at the battery.
We use those resistors all the time when converting tractors from 6V to 12V.

Barely below 13v not running, right at 14v running at the battery. RPM didn't make a difference.

A little out in left field, but what spark plug gap are you running?

On two other "marques" that I own, it's been found that reducing the spark plug gap by about 10% to 90% of spec has a huge effect on improving the life span of the coils.

Think the line of reasoning is that the smaller gap is easier for the coil to jump so has does not "work" as hard and lasts longer.

All I know is that I had a car that ate coils to a point where I had to carry a spares and tools just for the job. Narrowed the gap and never lost another coil.
They have been in for 3 years so I don't know off the top of my head. They were at spec. I know I opened up the plugs on my 2.8 some to help with fouling with hotter spark, coil didn't seem to care then.

Dad keeps going off on how he had nothing but problems with parts store modules 20 years ago with his '80 F-350, ended up going to Ford for one and never having a problem again...
 

85_Ranger4x4

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Anyone know what DS runs for amperage to put a fuse on the key power side of it?
 
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I've been having duraspark issues myself recently. Got frustrated enough that I bought a new HEI distributor. did some research before I bought and haven't heard anything bad about the Skip White HEI drop in for $70 with new wires so I'm giving that a shot.
 

85_Ranger4x4

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Yeah, they are pretty cheap. You can wire just the module to work for even less than getting the huge dizzy.

I am rewiring all the extra crap I have added to truck to two fuse panels so everything will be fused in one place instead of inline fuses scattered all over one panel hot with the battery (mainly various lights) and one panel will be hot with the key via a relay(for the fuel pump, efan, ign, choke...) I was going to use the current keyed power wire that goes to the ignition to power the key power relay and the ignition will get to have its own fused circuit.

I haven't had any problems but all the fuse taps bug the heck out of me.

But I don't know how much the ignition pulls to know how much is too much...
 

85_Ranger4x4

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I am putting to back to right with a regular Ford harness so I don't have to keep voiding module warranties by putting weatherpack connectors on them. My JY harness has an extra connector I am not sure what it does. My guess is it for a factory tach?

It shares the green and black wire pins in the connector that goes into the module.



 

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