- Joined
- Aug 26, 2008
- Messages
- 1,094
- Reaction score
- 13
- Points
- 0
- Vehicle Year
- 1994, 2001
- Make / Model
- 1994 Ford Bronc
- Engine Size
- 5.8v8
- Transmission
- Automatic
- My credo
- Failing is easy. Everyone can do it.
Problems here sound two fold.
First? Pick up a small vacuum pump tester. The harbor freight one works ok, the Mitivac one is more name--brand.
Attach the fuel pressure gauge to the valve, disconnect and CAP the line from the intake to prevent a vacuum leak.
Hook the vacuum pump, using a rubber hose of the correct type to the regulator. Start the truck.... You should have 40 PSI at the pressure gauge. Pump up the vacuum to the reg. to about 15-18" of vacuum. The pressure should drop about 4-8 lbs from 40. At no time should the pressure go above that 40 mark. What happens with this system? More engine vacuum==tells the FPR the engine is not under heavy load, so it reduces the fuel pressure. Less vacuum==Tells the FPR the engine is under load, increase in pressure is needed.
If all that works out? Stop the engine and unhook the vacuum line to the FPR and the vacuum pump. Check the inside of that vacuum hose for fuel while you're at it. Discharge CAREFULLY any remaining pressure and disconnect the gauge.
For what it's worth? I've not had any problems with a clogged return line, except for the cases where something impacted the steel line and crimped it a bit. It's worth checking, but I'd inspect for damage (rock kicked up, tree limb nailing the steel line, etc..)
For the timing? The SPOUT is crazy easy to locate, however it's not on the harness sitting on top of the engine. (that's where I figured it was!...) On the firewall behind the disty? Follow the rubber flex-loom surrounding the main harness. It will curl towards the front about 6 inches or so. There will be what appears to be an "Inline fuse holder" looking device. It's on about a 3" long 2 wires from the main harness. It bears a strong look to an inline fuse holder, color is black. It will have a slight cut-out/machined out semi-circle cut into the holder plastic, as to give your fingers the ability to grip the actual connector. It's pretty small, and at times it will be turned in---down-- in a direction that is hard to visualize. But it's there. Get the engine to temp, remove the SPOUT..and set to 10btdc. You'll know you've got the right connector, the engine's rpm and quality of idling will change when you pull the spout plug out. DO NOT!! LOOSE THAT SMALL PLUG!! (yeah...it's that small, about 1/2" sq with two small prongs sticking out)
That should sort out the timing. (hope you have better luck with yours then we are with ours LOL!!)
Best of luck with it!!
S-
First? Pick up a small vacuum pump tester. The harbor freight one works ok, the Mitivac one is more name--brand.
Attach the fuel pressure gauge to the valve, disconnect and CAP the line from the intake to prevent a vacuum leak.
Hook the vacuum pump, using a rubber hose of the correct type to the regulator. Start the truck.... You should have 40 PSI at the pressure gauge. Pump up the vacuum to the reg. to about 15-18" of vacuum. The pressure should drop about 4-8 lbs from 40. At no time should the pressure go above that 40 mark. What happens with this system? More engine vacuum==tells the FPR the engine is not under heavy load, so it reduces the fuel pressure. Less vacuum==Tells the FPR the engine is under load, increase in pressure is needed.
If all that works out? Stop the engine and unhook the vacuum line to the FPR and the vacuum pump. Check the inside of that vacuum hose for fuel while you're at it. Discharge CAREFULLY any remaining pressure and disconnect the gauge.
For what it's worth? I've not had any problems with a clogged return line, except for the cases where something impacted the steel line and crimped it a bit. It's worth checking, but I'd inspect for damage (rock kicked up, tree limb nailing the steel line, etc..)
For the timing? The SPOUT is crazy easy to locate, however it's not on the harness sitting on top of the engine. (that's where I figured it was!...) On the firewall behind the disty? Follow the rubber flex-loom surrounding the main harness. It will curl towards the front about 6 inches or so. There will be what appears to be an "Inline fuse holder" looking device. It's on about a 3" long 2 wires from the main harness. It bears a strong look to an inline fuse holder, color is black. It will have a slight cut-out/machined out semi-circle cut into the holder plastic, as to give your fingers the ability to grip the actual connector. It's pretty small, and at times it will be turned in---down-- in a direction that is hard to visualize. But it's there. Get the engine to temp, remove the SPOUT..and set to 10btdc. You'll know you've got the right connector, the engine's rpm and quality of idling will change when you pull the spout plug out. DO NOT!! LOOSE THAT SMALL PLUG!! (yeah...it's that small, about 1/2" sq with two small prongs sticking out)
That should sort out the timing. (hope you have better luck with yours then we are with ours LOL!!)
Best of luck with it!!
S-