Rusty Version 2.0, what i found...

I know maybe like 3 people on here might be interested in hearing me ramble about fixing up the seperated at birth brother to my old 87 ranger, affectionatly known around this place as "rusty", but, im gonna post progress and other things here and there about the truck im deeming "rusty 2.0"

Anyways, after tearing the steering wheel and plastic covers off the column to change the key tumbler (which, ranger columns have alot more to them then the same era Fseries columns)

Ignition cylinder change went pretty easy.

Threw in a battery and hit the key, everything does what its supposed to, engine cranked, etc. Snorted some ether in the plenium, hit the key and she fired up (2.9L) and ran really well for the 5 seconds the ether lasted, the guy i bought it from said it would run on ether (but its craigslist, so...)

So with the help of a farmall cub i dragged it up and put it in the barn, (much eaiser now that the column unlocks ) Oil is dirty, but not coolant tainted, radiator is a bit low (maybe 1/2-3/4 gallon) but the coolant i can see is green as grass and the radiator looks good. (Cap is wasted though, oh well).

So upon first inspection these are the things i noticed..

1- Obviously the fuel pump isnt running, relay is clicking but i hear no pump(s). Further diagnostic on that today, im really hoping its the inertia switch or something, or the rail pump, i dont really wanna drop the tank. That being said isnt the rail pump the one that usually fails? But either way i hear neither one running.

2- All lights work, except dome, side markers, turn signals, and brake lights. The dome im not to worried about, but the signals and brake lights i am. When i flick the turn signal switch i get nothing, and the hazards dont work. Is it possible the brake lights/turn signal issue is related? Maybe a switch failure?

3- Wipers dont work. They are stuck in the up postion. The washer pump runs, so im thinking motor? Any advice here is welcomed as well.

4- Rowing thru the gears while sitting still with the engine off, 1st, 2nd, 4th and 5th (TK5) feel prettey nice and tight, 3rd however feels sloppy. Would this be a bushing or is it more likely 3rd is toast?

I know that the general discussion isnt really the place to ask these questions, but im hoping this will be an ongoing progress thread for the aforementioned 3 people who care

I can't help, but please keep posting about Rusty 2.0

I'm interested in following along.

It sounds like you might have a bad headlight switch. As far as the fuel pump, you'll have to obviously check and see if there's voltage at the pumps, and check the inertia switch on the passenger side.

Jim Oaks said:

I'm interested in following along.

It sounds like you might have a bad headlight switch. As far as the fuel pump, you'll have to obviously check and see if there's voltage at the pumps, and check the inertia switch on the passenger side.

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Heres what i found on the fuel pumps...

At first i had juice to the relay, but none down to the inertia switch. So i robbed the relay outta rusty 1, stuck it on, bam, i got power to the inertia switch on one wire for a few seconds, which is what is supposed to happen from my thread in the 2.9 forum. The other wire had no power during any test, but even after jumping the inertia switch, i got no fuel pumpage.

I ran out of time before i could check out the splices underneath. But i hear no pumps at all. But my question is, do both pumps run in tandem, or does the rail pump have to pump before the tank pump? Or vise versa....

I had a similar issue with rusty #1 and a buddy rewired (rigged) where the pump ran all the time, but those wires are mouse chow now. This truck is pretty unmolested as far as wiring, id like to keep it that way.

Is there a way to just put 12v to the pump and see if it's working, or a meter to see if there's voltage during the 2-seconds when you turn the key? Maybe a 12-volt light tapped in to see if it comes on for 2-seconds. Maybe it's just a bad pump, or bad connections due to age and sitting.

Jim Oaks said:

Is there a way to just put 12v to the pump and see if it's working, or a meter to see if there's voltage during the 2-seconds when you turn the key? Maybe a 12-volt light tapped in to see if it comes on for 2-seconds. Maybe it's just a bad pump, or bad connections due to age and sitting.

Click to expand...

What ill do is just hit it with a test light while my dad or someone cycles the key. I have a feeling its in the connection splice where the power divides between the two pumps.

UPDATE....

I think i got it narrowed down to the pump itself. I have all kinds of juice to the pump. Now i just gotta go pick one up and swap it out, and hope for the best.

Although, while i was under it i noticed the radius arm crossmember is rotted (bad) on the driverside where the arm bolts in. Are the replacement mounts pretty good or would i be better off finding a good one in a junkyard?

my friend has a ranger just like that. Well it used to look like that. He painted it flat black with an orange frame. But it used to be those same colors. Had the 2.9 with a 3 speed I believe.

rusty ol ranger said:

Although, while i was under it i noticed the radius arm crossmember is rotted (bad) on the driverside where the arm bolts in. Are the replacement mounts pretty good or would i be better off finding a good one in a junkyard?

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You wanna fight with the big radius arm nuts and all the rivets in a JY?

Guys that let them go without keeping on top of the radius arm bushings hog out the hole the radius arms go into... which is mainly why they make replacements.

91stranger said:

my friend has a ranger just like that. Well it used to look like that. He painted it flat black with an orange frame. But it used to be those same colors. Had the 2.9 with a 3 speed I believe.

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It wouldn't be a three speed from the factory with a 2.9.

rusty ol ranger said:

UPDATE....

I think i got it narrowed down to the pump itself. I have all kinds of juice to the pump. Now i just gotta go pick one up and swap it out, and hope for the best.

Click to expand...

Go ahead and pick a new one up, BUT, once the old one is out test it by running battery power directly to the terminals under the rubber boots.
I had 2 frame rail pumps I was going to throw out and on a whim I put power to them and one of the two worked. I've since come to the conclusion that the ends that clip onto the terminals get loose and end up corroded preventing current flow. I crimp on new ends and solve problem.

85_Ranger4x4 said:

You wanna fight with the big radius arm nuts and all the rivets in a JY?

Click to expand...

I wouldnt be, i go out pick the one i want, they forklift it in the air, torch it off, and away i go lol

I was just wondering if the replacements were made weaker or something then ford ones.

But seein as how a new one is a whole 45 bucks, ill just go that route.

alwaysFlOoReD said:

Go ahead and pick a new one up, BUT, once the old one is out test it by running battery power directly to the terminals under the rubber boots.
I had 2 frame rail pumps I was going to throw out and on a whim I put power to them and one of the two worked. I've since come to the conclusion that the ends that clip onto the terminals get loose and end up corroded preventing current flow. I crimp on new ends and solve problem.

Click to expand...

i was wondering about that, ill try that and see what happens.

How are the frame rails ?

Andy D said:

How are the frame rails ?

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The framr rails, cab mounts, everything else looks good. Its just that radius arm mount.

85_Ranger4x4 said:

You wanna fight with the big radius arm nuts and all the rivets in a JY?

Guys that let them go without keeping on top of the radius arm bushings hog out the hole the radius arms go into... which is mainly why they make replacements.



It wouldn't be a three speed from the factory with a 2.9.

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His dad owned a junkyard and was mashing up parts from everything. I know it had a 3 speed transmission but cant remember the motor.

91stranger said:

His dad owned a junkyard and was mashing up parts from everything. I know it had a 3 speed transmission but cant remember the motor.

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Coulda been a 2.8/C5 (auto) combo?

Either way, went and picked up a new delphi pump today from autozone. I didnt know they will price match rock autos price + shipping. Got a 79.99 pump for 48.97 out the door. Hey, 30 bucks is 30 bucks.

Now, the fun of trying to get 31year old spring couplers loose. Those things kick my ass everytime. Yes, i got the little tool, but i got so fed up trying to change the fuel filter on my 97 i finally said screw it and took it to the shop and paid them to do it.

Anywho, pry wont get back under it till this weekend or possibly monday. If you see a video of it running, youll know i won, if its a profanity laced rant asking for advice, youll know i lost.