2001 Ranger Explorer Disc Brake Swap Questions...again..

Ok, I searched, and I found alot of good info on swapping a Disc Brake Explorer axle into my truck to lower it... Problem is I still have some questions so...hear we go...I think we all can agree my truck needs an altitude adjustment.....



Width, I have seen a couple different width issues, that the Explorer is wider. Since I am going with later model Mustang Wheels with positive offset... is it wide enough to eliminate the need for spacers/adapters? What Gen Mustang wheels work the best the newest ones or the ones before? (I think '05 is the change), I will have a set of both by the time I do the axle swap probably. heh..

Pinion Angle. Do I need to reweld the perches at all to get the right pinion angle since the rear end is now in a Ranger and not an Explorer.

Bolt-in??? Is this a bolt in for my 2001 XLT ExtCab, or do I need to do some drive shaft mods or find other drive shafts from something else?

My poor little 2.3l...yeah, the current rear end is 4.10....should I try to go to the 3.73??? I think it would drive a bit better for my own driving style, usually I am out of 1st gear alot sooner than I want to be...maybe I just need to get used to the 2.3 again(used to have a 91 many years ago).

The brakes...I have seen where the Ebrake is an issue, I have seen a few threads, but most were at least a few years old, has a GOOD solution been come up with? I consider an Ebrake a must with a manual transmission. Also, is the valve proportioning *that* different than the stock drums, or do I need to get an adjustable valve, or (really dont want to), swap to an Explorer master?

The shocks....I read in one place that I can use the stock Explorer mounts for the frame, but swapping sides or something??? The explanation was a little bit fuzzy. If I have to weld...its possible, but I would prefer just to do a full bolt in...prefer....

I have read that depending on my stock suspension, that this will drop me 4-5 inches...pretty close to needing a notch...something I dont want to do yet...yet. If I can just cut down the bumpstops(or remove them..lol)..I will be happy. Wont be carrying too many loads with this truck.

So what is a good match for the front? Can I get away with just DJM springs and shocks, or do I need to go with the full a-arm kit. DJM seems pretty popular, any thoughts on the other companies that I have seen floating around out there?

Finally....is there anything I am forgetting(besides matching up the brake lines...yeah just remembered that)? Anyone that has done this swap on a similar truck to mine and has pictures and or suggestions...would be greatly appreciated... Not new to lowriders, but new to lowering Rangers.

If I need to just go back to the forum and search some more, just let me know...I hate to be THIS guy...FNG...lol...asking questions that have been asked so many times, but just looking for some updated information...

THANKS!!!

Nathan

OH....knew I forgot something else, what about a rear sway bar? Any particular years or mods needed to get them done? Thanks.....

The Explorer axle should only be about .75 inches wider per side than your current setup. With 4-5 inches of drop, you won't be tucking tires, so it's really not an issue.

I'd run the pre 05 Mustang wheels as they'll work without a spacer

The explorer axle is designed to use both shocks on the rear. The Ranger uses one in front and one behind the axle. You can either weld shock tabs onto the Explorer axle, or use the Explorer shock mounting plates. If you use the plates, you need 2 passenger side (if my memory is correct) and you just flip one 180 degrees so that it will face forward.

No notch will be needed at just 4-5" of drop, but cutting the bump stops will help the ride a bunch.

Get the Control arms and springs for the front if you want it to sit level-ish. Doing just springs in the front will almost certainly result in the front sitting higher than the rear unless you do something funky with tire sizes.

You mention having a 2.3, but the truck in your pic is too new to have a Lima 2.3, and I've never seen a Duratec 2.3 in an extended cab truck. You sure it's a 2.3?

stmitch said:

You mention having a 2.3, but the truck in your pic is too new to have a Lima 2.3, and I've never seen a Duratec 2.3 in an extended cab truck. You sure it's a 2.3?

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Thanks for the info!!! I had seen several of you other posts, but like I said, I wasnt sure any new info had come to light, or if other "tricks" had been discovered.

...and yes I do have the 2.3...from what I understand the 2001 was a split year, some trucks had the Lima some had the Duratec. I wasnt sure at first myself, but everything from the title, to the decoded vin says its a 2.3...So it could be either, I have been looking for stock pics of both, but since my truck is a bit of an oddball....I havent seen anything for sure. SMH...lots of "dead" picture links around....

after looking around a bit, they did make some extended cab Duratec trucks. They're not very common though. Pretty cool!

You can just pop the hood and look to see if yours is a Duratec 2.3 or Lima 2.5. The Duratec is a DOHC engine, so it's got a valve cover that's about a foot wide. It also has a black plastic intake manifold, and should say "2.3L 16 valve" on the throttle body cover.

Limas had aluminum intake manifolds and a much narrower valve cover since they're a SOHC design.

stmitch said:

after looking around a bit, they did make some extended cab Duratec trucks. They're not very common though. Pretty cool!

You can just pop the hood and look to see if yours is a Duratec 2.3 or Lima 2.5. The Duratec is a DOHC engine, so it's got a valve cover that's about a foot wide. It also has a black plastic intake manifold, and should say "2.3L 16 valve" on the throttle body cover.

Limas had aluminum intake manifolds and a much narrower valve cover since they're a SOHC design.

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I have popped the hood on the truck once since I got, just to check fluids..lol. It was owned last by a head mechanic at a dealership...so I am fairly confident in it...same dealership it was bought from and serviced at...so I have ALL the records, and even the window sticker...lol. Will have to look next time I am out there...I am assuming the Duratec is better? I have heard both sides during alot of reading...my dad's old 91 had around 200k miles and the motor was still strong, this one has 205k miles and runs strong, so...no complaints...yet...lol. Thanks for the info though...I always like to get a second or third opinion on "internet facts"...lol... Cant wait to get this thing lowered...

Since I got your attention, do you know if these will bolt up direct?



I have a pair of 1" adapters(the other pair went on the front of my dad's 91 when I put some 05+ wheels on it...the front hubs didnt clear, but the back did...just needed to get good rubber on it to pass safety). But that truck is gone, long sad story....I figured I could used the pair I didnt use in the back of the '91 for the front of this '01 with these wheels, then get from what I can find is either another pair of 1" or 1.5" adapters for the back.... They should clear the Explorer discs once I swap over to that right? Thanks!!!

I prefer the Duratec, but there's nothing wrong with the Limas. They're both good engines. The Duratec does make more power and torque while getting better fuel economy though. It's lighter too, which might mean your front end doesn't settle quite as much when you lower it.

As for those wheels, they're common on Rangers. You might need a small spacer to clear the hub in the front, but I don't have any personal experience with that style, so I can't say for sure.

stmitch said:

I prefer the Duratec, but there's nothing wrong with the Limas. They're both good engines. The Duratec does make more power and torque while getting better fuel economy though. It's lighter too, which might mean your front end doesn't settle quite as much when you lower it.

As for those wheels, they're common on Rangers. You might need a small spacer to clear the hub in the front, but I don't have any personal experience with that style, so I can't say for sure.

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Thanks...yeah...I knew I wasnt doing anything spectacular with those Stang wheels, but for $100 with decent tires...cant really complain...better than the stock rusting steels...but just dying for an altitude adjustment. Looking at the DJM kits and just cant pull the trigger for close to a grand worth of parts until I make sure this truck is reliable...even then....gonna be a hard sell to the wife...might have to sell some stuff...lol...

I did check, and yep its a Duratec...it has around 200k miles on it, but I have all the maintenance records with it...(I'm friends with the owner of the small town Ford Dealership....where I bought it from their Head Mechanic ...I feel pretty confident, though it did just throw a check engine light. My cheapo elm327 bluetooth to android "scanner" failed to connect, so I gotta go to Autozone...Have an older Snap On scanner from my FIL, but it uses cartridges, and he was GM for 40 years...no Ford...lol...)..so I guess I start need to researching all I can about that motor. I had eventually thought, dreamed, confused myself..lol, with putting a turbo on it...but that is WAY down the road.

Thanks again...here I go down the Ranger rabbit hole...lol...

Here's my 2¢ on the wheels/Explorer axle:

Stock backspacing is 6mm (1/4"); backspacing on those Mustang wheels is 30mm (1-1/8"); so 1" spacers on front put track at almost same width as stock (which is good for bearings/steering/fender interference, etc, etc) and they allow the hub cap to install without interference on the splindle, so I prefer thicker front spacers.

The Explorer rear is 1" wider than Ranger which puts you in no-man's land. 1/2" spacers are too thick for stock studs/too thin to have their own studs; 1" spacers put rear wheels out a lot. I bit the bullet and bought longer studs.

When you install the Explorer rear axle, you could install longer rear shackles, to only get a 2" drop. Then you can just do the DJM spring kit up front. That puts the price tag at only 1/2 of the whole DJM kit. (Might be easier sell, and you can always do the a-arms/restore the stock shackles later).

My Explorer 8.8 swap was a bolt in (more/less - there was some adjusting with a BFH to swap in the longer shackles - rusty old bolts didn't want to come out). It has the 2 passenger side Explorer shock mounts. The sway bar mounts needed to be moved from the Ranger's axle to the Explorer if I remember correct - aka ground off, welded on. I drilled new holes in the frame 2" up for the rear sway bar, as it was contacting the rear axle sensor otherwise. (I only did 2" drop; I would need kidney belt to drive on roads here after 4-5" drop). I used the Explorer proportioning valve...

I solved the e-brake by figuring out the exact length of cable I needed, then taking it to a garage door shop and having them swage a new end on at the correct location.

don4331 said:

Here's my 2¢ on the wheels/Explorer axle:

Stock backspacing is 6mm (1/4"); backspacing on those Mustang wheels is 30mm (1-1/8"); so 1" spacers on front put track at almost same width as stock (which is good for bearings/steering/fender interference, etc, etc) and they allow the hub cap to install without interference on the splindle, so I prefer thicker front spacers.

The Explorer rear is 1" wider than Ranger which puts you in no-man's land. 1/2" spacers are too thick for stock studs/too thin to have their own studs; 1" spacers put rear wheels out a lot. I bit the bullet and bought longer studs.

When you install the Explorer rear axle, you could install longer rear shackles, to only get a 2" drop. Then you can just do the DJM spring kit up front. That puts the price tag at only 1/2 of the whole DJM kit. (Might be easier sell, and you can always do the a-arms/restore the stock shackles later).

My Explorer 8.8 swap was a bolt in (more/less - there was some adjusting with a BFH to swap in the longer shackles - rusty old bolts didn't want to come out). It has the 2 passenger side Explorer shock mounts. The sway bar mounts needed to be moved from the Ranger's axle to the Explorer if I remember correct - aka ground off, welded on. I drilled new holes in the frame 2" up for the rear sway bar, as it was contacting the rear axle sensor otherwise. (I only did 2" drop; I would need kidney belt to drive on roads here after 4-5" drop). I used the Explorer proportioning valve...

I solved the e-brake by figuring out the exact length of cable I needed, then taking it to a garage door shop and having them swage a new end on at the correct location.

Click to expand...

Thanks a ton on the info...some reason I didnt get notified via email. Yeah...I was kinda afraid of what was said about the rear spacing being a bit goofy....I was hoping to go with the newer wheels, just to get to a 17" Mustang wheel that I like. I am looking at others...want to stay Ford/Mazda if possible. Im weird like that, but will consider anything that fits for the right price.

Like I said I have a set of 1" on hand from my old truck, figured I would use them for some "cheap" 16" "pre 05 wheels that I have been waiting on(seller is stalling...but has alot going on in their life)...I am in no real big hurry, but still..those steels just, ugh, yeah, I know how much a new set of "shoes" can change the look.

Now I dont have a garage, but do have the tools, and have made some friends that are a fairly long drive for me to do the work...but friends are friends...lol... Still looking hard at biting the bullet and just getting the FULL DJM kit...including the shocks and everything. Still researching the right part number....I take it none of them sell them with new rear ubolts? I never reuse old ones...I know plenty people do, but they are torque to yield parts and just cheap insurance(usually cheap) that make me feel better about doing all the work. Might as well spring for the extra $20-30 bucks when spending over a grand(probably) for the whole thing.

Anyway...I am still wondering what SWAYBAR I should use, stock Explorer that will hopefully come from the same donor(my friends have a possible donor where they are at).

So I need to know that, AND I need to know the brake line hookups...I know I should research and find it on my own, but I always like to have someone that has already done it tell me what they had to do to get something to work. Nothing better than first hand experience.

Especially since I am going to make a several hour drive...possibly stay the night in a motel....and have this all done in a day or maybe two(optimistic thinking I know...lol...) I will have all the parts I need, probably in duplicate..lol, from the front camber cams(if they dont have them) to extra bolts and stuff I can get from the local junkyard.

I just wish I was twenty years younger...I know I could get this done in a weekend by myself...lol, but age has caught up with me. AND this is alot more involved than just cranking down some torsion bars and throwing in some blocks....so yeah...need some "youth" to help out...will probably be removing bed if I do the mini cnotch....probably should do it anyway..but I will let them decide. They are young, but smart(doing a fairly custom V8 swap into an Isuzu pup)...so yeah..been following it for a while. Plus they have the tools I dont anymore, like welding...

Anyway..kinda rambling here, but hey its my "dumb new guy post"...lol. Hopefully I can get all the answers I need while I STILL search for them myself here and whereever I can.

Thanks again everyone,

Nathan...