Upcoming Build, 87 4x4 Suggestions! Objections?

This upcoming summer I am planning a 2-3 month frame-up build with my 87 2.9L V6 Single Cab Short Bed Ranger. Wanted to throw out my imagined build and see if anyone had any suggestions or ideas to help in my planning.

Goal: Clean and built to last and function reliably on pavement and weekend medium duty off-roading to get to remote camping/dirt bike spots. I'm 70% street, 30% off-road every month so this is by no means a dedicated off-road truck.

Engine: Keeping the 2.9L V6 recently rebuilt. enough power for what I need. Maybe beef my powersteering up a bit? with those 35s it wouldnt hurt.

Transmission/Transfer Case: New rebuilt 5 speed manual to go in, new rebuilt transfer case to go in (new rear drive shaft..kinda sheered half the splines off...)

Rims/Tires: 15x10 rims 35x12.5 R15 Tires (Km2s are my favorite, we'll see if i can find a set of 5...)

Lift/Suspension: Existing 4inch? 6inch? skyjacker lift new shocks all around. will need to correct the camber on the TTB for the new wheels and tires

Axles/Difs/Hubs: Rebuild on both axles. Existing D35 TTB front, install a Ford 8.8 Rear both geared 4.10? for the 35s. most likely a selectable locker on the rear, don't want to waste much money on the weaker d35 but maybe a lunch box locker and be careful to not blow it up but doubt I would ever really need a locked front... right hub is shot, new heavy duty jeep/warn hub lockers. maybe d44 front knuckles?

Frame/Body: Frame repaint, undercoat. Cab inside black bedliner. exterior truck grey bedliner. truck bed black liner. bushwacker cut fender flares. Custom bumpers front and rear (rear with swingout tire and jerry can carrier)

Brainstorming on some custom racks and boxes but those are just details. So that is the rough general idea. Let me know what you guys think! The good and the bad lay it on me . Some Pics as it sits at the moment.

My only suggestion would be gears much deeper than 4.10s. My crawler was set up exactly like yours and it was not much fun to drive on the highway, let alone off the pavement. If I were you I would go with 5.13s, that is the lowest I am aware of for your axles... 35's are a LOT of tire for a 2.9 to move, you will not regret it.

I guess the D44 knuckle swap would not be something I'd advise either, you don't really need it. You also would lose the 5x4.5 bolt pattern in the front. The only advantage for most of us is the D44 lockouts are obviously better but if you're not destroying a ton of D35 hubs... don't bother.

Sounds like a good project.

35's are in the rock crawling size to me, not needed for your application, harder to brake/start and that much harder on the running gear and I agree with going with 5.13's if you do run 35's. I have got to travel at least an hour to get out to play, maybe your rig will be more local?

I have heard of bed liner producing a smell inside a vehicle. I'd check into that.

15x10 is a wide rim. I have a set, but running 36x13.5x15 IROCs. (I had a set of 35x14.5x15 Boggers but lost them in a fire over the summer). I run a set 15x8 and 35.12,5x15 BFG Km 2s on my Explorer and they work well. ...pic for attention...
15x8's.....

15x10's...

That wide of tire really isnt needed unless your airing down a long ways.

I also have to agree on gear choice. 35's are a lot of rubber to spin. I run 4:88's in my Explorer (4.0) and only 4.56's in my Ranger, but it has a built V-8. 5;13's may be a little deep, but the 2.9 isnt exactly a powerhouse (not running it down, just doesnt have the uummpf at times).

I have never had any issues with the stock steering, so it would be something I wouldnt really worry about, maybe new hoses and a new pump/seals if its giving you fits now.

I love my SWB Ranger, and think they have look all their own. pic of mine for reference.....

I lightly rub 31's on 3" of lift and stock bodywork... I think things would get extra crunchy with 35's.

Shran said:

My only suggestion would be gears much deeper than 4.10s. My crawler was set up exactly like yours and it was not much fun to drive on the highway, let alone off the pavement. If I were you I would go with 5.13s, that is the lowest I am aware of for your axles... 35's are a LOT of tire for a 2.9 to move, you will not regret it.

I guess the D44 knuckle swap would not be something I'd advise either, you don't really need it. You also would lose the 5x4.5 bolt pattern in the front. The only advantage for most of us is the D44 lockouts are obviously better but if you're not destroying a ton of D35 hubs... don't bother.

Click to expand...

Blown said:

Sounds like a good project.

35's are in the rock crawling size to me, not needed for your application, harder to brake/start and that much harder on the running gear and I agree with going with 5.13's if you do run 35's. I have got to travel at least an hour to get out to play, maybe your rig will be more local?

I have heard of bed liner producing a smell inside a vehicle. I'd check into that.

Click to expand...

Thank you guys Shran an Blown for the suggestions, so a pretty solid consensus on 5.13 gears for the 2.9L. What kind of speed should i expect on highway? Trying to keep it at least a mid rpm 55mph if i can help it. Also What kind of abuse do you guys think merits beefing up the D35? I do the occasional crawling accross smaller granite boulders on creek beds and smaller river crossings (maybe a fallen tree trunk once). I once got hung up on my rear dif on 31s, and i cant lie, the look of the 35s makes me (bought it with 35s on it) Thanks for the bedliner tip as well.

BLOODBANE said:

15x10 is a wide rim. I have a set, but running 36x13.5x15 IROCs. (I had a set of 35x14.5x15 Boggers but lost them in a fire over the summer). I run a set 15x8 and 35.12,5x15 BFG Km 2s on my Explorer and they work well. ...pic for attention...
15x8's.....
That wide of tire really isnt needed unless your airing down a long ways.

I also have to agree on gear choice. 35's are a lot of rubber to spin. I run 4:88's in my Explorer (4.0) and only 4.56's in my Ranger, but it has a built V-8. 5;13's may be a little deep, but the 2.9 isnt exactly a powerhouse (not running it down, just doesnt have the uummpf at times).

I have never had any issues with the stock steering, so it would be something I wouldnt really worry about, maybe new hoses and a new pump/seals if its giving you fits now.

I love my SWB Ranger, and think they have look all their own. pic of mine for reference.....

Click to expand...

Yea without doing any math the 5.13s sound deep, but if it gets me reliable power and at least 55 on the freeway I'm happy. I realize its hard to balance the off road and pavement use but one can try! I have a set of 4 15x8s and prefer it over the 10wides, but I got such a good deal on a set of 5 of 15x10s that I couldn't pass it up (wanted a matching spare for the tire carrier). Yea the steerings a bit gone. Just didn't want to rebuild it to find it going out quick again, but I wont worry too much about it then and just do a rebuild thanks! loving those trucks, and the Km2s got me jealous

85_Ranger4x4 said:

I lightly rub 31's on 3" of lift and stock bodywork... I think things would get extra crunchy with 35's.

Click to expand...

Yea, I bought the truck with 15x8 rims and 35x12.5 Tires, had a decent amount of rub (mostly the front corner of the fender) im hoping the bushwacker cutout flares will take care of that. Will have to do some testing with the new 15x10 with 35 combo though (the alu rims in the pics are the new mickey thompson 15x10s). Im pretty sure Its the 6" skyjacker, but wasnt able to figure it out for sure...

this pic is 8 wide rims on the 35s when i bought it a year ago

Aldo94 said:

Yea, I bought the truck with 15x8 rims and 35x12.5 Tires, had a decent amount of rub (mostly the front corner of the fender) im hoping the bushwacker cutout flares will take care of that. Will have to do some testing with the new 15x10 with 35 combo though (the alu rims in the pics are the new mickey thompson 15x10s). Im pretty sure Its the 6" skyjacker, but wasnt able to figure it out for sure...

this pic is 8 wide rims on the 35s when i bought it a year ago

Click to expand...

Odd, mine rubs on the rear.

Anyway on my D35 I did the C-Clip eliminator thing for the PS (so you don't have to pull the diff to replace the axleshaft u-joints and I went with the heavier u-joints, I like 760X or something like that. Both upgrades are in the tech library.

Hubs are $10/pair at u-pull-it so I nab as many as I can find, I have three complete pairs of warns so far.

I don't figure on beating mine hard but I was there and they are pretty simple upgrades. Don't have it in the truck yet... so they are holding up well.

85_Ranger4x4 said:

Odd, mine rubs on the rear.

Anyway on my D35 I did the C-Clip eliminator thing for the PS (so you don't have to pull the diff to replace the axleshaft u-joints and I went with the heavier u-joints, I like 760X or something like that. Both upgrades are in the tech library.

Hubs are $10/pair at u-pull-it so I nab as many as I can find, I have three complete pairs of warns so far.

I don't figure on beating mine hard but I was there and they are pretty simple upgrades. Don't have it in the truck yet... so they are holding up well.

Click to expand...

So rear rub on fender with 8.8 and disks? Which model did you pull it from? If i understand correctly the narrower 8.8 comes out of the 90-92 rangers? Maybe the specific tire, lift, leaf combo just barely got me by in the rear. Mine still has the 7.5 in the rear and D35 front. Bought it with the front driveshaft missing and the 4 low and right hub destroyed (gee i wonder why..) Those all sound like they wouldn't hurt, easy additions especially while its all apart for rebuild ill have to look into those.

Aldo94 said:

So rear rub on fender with 8.8 and disks? Which model did you pull it from? If i understand correctly the narrower 8.8 comes out of the 90-92 rangers? Maybe the specific tire, lift, leaf combo just barely got me by in the rear. Mine still has the 7.5 in the rear and D35 front. Bought it with the front driveshaft missing and the 4 low and right hub destroyed (gee i wonder why..) Those all sound like they wouldn't hurt, easy additions especially while its all apart for rebuild ill have to look into those.

Click to expand...

Rear of the front, sorry. Never had a problem with the rear wheels.

Are you sure you have a D35 in the front? Stock would be the D28. Nothing really wrong with the D35, D28 yeah... not much there to work with.

Here is some reading for you:

http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/index-axles.shtml

85_Ranger4x4 said:

Rear of the front, sorry. Never had a problem with the rear wheels.

Are you sure you have a D35 in the front? Stock would be the D28. Nothing really wrong with the D35, D28 yeah... not much there to work with.

Here is some reading for you:

http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/index-axles.shtml

Click to expand...

Ok makes a lot more sense then! Was scratching my head on that one. That corner is bent back on my fender so it most likely was rubbing there at one point i think you're right. Those tires had almost no tread on it at the time too. I was going to say the only type of rub i get from the rear is the 35s inner sidewall against the frame at times when go over a gnarly bumb hard.. I was just as surprised as you but its a true D35 TTB front and rear 7.5. Didn't realize it until half a year after buying the truck and reading the tech page on here. I'm guessing someone before me did the front swap and ran 4 low with dif gears not matching and wrecked the 4 low front DS and hub?. Still need to count the teeth to confirm those suspicions though.

I only run a 4" suspension lift, but have a 2" BL (to clear the C-6). I run the Glasworks Unlimited fiberglass flares on the front. 3" flare/3" cut out. On the rear used the sawsall method. Im thinking of making a flatbed for it, as soon as insurance funds come in. I lost my wire feed in the fire that took my boggers (barn fire). This kept the truck fairly low CG. It does seem to work well for me. I could probably go to 37's maybe 38's (huge tire though, my wifes CJ has 38's), but I feel Im pushing the ability of the D35 as it is. Someday when I can afford some 60's I will link it and run 40's.

You should easily be able to do 55mph or better with 5.13s, and it's going to make your clutch last a lot longer. I still have 4.10s in mine but the V8 and super low 1st gear make up for it. I had to ride the clutch all the time to make it move from a stop when I had the 2.9 in it... just sucked overall.

When I had 33's and a 6" Skyjacker lift, the tires rubbed in the front on the back and front of the inner plastic wheel well. Same thing when those tires, wheels and lift when on my B2. I cut about 3" out of the front fenders to clear 35's on the Ranger. I have always had a flatbed on it so the rear was never an issue.

BLOODBANE said:

I only run a 4" suspension lift, but have a 2" BL (to clear the C-6). I run the Glasworks Unlimited fiberglass flares on the front. 3" flare/3" cut out. On the rear used the sawsall method. Im thinking of making a flatbed for it, as soon as insurance funds come in. I lost my wire feed in the fire that took my boggers (barn fire). This kept the truck fairly low CG. It does seem to work well for me. I could probably go to 37's maybe 38's (huge tire though, my wifes CJ has 38's), but I feel Im pushing the ability of the D35 as it is. Someday when I can afford some 60's I will link it and run 40's.

Click to expand...

Hell if you got enough air in those tires ill bet you could float accross river crossings! What kind of use do you put those trucks to? One of my rich neighbors has shiny 40s on his decked out F350..Pavement pounder unfortunately..I shed a tear for the dirt starved truck every time I pass it

In the pic its on Pismo beach, believe its the first time its gone "off-road"

Shran said:

You should easily be able to do 55mph or better with 5.13s, and it's going to make your clutch last a lot longer. I still have 4.10s in mine but the V8 and super low 1st gear make up for it. I had to ride the clutch all the time to make it move from a stop when I had the 2.9 in it... just sucked overall.

When I had 33's and a 6" Skyjacker lift, the tires rubbed in the front on the back and front of the inner plastic wheel well. Same thing when those tires, wheels and lift when on my B2. I cut about 3" out of the front fenders to clear 35's on the Ranger. I have always had a flatbed on it so the rear was never an issue.

Click to expand...

5.13 gears is decided then. My old vw bug cruised at 55 so im used to goin slow. Since ill have everything ripped out all for rebuild, is the bigger 4.0 clutch swap something worthwhile regardless of the 5.13 gears? Sounded like a pretty simple swap. Yea I'm hoping the cut out Bushwacker fenders will help with the 35s, we'll have to see when I get there.

Still need to figure out how much lift my skyjacker has...But I'm pretty sure its the 6"...

That pic was when they were new. I dont get out as much now (Im on dialysis, so fatigue gets me pretty good). This is what I used to use it for quite a bit....

BLOODBANE said:

That pic was when they were new. I dont get out as much now (Im on dialysis, so fatigue gets me pretty good). This is what I used to use it for quite a bit....

Click to expand...

So the crawling end of the spectrum. Lovin the pics. Sorry to hear it, that's never a fun time. Did you do anything special with that D35 and the front driveshaft at all?