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Clutch problems.


Hsmcorey

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I have a 95 ranger that I have put an 88 302 with M5od r2 into. I have removed and fallowed precision's technique for bleeding the master cylinder, then I tried gravity and pressure bleeding the slave cylinder and I still cant get the clutch to release. I have read that there are a couple different slave cylinders and master cylinders floating around but not a definitive way to make them work together. I had to get the 88 hose to make everything to connect because the early trans will not accept the later slave cylinder. I have to have this truck together so I can drive it next weekend when I move 500 miles back up north.

Again thanks for all the amazing help you guys have offered.
 


Hsmcorey

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After doing some research the 95 ranger and f150 share the same slave cylinder and bore on the clutch master cylinder, and the 88 ranger and f150 share the
same slave (that is not the same as the 95) and bore (larger than the 95). Has anyone found a quick and hopefully cheap way to go between the smaller 95 master cylinder and the older 88 slave cylinder.
 

Hsmcorey

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Before I have to buy a new trans today and pull the motor and everything back out to change it does anyone have any suggestions?
 

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From what I gather, you have a master that has a bore too small for the slave. The slave isn't getting enough volume to move enough to release the clutch. There was a thread or two on masters with a bigger bore and IIRC that would be an f-250. Try the search button or physically measure the bore, then get a bigger bore master. This may require new ends on the lines, I'm not sure.

Another thought is to move the actuating rod farther from the pivot point, but I don't know how good you are at fab.

Also, it may not be the clutch system at all. I had a problem with my b-ii, and that ended up being the clutch master mounting ear broke.

In my research there was instances of a cracked firewall allowing too much movement so the pedal didn't push the rod enough. I found one ranger where someone welded the crack.

Good luck,

Richard
 
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Hsmcorey

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Thanks for the reply, the 95 rangers master cylinder doesn't mount to the firewall it mounts to the pedal assembly inside, the older ranger master cylinders are larger but they mount to the firewall but I do not have a way to mount it. Also I am using an M5OD-R2 so it is an internal slave cylinder. I have spent a lot of time with the search option and there isn't a post I have yet found that deals with the problem using an older trans to a newer slave that didn't involve a lot of fab work. I don't have time to wait on parts that aren't available from parts stores and to do a bunch fab work as I have to have it done so I can drive it when I move this saturday.
 

alwaysFlOoReD

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I didn't know that about the 95 masters. Hopefully someone else with knowledge about the newer trucks has a suggestion.

Richard
 

Teddyzee

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I mounted the early master cylinder to my firewall easily by cutting off the piece of the pedal bracket that holds the stock master, and drilling two holes in the firewall.
You can see pictures in the build thread that is linked in my sig.
 

alwaysFlOoReD

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^^^ teddyzees link; posts # 135, 139, 153, 174, 197 [broken link], 219, 220,
 

Hsmcorey

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Tedyzees, thanks for the input. I will check out your thread when I get home. did you have any problems with clutch function?
 

Teddyzee

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^^^ teddyzees link; posts # 135, 139, 153, 174, 197 [broken link], 219, 220,
Cool! I fixed the link, its just going to this thread:

http://www.rangerpowersports.com/forum/v8-tech-12/anyone-use-aftermarket-clutch-master-cyl-95-a-250266/

Swapped my master cylinder yesterday. Haven't finished bleeding it yet, I was working alone. May tackle that today.

Here's the pedal bracket that holds the stock 5/8" master cyl on the '95 and later trucks. The master slides into the square hole, then gets a quarter turn to lock in place:


Here's the stock 5/8" master on the left, with the much larger 7/8" master from an '88-'91, non 4.0 truck. You can see it has an angled flange that bolts to the firewall. (firewall strength is an issue, that's why the design changed, I believe)


The larger round end does not fit through the square hole, of course... so off it came. Looks like aluminum, cut like white metal. Super easy:


This is a shot from inside the fender well. I removed the inner fender again. The hole on the right was drilled from the inside. The line for the remote resevoir rests up against the brake booster. I used the longer line from the stock resevoir. The short one likely would have fit, as the 7/8" master has the outlet at a more direct angle to the res (not shown):


Stock 5/8" master on the left, showing the adaptor for the -3an braided line (http://www.summitracing.com/parts/RUS-640281?autofilter=1&part=RUS-640281&N=700+115&autoview=sku):


And the finished product from inside (before the clutch pedal position sensor was re-attatched):


Hope this works!



For anyone who notices, I've just never had the time to duplicate those threads on the TRS forum, sorry!
 

Hsmcorey

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It turns out I was miss informed. I was under the impression the slave cylinders could not be swapped between the different year transmissions and that is not correct. Both size slaves can be put on to any of the M5OD transmissions so I just had to match the same slave to my clutch master cylinder. Problem solved and the clutch works as intended.
 

Fant

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Details???

What yr model ford slave cylinder did u use for ur internal slave cylinder for the quick connect?was it for ranger or f150?im using 97 r2 and need to buynew slave cylinder for my clutch to work. Just dnt knw what yr or for which truck model to buy. Any info would be great
 

Hsmcorey

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Use the same year as the truck you put it into not the one it came out of and the ranger & f150 slaves are the same part number so it doesn't matter.
 

old guy

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I just got done with my M5R2 swap in my 5.0 Bronco 2 . Here is what I used and found that worked for me, I used a 1996 slave and a 1988 master and a 1988 line that I had to change the end on for it to work with the 1996 slave. What I did was cut the 1988 master end off and heated the line up and put the 1996 master end in the line. The way that I heat the line was with a hot air gun. It only took my son and I about 20 minutes to bleed the complete system and I have only put about 100 miles on it so far but I have not had any problems with and I have very good clutch disengagement. I am using a center force stage 2 clutch set.
 

Hsmcorey

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If you had used the '88 slave it would have prevented a lot of work. Also the 88 master is a .88" bore and the '96 slave is designed for a .66" bore master so Id keep an eye on it that you don't pop it.
 

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