Is my water pump bad???

Shran · Feb 9, 2010

88_Eddie said:
^
sweet!!!! guess i'm gonna have to figure something else out then. nothing has changed, plug wires are good, thermostat is back in and isnt leaking anymore. any ideas where to go next? dont really have the dough to take it to my shop.

again, here's what is happening now:
cranks right up, RPM's up around 1500-2000 and then drops suddenly to 800 RPM's and the check engine light comes on. it will drive just fine while it's doing this, just idles really low.

88_Eddie said:
oh yes, it is frustrating. my mpg was shot before this crap started happening. i do have some good news though, my radiator now has pressure, so the water pump may have actually been no good, so i'm happy about that....just pissed that it wasnt causing this other problem. think its time for a new thread.

plus, to make matters even worse, my DD exploder needs a new muffler, new shocks, state inspection and my steering is acting up. this has started out an awful week.

O'Reilly has a code reader that will work. I have used it before. Other parts stores may also have one - those are just the only two stores here that do.

I think you are chasing multiple issues here. So your radiator is holding pressure, and it's heating evenly? Do you have a working temp gauge yet, and if so, what does it read? If you don't have one, that needs to be your NEXT step.

Get your codes read after that.

Idle speed spec, IIRC, is 800 RPM with a manual trans and 850 RPM for an automatic. I don't have a reference book in front of me, that is just off the top of my head so it may not be exact, but it is very close. In any case 800 RPM at idle seems very normal. If it drops a lot lower than that or is erratic then I would suspect a problem. It is normal for Ford vehicles to idle a little high when first started - all of mine do the same thing yours does. It drops down after a bit.

Your fuel mileage issue could be several things. Most likely would be fuel pressure regulator, coolant temp sensor, or oxygen sensor. But before you go replacing parts get your codes read.

88_Eddie · Feb 9, 2010

Shran said:
O'Reilly has a code reader that will work. I have used it before. Other parts stores may also have one - those are just the only two stores here that do.

I think you are chasing multiple issues here. So your radiator is holding pressure, and it's heating evenly? Do you have a working temp gauge yet, and if so, what does it read? If you don't have one, that needs to be your NEXT step.

Get your codes read after that.

Idle speed spec, IIRC, is 800 RPM with a manual trans and 850 RPM for an automatic. I don't have a reference book in front of me, that is just off the top of my head so it may not be exact, but it is very close. In any case 800 RPM at idle seems very normal. If it drops a lot lower than that or is erratic then I would suspect a problem. It is normal for Ford vehicles to idle a little high when first started - all of mine do the same thing yours does. It drops down after a bit.

Your fuel mileage issue could be several things. Most likely would be fuel pressure regulator, coolant temp sensor, or oxygen sensor. But before you go replacing parts get your codes read.

i'll have to find an o'reilly around here. i checked with autozone yesterday and they can only do 96 and newer. they also have one you can buy, and it was over $100.....not worth it. napa doesnt read codes for any year/model.

yes, both my BII and exploder jump up in RPM's when first started and then go back down when idle.......always have. my BII is a manual and it is usually between 900-1000, same with my exploder except its an auto.

the mpg's really arent a concern for me right now, i drive this thing around town ONLY and i'd rather spend my time and money fixing other stuff. plus, i plan on regearing and swapping in a D35 by this summer (provided I can find a frickin job soon)

thanks for the input shran....i'll post results as soon as it stops raining and i can work on it

88_Eddie · Feb 10, 2010

ok, i replaced the coolant temp sensor today but my temp gauge is still dead. any ideas now? :bawling:

the check engine light is still on too, it's still goes up really high in RPM's and then after a couple seconds it drops down to 800 and stays between 800-900 RPM's.

i'm gonna drive it over to o'reilly as soon as i get a chance, it's wayyyyyy across town though, so i'm kinda worried to unless i know someone will be able to come get me.

good news tho, had a job interview today and i'm pretty sure i'm gonna get it, i'll finally be able to get some stuff done to the BII.........supposing i get this fixed

Shran · Feb 10, 2010

It is not the coolant temp sensor (ECT) that makes your gauge work, it is the coolant temp sender. It is located on the front of the intake manifold and has only one wire run to it. The ECT is also located in that area but has a larger plug and at least two wires.

Replacing the sender may or may not work - you can try it - but the gauge or wiring is often bad as well and they are also not very accurate. Only way to know your coolant temp for certain is an aftermarket gauge.

88_Eddie · Feb 10, 2010

Shran said:
It is not the coolant temp sensor (ECT) that makes your gauge work, it is the coolant temp sender. It is located on the front of the intake manifold and has only one wire run to it. The ECT is also located in that area but has a larger plug and at least two wires.

Replacing the sender may or may not work - you can try it - but the gauge or wiring is often bad as well and they are also not very accurate. Only way to know your coolant temp for certain is an aftermarket gauge.

gotcha, i'll take a look at the wiring tomorrow and then go price some gauges. i know which is which, the ECT has 2 wires and the sender has one wire. before i do that i'm gonna get the check engine light taken care of. the engine isnt overheating, so i'm gonna put this coolant issue on the back burner for now.

Shran · Feb 10, 2010

Cool, good deal.

Regarding gauges... I would advise that you stay away from Equus brand. They are usually sold at parts stores. I have had at least four of that brand temperature gauge just stop working... the sensor breaks off from the hose and floats around the bung it's screwed into. They are just shitty quality.

88_Eddie · Feb 10, 2010

Shran said:
Cool, good deal.

Regarding gauges... I would advise that you stay away from Equus brand. They are usually sold at parts stores. I have had at least four of that brand temperature gauge just stop working... the sensor breaks off from the hose and floats around the bung it's screwed into. They are just shitty quality.

i'll def keep that in mind....i looked on jc whitney and found a bunch, i'll probably spend about $50-$60 at most on this thing.......i'd much rather be buying a manual t-case or a D35

again, THANKS for the help

88_Eddie · Feb 11, 2010

well POOP....none of the stores around here can read my computer, not even o'reillys. pep boys said they could do it, but it would be more like a diagnostic.....i'm thinking that they are thinking i dont know shit about cars (which is somewhat true) and they wanna charge me a bunch of money to "diagnose" the problem and then wanna fix it - F them. :thefinger:

guess i'll have to take it to my shadytree guys down the road.

88_Eddie · Feb 14, 2010

ANOTHER UPDATE:

well i've been screwing with the bronco over the weekend since i'm taking it to my shadytree guy tomorrow and wanted to be able to tell him what i'd find so as to cut down on his diagnosis time.

WHAT I'VE FOUND:

you can barely see it in the pic but there is a little bit of water on the oil cap and in the next pic, there is some in the valve cover as well. i checked the oil on the dipstick, after it had been running and after it sat for a while, and there is no milk on it, just the cap and valve cover.

ALSO, the radiator does have a little bit of pressure after you've driven it around a bit, but not alot. there's a little bit of white smoke when it's idling and even more comes out when you rev it. i'm assuming thats the coolant cooking off.

whats happening? is the coolant leakin through the head gasket? cracked head?

Is my water pump bad???

Shran

Junk Collector

88_Eddie

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88_Eddie

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Shran

Junk Collector

88_Eddie

Well-Known Member

Shran

Junk Collector

88_Eddie

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88_Eddie

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88_Eddie

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