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'86 Ranger Alternator Wiring


85_Ranger4x4

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It is supposed to be for an '86 but the wiring diagram matches up with what I have. The green and yellow do the same things on my '97 Explorer alternator that they did on this one, the two black wires were connected to each other and when on in the truck.

While looking for something else I found the one that came with my '87 302 and it had the same one, with the one white wire hanging off into space just like mine.
 
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Mark_88

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If the white wire doesn't have a connector on it and a space for the connector on the body of the alternator then it likely functions the same way as the 88...it should eventually end up in a similar type connector...that I'm almost certain now is a relay...that allows some function to turn on or off and that allows something else to function...if that makes sense.

I didn't check the wires that actually come out of that relay to see where they go...but probably typical of the relays it would be at least two of them dedicated to powering it from the battery and the other two would run to the other device that this provides power to...but now I'm curious...now I will need to have another look to see what that relay leads to...

Later today...
 

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Found my Haynes, I don't see the white wire even mentioned.
 
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Mark_88

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Yes, and that goes up to 88. I can see the bl/o wires coming out and becoming one. I haven't gotten to the relay yet but I am going out shortly...we had some sunshine but it has decided to go into hiding...at least it is still above 0...

My Haynes has the same diagram so not much point checking that...unless the 2.0 has a different diagram...
 

85_Ranger4x4

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I didn't check around much, that page doesn't cover much as far as engine applications. Like a one size fits all.

And to that end I wonder if they don't just sell an alternator for say a '89 2.9 and say it is the same as an '86 but you just don't bother with the one wire. I didn't think to look at other years.
 

Mark_88

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I pulled the harness out of the bin again and had another look at the relay. It appears to be wired directly to power so it is running off the battery...but it became a jumbled oily mess and I was reluctant to try to follow it further...it may actually go into the Idle Control Module but it was really windy down the side of the house...almost blew me over a few times...

Also checked the Haynes for the 2.0 power distribution but came up with nothing...imight try the on-line manual...it can surprise me sometimes...lol
 

85_Ranger4x4

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Thanks a lot for your help on this, I had it running for the first time Friday night. I didn't have much draw on the system (just the piddly point ignition) but the ammeter was tad over the right. :yahoo:

Never did hook the white wire to anything.

It is in the barn for the winter now, we will see how it likes it when I hook the lights up next spring.
 

Mark_88

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Good to hear...and glad I can help...

There's more...lol...

I found a 2.0 wire diagram and was able to download it..and it actually shows the white/blk wire going into a relay...that controls...of all things...the CHOKE!

So...you don't need to actually hook it up if you are using a manual choke...so cool...another mystery solved...

When using the on-line manual punch in the 1988 model year and select the 2.0 engine...under the wiring diagrams there is a TON of diagrams for 1983 right up to 1990

:yahoo:
 

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85_Ranger4x4

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That would have been good to know like 15 years ago. :icon_rofl:

Yeah, mechanical choke on my 1950 tractor. So mechanical you pull a solid wire that goes to the carb, not even a cable.
 

Mark_88

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That would have been good to know like 15 years ago. :icon_rofl:

Yeah, mechanical choke on my 1950 tractor. So mechanical you pull a solid wire that goes to the carb, not even a cable.
:icon_rofl: Yes, I would have to agree...when I needed these diagrams I ran around everywhere, finally bought a Haynes because I heard they had them only to find what we have there is not applicable...

But we got by somehow...and I'm kinda glad Canada has such strict gun laws because I was tempted to shoot the engine a few times...and probably would have hurt myself with the ricochet...
 

85_Ranger4x4

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You might say my 2.8 was shot when I got it. :icon_rofl:

When the PO rewired my truck he had the choke wire stuffed into the fuse panel behind the fuse. Had I known that that was what that wire was for it would have been a simple install right there.

Wonder if it is a full 12v or if it knocks it down some... my 6v dizzy might like that.
 

85_Ranger4x4

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After a pretty extensive detour on the project I am getting back to how I want to wire the thing. It hit me today; "hey, I thought we had wiring diagrams somewhere in the tech library?" Sure enough we do!

.
Finally got the thing together more or less for good and the more I run it the more I notice stuff building up on top of the battery. I put my voltmeter on it and it is running around 15.7V at any RPM and any combo of lights... so something ain't right.

I searched and found this thread:

http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=115680

Post #3 stuck out at me, I hadn't noticed that resister there.

Does it apply to what I am doing? I just have a generic 60a ammeter, no light.
 
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Mark_88

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Jim fixed his by grounding it so it might be worth a shot to run a ground wire to see if it stops overcharging. I always thought they were grounded by the bracket...

If that doesn't help...maybe the voltage regulator is shot...

Do you have a place that can test the alternator and regulator?
 

85_Ranger4x4

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Yeah, do it at work.

Pulled the Motorcraft alternator off. Pieced together a Delco (like most tractors use), ran a nice smooth 14.5v on the test stand at work. Stuck it on and changed the wiring around a little for it to work.

No change, same thing.

What the heck? Put my month old digital multi-meter aside and broke out my old analog meter... nice 14.5V.

Sooo, that was fun.
 

Mark_88

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lol...I fried my old DMM somehow so I bought a new one just before I sold my truck. I was using it the other day to test a fan on my fridge that I suspected was blown...it told me the fan was fried but on a hunch I put it back in and plugged in the fridge and the fan was working fine...

I guess I get what I pay for...the last one was on sale for $20...
 

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