Another Duraspark Conversion Question

encore243 · May 10, 2016

First off let me say I have found a ton of useful information on this site. I just can't find the answers to a few questions, I hope someone can help.
Currently doing a Duraspark conversion and will be purchasing all NEW parts hoping to avoid issues associated with used/modified parts. Can I just order all the parts needed for the conversion from a '78 Pinto? Napa offers all the components for the Pinto. Carb is a little spendy but would rather spend a little more now to avoid issues down the road. Thanks to anyone with any insite.
PJB

RonD · May 10, 2016

Have you had a look here: http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/2_8Duraspark.shtml

Yes, to '78 Pinto with 2.8l

One thing that may be better than Duraspark module, is the HEI module, less money and more reliable than the Duraspark.
You still need the Duraspark distributor but you use the HEI module instead.

Google: duraspark hei conversion
very very easy wiring as well

Are you staying with the 2150A feedback carb?
Or going with a 2150 with no feedback?

encore243 · May 10, 2016

Thanks for the info RonD. I am using the technical article for the Duraspark conversion as a guide- great information. I am looking to just purchase a NEW, (reman) non-feedback carburetor from Napa for the Pinto for this conversion. I am assuming its a 2150 but does not specify.

RonD · May 10, 2016

That should prevent future issues, although carbs do need to be adjusted once a year.

Nice thing about EDIS(distrbutorless) and fuel injected engines is that you don't need to work on them monthly or yearly.

But that is also one of the problems with them, lol........when there is a problem you have to learn about the systems from scratch because you didn't have to work on them monthly or yearly.

I don't think the carb and distributor setups were simpler or easier to work on, the shear repetition of having to working on them just made them more familiar.

encore243 · May 10, 2016

A lot of truth in your statements for sure. When I began my career as a motorcycle tech, I got into it at the end of the points/condenser era. Then it was CDI, primitive EFI, carbs with TPS, now full on EFI with programmable ECU's and diagnostics- which is more of a headache if the problem occurs AFTER the ECU. Anyway..
I got this Ranger as a basket case with no ignition but still has the feedback carburetor. My thought was to just buy new components and clean up the wiring mess under the hood. I will probably just go with all Duraspark components. I have read stories of people having issues with coils getting hot and losing spark after the conversion. But I have yet to read what caused this problem or what was the fix. Any insight on this issue? Thanks again for the help.

RonD · May 10, 2016

An ignition coil is for all practical purposes a dead short, primary coil is under 1ohm, 0 ohms is a dead short.
Most have seen what a dead short does to a wire, smoke and melt, gets plenty hot.

Coils get 12volt power when key is turned on but no ground, the "points", or transistor, Ground's the coil to power it up, then unGrounds it to send spark out the Secondary coil.
At idle, 700RPM, that's 2,100 sparks per minute, 3 cylinders for each RPM

So coils heat up, you can lessen the heat by using a ballast resistor or wire, so after startup coil only gets 8 or 9 volts instead of 14volts(alternator voltage), that will extend its life.
Oil bath coils(round cylinders) are fairly old school, new coils take the heat better

4x4prepper · Jun 5, 2016

another thing to consider on doing a swap

Go old school points. Get it running rock solid on a 1974 Mustang II 2.8L points distributor. Then if you want, switch to Pertronix if you want the electronic ignition. This eliminates a lot of headaches and wiring.

What I did is run a separate relay for the cranking circuit so it gets a full 12v and then switches to a circuit with a standard ballast resistor once the Bii starts.

For a carb, get the the 1978 Mustang II 2.8L (this will net you the 2100/2150 1.08 venturi carb).

At 12 degrees BTDC, and 39 degrees dwells, you will get a steady 15 Hg out of the box, I originally gapped my plugs at 0.035, but, I might go to the .045 depending on condition. I Have not run it enough yet to break them in.

Another Duraspark Conversion Question

encore243

New Member

RonD

Official TRS AI

encore243

New Member

RonD

Official TRS AI

encore243

New Member

RonD

Official TRS AI

4x4prepper

Active Member

Sponsored Ad

Sponsored Ad

Members online

Today's birthdays

Member & Vendor Upgrades

Latest posts

Truck of The Month

Recently Featured

Follow TRS On Instagram

Latest Album Photos

TRS Events

25th Anniversary Sponsors

Check Out The TRS Store

Sponsored Ad

Sponsored Ad

Sponsored Ad

Amazon Deals