1994 ranger dana 35

thcscubajohn · Jul 11, 2016

I have a stock 94 ranger 4.0 4x4 and I want to put a 4 inch lift along with 17 inch wheels with oversized tires and lockers front and rear I want to know if this would be a bad idea because of the Dana 35 and how expensive installing a Dana 44 would be

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Captain Ledd · Jul 11, 2016

First things first, we need a little more info.

How big are the oversized tires? 33"? 43"? 53"?

Are you changing the gearing?

How hard do you plan on beating this truck?

Expected type of terrain? uses?

Lockers, tires with new rims and lifts are rather expensive. The cost of a dana 44 is somewhat unique because there's a bunch of ways to go about installing/procuring one. Are you sourcing one from a junkyard or buying new from somewhere like Dynatrac? Some people can pull off a swap for a few hundred bucks, or you can spend thousands.

The Dana 35 isn't a bad axle, but it has it's limitations. The u-joints are the same size as a 44 (I believe), and usually those are what pop first apart from the hubs. Stronger hubs are available from Warn (see tech library).

85_Ranger4x4 · Jul 11, 2016

Captain Ledd said:
The Dana 35 isn't a bad axle, but it has it's limitations. The u-joints are the same size as a 44 (I believe), and usually those are what pop first apart from the hubs. Stronger hubs are available from Warn (see tech library).

The crosses are the same size as a 44 but Ford put cheaper crosses in it at the factory.

By now no matter what your plans are for the truck it probablly needs new crosses anyway and no matter what your plans are for the truck if you are going to do that I would put in the 760's.

thcscubajohn · Jul 11, 2016

33" with the 17" rims and stock 235 75 highway tires on the stock rims and keep the 17s in the bed this is and will remain my everyday truck It will probably only see moderate terrain but I would like it to be extreme terrain capable eventually I'm going to upgrade all the internal engine, Trans, and tf case parts to pump out 3-4 hundred horses & tourqe with a 6300 redline at this point I realize that I would need to also probably get rid of the 35 and go to what I don't know but I'm not there yet this is way down the line and is likely to run 20-30k

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AzLizard · Jul 12, 2016

I had conserns about running d35 in my explorer with 33-35s untill chating with BloodBane also a member here.
He has a v8 Ranger and explorer running (iirc) 37s and 35s both with d35.
Terrain and driving style have alot to do with parts reliablity.

pjrhodes88 · Jul 12, 2016

I'd go with the Dana 44 with lockers and 4.56 gears to run the 33's

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swynx · Jul 13, 2016

AzLizard said:
I had conserns about running d35 in my explorer with 33-35s untill chating with BloodBane also a member here.
He has a v8 Ranger and explorer running (iirc) 37s and 35s both with d35.
Terrain and driving style have alot to do with parts reliablity.

this was my experience too.. his v8 ranger is a 347 with 35 inch boggers; or it used to be

BLOODBANE · Jul 13, 2016

One of my Explorer wheeling as well)
This is my 347 powered Ranger. Its running 36's now. Its just about the limit for the D35, but Im not severe on the stupid pedal. It mainly has to do with your driving style. If you like to do neutral drops, with your wheels turned all the way over, go with a D60 (it still wouldnt last). Any axle you use will grenade if you dont use some common sense. I ran the 7.5 with a stock built 302, until I got my 8.8 built and it held up (I really didnt push it). I run 35's on my Explorer (with lockers on both the Ranger and Explorer) and they do what I ask of them.

33's should be O.K. (you never said if your running lockers or not), just use your head a little. The 35 is not a bad axle, and gets a bad rap because of the TTB. I do have a Dana 44 out of a 78 Bronco, but I think Im gonna use it on my Samurai buggy with 38's (I will build the heck out of it). The only real difference, other than straight axle/TTB (and axle diameter)is better wheel bearing placement on the 44. The spindle nuts are even the exact same things. You do get better hubs with the D44 (more aftermarket choices)

Unless your gonna do some major wheeling, the 35 will work. I would however, rebuild it (new bearings, seals, U-Joints, etc...), AND I would jump a few sizes in gears to make up for the bigger/more mass of the new wheels and tires (example if your running 355's I would jump to at least a 3:73's or even better go to 4:10's (I run 4:56's in my Ranger, and 4:88's in my Explorer)

4x4junkie · Jul 14, 2016

Yeah, 33" diameter tires are well within the limits of the D35 axle (and your 8.8" rear too, for that matter).

4.56:1 gears would be about ideal if you have the 4.0L V6.

I've been running 35" tires on mine for over 12 years now, locked with ARB and 5.13:1 gears. It's held up fine. Like Bloodbane, I don't mash down on the throttle whenever I might happen to lose a little traction, instead I look for a better line or use a slight bit more speed to carry the vehicle past something. Mashing the throttle while the vehicle is bouncing over stuff is the best way to break ANY axle (as well as driveshafts, t-cases, transmissions, etc.).

85_Ranger4x4 said:
The crosses are the same size as a 44 but Ford put cheaper crosses in it at the factory.

AFAIK Ford used the same Spicer 5-297X on all applications it was called for. The 297X has been superseded by the much stronger (cold-forged) 5-760X, so indeed those would be the ones to get.

Also, (OP) see this page:
http://www.therangerstation.com/Magazine/May06/dana35_ujoint_snapring.htm

thcscubajohn · Jul 14, 2016

Thanks guys this is what I figured that as long as I'm not abusive it should be fine I will however replace the u joints and service the diffs and what are your opinions on power Trax or lock rite lockers

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BLOODBANE · Jul 15, 2016

I run the Lock-Rights in both my Explorer and Ranger (Detroit in the rear of my Ranger). I have never had any issues out of them.

1994 ranger dana 35

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