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Truck Keeps Frying Headlight Switches


a2thy

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Here's a link to the more general electrical problem my truck has (the thread that spawned this one):
http://therangerstation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=158672

Before I replace the headlight switch for the second time, I'd like to know how to determine exactly what keeps frying/melting them. The excessive heat seems to be limited to the larger two of the eight prongs on the switch itself, along with the terminals they slide into in the electrical connector. The heat damage is easier to see in the pics of the wires/connector than it is in the pics of the switch, but it's apparent on both parts.

I have a multimeter and a Chilton's manual, but the wiring diagrams in that book are quite limited to say the least. Can anyone tell me what each wire in this connector is for and what kind of continuity, resistance, voltage, etc it should have under certain conditions/functions? A wiring diagram related to these components could help me out a lot.

The truck is a 1997 Mazda B2300 SE cab+ 2wd 5spd manual with A/C, power steering, and manual everything else. Other electrical problems it has are: fluctuating voltage (needle bounces up and down, especially after switching accessories on/off), door ajar light is frequently on despite doors being securely closed (regular cleaning/lubrication of the latch mechanisms have had no effect on this problem), cigar lighters blow fuses every time I've tried to connect them, a blown PCM diode in the power distribution box, the absence of two ABS related maxi fuses along with their receptacles in the power distribution box, A/C doesn't work/heat stays on low setting even when turn off (possibly unrelated to electrical problems).

I know that's a lot of random information, but I'm not sure where to start as I don't know what may have caused what. Thank you in advance.
 

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Mazda

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First off your problem is that the connector needs to be replaced. The wires should not be exposed in the plug. You are getting a short or arc when the headlights are turned on and is causing the problem.

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=3969945&cc=1138148&jnid=689&jpid=0


They are about $25.00

Other Problems

1. Guage will fluctuate when turning on accessories, but might want to have the alternator checked. Power Regulator might be going bad.

2. Door Switch for the dome light is not in the latch it's a pin switch on the hinge side.

3. Sort on the power outlets or most likely a blown fuse.

4. Truck was not equipped with the ABS fuses you don't have. That's why their are no terminals visible to put them into. They manufacture only one Distribution Box and outfit it for different models. Mine are also not there along with power seats and power windows witch I added later.

5. A/C is a whole other deal most likely not electrical. Most likely needs to be recharged or needs new clutch. Your blower problem is likely caused by the blower resistor.

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=2194938&cc=1138148&jnid=714&jpid=0

These are around $15.00. Pull the blower motor first and clean it out might solve the problem. A lot of leaves and crap get in there.



Bryan
 
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a2thy

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Thank you for your prompt reply, I haven't been able to find that part anywhere until now. Is it likely that that connector and the switch itself are the only components in need of replacement to prevent future burning out of headlight switches? If so, I'll be changing them out immediately.

1. The alternator is a remanufactured one, changed out a few months go, but could have come with a defective voltage regulator, as suggested by other forum members in my other related thread.

2. Couldn't find a door pin switch anywhere. Where exactly is it located on the hinge side?

3. I'll try a different type of cigar lighter assembly. Maybe that's the only problem with that. Fuse only blows with lighter installed.

4. I understand what you're saying about the universality of the power distribution boxes, but according to the Chilton Manual my specific year, make model, etc is supposed to come with those two ABS fuses. My truck also appears to have ABS (modules found under hood and on frame rail, ABS light comes on now and again, etc).

5. I'll dive into A/C troubleshooting as soon as I fix these other problems. Thanks for the tips!
 

4x4junkie

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2. Door Switch for the dome light is not in the latch it's a pin switch on the hinge side.
Not on a '97... It's in the door latch.


4. I understand what you're saying about the universality of the power distribution boxes, but according to the Chilton Manual my specific year, make model, etc is supposed to come with those two ABS fuses. My truck also appears to have ABS (modules found under hood and on frame rail, ABS light comes on now and again, etc).
Is your truck 4WABS? or RABS? If RABS, then maybe that could be why the two extra slots.
 

a2thy

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On my door jamb sticker, under the BRK category it has a "B." I'm assuming this is the brake code. According to information I found on another forum this means I have 4WABS. Is this right? How can I confirm this?
 

4x4junkie

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2WD / 4WD
4WD
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Are there ABS wheel sensors & tone rings on your front wheels? (they'd be located behind the brake rotors, you should also see an electrical wire that comes out from behind each spindle together with your brake hoses if there are sensors).
 

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