so many CEL's new to rangers

90rangerxlt · Jan 17, 2015

Hey, all! Just purchased a 1990 4x4 2.3 5 speed ranger and have a few check engine lights and don't know where to start at! First of all let me explain my problem. The truck when it's running will for the most part run silky smooth. It will however randomly shut off and will do this occasionally while driving. Starting the truck usually involves trying to get it to about 2.5-3k rpm so it won't immediately shut off. and for the first time to today it actually bucked on me while driving. I looked up the koeo and koer testing procedures and have quite a few codes and I just don't know where to start so hopefully someone can help. Okay, so during the KOEO test the codes that showed were 33, 41, 48, 66 (I disconnected the MAF the day prior for testing purposes so I assume thats why that is showing.) and finally 88. During the KOER test I get codes 21 and 33. So from what I'm gathering from my research is that there is more than likely an ignition problem happening am I correct on this? My temp gauge also barely reaches the first hash mark on the gauge, will code 21 (ect sensor) be causing that issue? Or is that a normal spot on rangers? I notice that the truck kind of runs rich, not surprising at least with a possible failing ECT sensor and maybe an ignition system that can't burn the fuel! Thanks for any help and knowledge y'all can pass down!

90rangerxlt · Jan 17, 2015

oh and although I'm not leaning heavily on it being the culprit right now, I will be testing my fuel pressure here in the next few days if I can ever find out what I did with my tester..

90rangerxlt · Jan 17, 2015

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v9ADspw1p38&feature=youtu.be

Here's a video of my problem. There is a point a few seconds in where I cycle the key a few times to get the fuel pump to prime to try and see if maybe the regulator is bleeding off too quickly and it didn't seem to help. So like I mentioned earlier I don't think it's fuel related for the time being. Any input appreciated!

scotts90ranger · Jan 17, 2015

My Ranger has had the temp needle at the first notch on the gauge for the last 15 years, that's fairly normal for whatever reason... when it stands straight up you know you have a problem

It sounds like an ignition or crank sensor problem, check the connection at the DIS module on the front of the intake manifold, and the crank sensor connector that's around there somewhere (one 4 pin plug and one single wire plug together going between the alternator and power steering pump). My guess is crank sensor... not too horrible to change, but if you have the time to do it it might be best to change the timing belt while you're in there...

90rangerxlt · Jan 17, 2015

Hey, thanks for the feedback Scott! So do you think code 48 ( Electronic Ignition - coil primary circuit failure - Ignition Systems) and code 88 (Electronic Ignition - IDM, DPI or spout circuit fault - Ignition Systems ) is being cause by one or the other? I'll go out now and look to see if maybe the wire is being grounded on something or if the connections are loose.

90rangerxlt · Jan 17, 2015

Update: I went to autozone and had them test the ICM and it was infact bad. I shelled out 90 bucks for a new one. The instructions say that it needs all four bolts holding it down as a way to ground the ICM but there is only 3 bolt holes on the mounting surface. Is anyone here using a different way to mount or possibly adding a ground strap to the ICM?

scotts90ranger · Jan 18, 2015

The instructions are wrong, it needs just the 3 bolts, I don't remember why but I think the 4th bolt grounds something out that shouldn't be...

That would do it, it does happen but the DIS modules seem to live longer than the TFI modules which is why I stuck with DIS instead of swapping to a distributor when I did my turbo swap, and the DIS has more spark energy.

90rangerxlt · Jan 18, 2015

Yea, when I took it off I noticed it was a cheap parts store replacement and it didn't have a lot of heat sink on the back and this didn't come with a lot either so I'll have to buy more. But I guess the combo of being cheap with a lot of heat didn't make it last as long. Well I'll put it back together tomorrow and pray i dont' have anymore issues lol

90rangerxlt · Jan 20, 2015

Okay, got the new module in and it fired right up and few seconds later died again!! I started it up and it continued to run and idle for about 15 minutes until it died again. I came back about 2 hours later and it would not start at all. Figuring maybe it wasn't grounded properly I tightened the bolts and it ran fine and drove fine. I drove it for about 5 miles and let it idle for about 30 minutes. A few hours later I go out and put 10 easy miles on it no problem. I then go out this morning and it would not start at all and when it did start it was doing the same thing that it did in the first video. I finally got it running and took it for a drive and got some new CEL's out of it. I'm getting the same codes as before but now have 18, 28 and 96. The tach now is not functioning properly and when I rev the engine the CEL goes away only to come back? see vid here https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LM1UgNXIJdU

So should I try a better ground on that 4th bolt hole? Could it be the Crank posistion sensor? Could it be a bad coil pack? I was reading about disconnecting a coil pack to see if it would run. I tried disconnecting the exhaust side and it wouldn't fire at all. Normal?

scotts90ranger · Jan 21, 2015

The exhaust side is the primary coil, try swapping them and see what happens, if the tach signal is going away I'm thinking crank sensor...

90rangerxlt · Jan 21, 2015

Any good reads on replacing it? I've searched but haven't found a detailed thread. Seems pretty straight forward I'm just worried about alignment of CKP.

scotts90ranger · Jan 21, 2015

I've had mine apart several times over the years between moving it to the turbo engine and rebuilding that engine a few years later... I've never once used an alignment tool or read directions to do it I don't think... just applied good judgement.

It's pretty simple, there's usually two options with widely different prices, the more expensive ones will have a plastic alignment tool and the wire harness all the way to the connector by the DIS module, the cheaper ones (by cheaper I mean usually 25% of the cost... last I checked at least) have a 3" pigtail instead of the whole harness, and don't come with the alignment tool. With these you really should solder and heat shrink the connections as you want as little metal to gather stray signals as possible (the more bare metal the more they act like antennae). On alignment, there is a spot on the reluctor wheel where you can see both grooves in the sensor and both tone rings, I've been centering that visually and it's worked just fine.

If you get the sensor with the full wire harness, it won't fit behind the timing cover like that, so the best way to get it routed like stock is to take the wires out of the connector (the single wire connector fits I think) being sure to mark what color went where, feed it up from the bottom then put the wires back in. You should be able to do this job by just taking off the crank pulley (4 bolts with 10mm heads), that'll get you to the sensor.

90rangerxlt · Jan 22, 2015

So no taking off the balancer or timing cover? I was going to replace the belt while I was in there but if I just have to take the pulley off than maybe I'll wait a few months to do the belt.

90rangerxlt · Jan 22, 2015

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/bwd-engine-crankshaft-position-sensor-css60p/3461173-P#
This is the part I'm thinking about getting. I can get it for 77 dollars with discount.. any experience?

scotts90ranger · Jan 23, 2015

If you can get that version for $77, I'd go for it, better than splicing, last I saw they were like $130ish...

You can get to it by just taking the outer pulley/balancer off which is the 4 small bolts you can see, like I said take the wires out of the connector (take out the red lock thing and they release pretty easy) and go that way. It would be good to do the timing belt, but yeah you don't need to dig that deep, the outer timing cover doesn't get you any more room than just taking the pulley off.

so many CEL's new to rangers

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