Uh oh

WNGLDR · Jul 15, 2014

98 Ranger 4X4 4.0 with over 200K miles. Alright folks, I spent the past month or so gathering all the needed pieces parts that I should need to replace the timing chain on my truck. I was doing all my homework by reading through the shop manual before diving into it but I'm a bit concerned. I just noticed the manual indicates that I have to pull the engine in order to replace the timing chain to "properly reseal the timing chain cover-to-oil pan joint." So, like the title says, Uh Oh. Not only am I not prepared to pull the engine, I don't have an engine hoist and, even it I did, I'm going to be pushing the limits on what I'm allowed to do in my driveway just replacing the timing chain due to some restrictions in our community. If necessary, I would think I'd just be able to pop the mounts loose and raise the engine a bit to get this done. Opinions? Suggestions? Thanks all, JJ.

RonD · Jul 15, 2014

Yes, you do need to drop the oil pan down a bit, 1/2inch, to remove timing chain cover.
Yes in the shop manual when they aren't paying for labor they would pull the engine.

The timing chain cover is part of the lower block when resealing the oil pan, which is why oil pan needs to be lowered and why timing chain cover needs to be in place when re-seating oil pan.

Just FYI, never heard of a 4.0l OHV engine needing a timing chain, mine is 300k+.

hondaxr650 · Jul 15, 2014

I'm sure I can't be the only one who has removed and resealed a timing cover on a 4.0 without lowering the pan. When I pulled mine due to a coolant leak, the front of the pan gasket was trashed. I cut it off flush with the front of the block and ran a big bead of silicone across the pan when I put the cover back on. I wasn't sure if it was going to work but it's been like that for about 4 years and is still dry as a bone. It's worth a shot because getting the pan off with the engine in the truck is a royal biotch!

WNGLDR · Jul 15, 2014

Thank you for the input, I'm sure that if I need too I can lift the motor up by a 1/2 inch to get the proper clearance. I do have to admit that I'm a bit leery about doing this for some reason, I think most of it because I'm disabled so it'll take me a while longer than most to get the job done. I'm going to be picking up an air compressor so I can use my air ratchets and such which will save me a lot of time and I won't have to be bent over for as long. I also will be replacing the water pump as I need to pull that anyway. If there are any suggestions or such I'm open for them. If able, I'm going to try to take copious pictures and such to post on TRS as I didn't see any articles showing how to do it. I figured that it might help someone else that may be thinking about tackling this issue.

In reference to RonD, I'm just trying to make this thing last as long as I can. I'm also on the 3rd set of heads with this truck and speaking with several other Ranger owners that have the 4.0 OHV engine, there is a "common" problem with the heads cracking between the intake and exhaust valves between the two forward cylinders. I don't think the chain can be stretched enough to through the timing off so far as to cause this issue but with this many miles on it I figure I might as well get it done anyway.

Again, thank you for the input, I'll be checking back in a few days.

adsm08 · Jul 16, 2014

I say f**k the "community restrictions". This is America, you are free to work on your car yourself, at home, in your driveway, on your property. As long as you are not spilling a bunch of harmful chemicals into the water table they can't do or say anything about it.

swynx · Jul 16, 2014

RonD said:
Yes, you do need to drop the oil pan down a bit, 1/2inch, to remove timing chain cover.
Yes in the shop manual when they aren't paying for labor they would pull the engine.

The timing chain cover is part of the lower block when resealing the oil pan, which is why oil pan needs to be lowered and why timing chain cover needs to be in place when re-seating oil pan.

Just FYI, never heard of a 4.0l OHV engine needing a timing chain, mine is 300k+.

im with you there ron, my current 4.0 is 300k+ and its my wheeling rig, so it see's high rpms on a regular basis, no problems, or noises.

ive had several high mileage 250k+ ohv 4.0's without a head problem or timing chain. most just wait untill they rebuild the engine to change the chain. even then so its just a im there and its easier now than later thing.

something must be wrong if your on your third set of heads.

cp2295 · Jul 21, 2014

swynx said:
im with you there ron, my current 4.0 is 300k+ and its my wheeling rig, so it see's high rpms on a regular basis, no problems, or noises.

ive had several high mileage 250k+ ohv 4.0's without a head problem or timing chain. most just wait untill they rebuild the engine to change the chain. even then so its just a im there and its easier now than later thing.

something must be wrong if your on your third set of heads.

Maybe cooling system issues? If I was you id make sure the coolant hoses have good pressure, and everything is working properly in your cooling system. This engine has as much possibility of cracking heads as every other engine when run too hot (or when hot spots occur in the head), biggest thing that would cause that is cooling I would think. Someone correct me if I'm wrong please

WNGLDR · Jul 23, 2014

Now I'm starting to worry that I've blown a couple hundred bucks for nothing. I guess I'll look at it as cheap insurance on keeping the truck running. The issue with heads cracking is on the forward two cylinders right between the intake and exhaust valves. I'm guessing that I should probably start a new thread though since it's off the main topic?

Dazzlin' Dave · Jul 26, 2014

WNGLDR, I'm disabled too, took me 3 days to redo my intake gaskets! Kudos to ya for turnin your own wrenches!! Gotta love air tools! God bless the guy who invented them!!
Good luck to you man!!

WNGLDR · Jul 30, 2014

Dazzlin' Dave said:
WNGLDR, I'm disabled too, took me 3 days to redo my intake gaskets! Kudos to ya for turnin your own wrenches!! Gotta love air tools! God bless the guy who invented them!!
Good luck to you man!!

Thank you Dave. I've done most all my own work since I've owned my first car, I've got to be into the tens of thousands of dollars. I'm fairly mechanically inclined and was blessed to grow up around auto body and mechanical as my late Father owned his own shop. I recommend most people buy a shop manual and learn the basics, the video about the gal who filled her engine with water is a perfect example why. It takes me a lot longer than normal but I'm methodical and really enjoy it. Won't be able to for much longer though so I'll enjoy it while I can.

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