• Welcome Visitor! Please take a few seconds and Register for our forum. Even if you don't want to post, you can still 'Like' and react to posts.

Anyone seen these locking D35/D44 spindle nuts?


pjtoledo

Well-Known Member
Supporting Member
U.S. Military - Veteran
Joined
Oct 5, 2007
Messages
5,337
Reaction score
2,906
Points
113
Location
Toledo Ohio
Vehicle Year
20002005199
Make / Model
Fords
Engine Size
3.0 2.3
OK. my experience is with a '77 F150 and '78 Bronco, both had Dana 44. the nuts are inside the hub housing on those. didn't get into Rangers until 2000, it has the full time front hubs. so I'll have to admit lack of knowledge on the Ranger locking hubs.
 
Last edited:


4x4junkie

Forum Staff Member
TRS Forum Moderator
TRS 20th Anniversary
Joined
Aug 19, 2001
Messages
10,749
Reaction score
580
Points
113
Location
So. Calif (SFV)
Vehicle Year
1990
Make / Model
Bronco II
Engine Type
2.9 V6
Engine Size
2.9L V6
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Tire Size
35x12.50R15
Yeah the spindle nuts are fully exposed on the TTB Dana35. However there just is not that much room between the nut and the inside of the hub, so I still don't think they will fit (same goes for the F-150 ratcheting nuts).

I have been tempted to give the Blitzkrieg nuts a shot though just to see how they work, but after I started tightening the stock nuts to 225ft-lbs, they haven't backed off anymore, so that leaves me without a real good reason to spend close to $100 on a problem I no longer have (I have had them loosen when tightened to the book-spec of 150 ft-lbs).
 

BlackBII

Ranger Custom
Article Contributor
OTOTM Winner
TRS Banner 2010-2011
Truck of Month
Joined
Aug 14, 2007
Messages
7,895
Reaction score
982
Points
113
Location
UT
Vehicle Year
1989
Make / Model
Ford
Engine Type
4.0 V6
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Total Lift
5
Tire Size
33
Yeah the spindle nuts are fully exposed on the TTB Dana35. However there just is not that much room between the nut and the inside of the hub, so I still don't think they will fit (same goes for the F-150 ratcheting nuts).

I have been tempted to give the Blitzkrieg nuts a shot though just to see how they work, but after I started tightening the stock nuts to 225ft-lbs, they haven't backed off anymore, so that leaves me without a real good reason to spend close to $100 on a problem I no longer have (I have had them loosen when tightened to the book-spec of 150 ft-lbs).
Dang. I was hoping the F150 nuts would work, but they may be too big.

The problem I have is that the little pin on the inner nut shears off easily, and then when tightening the outer nut to 200+ft-lbs the inner nut will also tighten and makes the bearing too tight. I've been able to replace the pin with a needle bearing, but the whole setup just seems prone to failure.

When I swapped the Dana 35 into my Ranger, I bought a new set of nuts and now both pins have already sheared off, either from me tightening them too much or they are just garbage. :annoyed:
 

ericbphoto

Overlander in development
TRS Event Staff
TRS Forum Moderator
Supporting Member
U.S. Military - Veteran
TRS 20th Anniversary
VAGABOND
TRS Event Participant
GMRS Radio License
Joined
Feb 7, 2016
Messages
15,202
Reaction score
16,340
Points
113
Age
59
Location
Wellford, SC
Vehicle Year
1993
Make / Model
Ford Ranger
Engine Type
3.0 V6
Engine Size
3.0L
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Total Lift
6"
Tire Size
35"
My credo
In theory, theory and practice are the same. In practice, they are different.
The washer with the tab that fits down into the keyway should prevent the inner nut from turning when you torque the outer nut. I would like something better. But as mentioned above, the D35 manual hubs limit us on the OD of what we install.

I tried a normal tabbed washer like what is used with bearing nuts on industrial machinery. But that size is hard to find. I also had to cut off all the unused external tabs so the hub would fit back over it. Not a great solution.

I had a washer (the original thick kind) whose tab wasn't engaging as much as I wanted. So i gently squeezed the washer in a vice to narrow the ID and make sure the tab fit securely in the keyway when installed. Haven't had any problems yet.

Eric B
 

BlackBII

Ranger Custom
Article Contributor
OTOTM Winner
TRS Banner 2010-2011
Truck of Month
Joined
Aug 14, 2007
Messages
7,895
Reaction score
982
Points
113
Location
UT
Vehicle Year
1989
Make / Model
Ford
Engine Type
4.0 V6
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Total Lift
5
Tire Size
33
The washer with the tab that fits down into the keyway should prevent the inner nut from turning when you torque the outer nut. I would like something better. But as mentioned above, the D35 manual hubs limit us on the OD of what we install.

I tried a normal tabbed washer like what is used with bearing nuts on industrial machinery. But that size is hard to find. I also had to cut off all the unused external tabs so the hub would fit back over it. Not a great solution.

I had a washer (the original thick kind) whose tab wasn't engaging as much as I wanted. So i gently squeezed the washer in a vice to narrow the ID and make sure the tab fit securely in the keyway when installed. Haven't had any problems yet.

Eric B
Yeah the tabbed washer will prevent the inner nut from turning, provided the tab is large enough to actually fit in the key slot. Just last week I was able to weld on some additional material to the tab to make it a tighter fit, and it's been okay since then.

I'm just looking for a better solution.

I picked up some of the F-150 nuts at AutoZone for $1.99 each. They must have made an error pricing them... Part Number 615-128.1. They appear to be too large but I will find out tonight. :icon_thumby:

I did find these, though I believe at 2.5" they will be too large to fit in the hub. With some machining they could be made to work.

Nut

Washer



 

4x4junkie

Forum Staff Member
TRS Forum Moderator
TRS 20th Anniversary
Joined
Aug 19, 2001
Messages
10,749
Reaction score
580
Points
113
Location
So. Calif (SFV)
Vehicle Year
1990
Make / Model
Bronco II
Engine Type
2.9 V6
Engine Size
2.9L V6
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Tire Size
35x12.50R15
Dang. I was hoping the F150 nuts would work, but they may be too big.

The problem I have is that the little pin on the inner nut shears off easily, and then when tightening the outer nut to 200+ft-lbs the inner nut will also tighten and makes the bearing too tight. I've been able to replace the pin with a needle bearing, but the whole setup just seems prone to failure.

When I swapped the Dana 35 into my Ranger, I bought a new set of nuts and now both pins have already sheared off, either from me tightening them too much or they are just garbage. :annoyed:
That sounds like crappy nuts (pins) to me, I've never had an issue with sheared pins.
One time I have had the tab slip out of the groove though (partly damaging the threads right next to the slot). I too welded a tiny bit of metal to the tab and then ground it down square and it's not done that anymore.
The nuts on mine I believe are original OE nuts (they should be, the axle came straight from Ford with the manual hubs option). I've seen where the Warn conversion nuts don't fit quite as snugly, I would suggest stick with the Spicer 28068X nuts mentioned in this thread.
 

BlackBII

Ranger Custom
Article Contributor
OTOTM Winner
TRS Banner 2010-2011
Truck of Month
Joined
Aug 14, 2007
Messages
7,895
Reaction score
982
Points
113
Location
UT
Vehicle Year
1989
Make / Model
Ford
Engine Type
4.0 V6
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Total Lift
5
Tire Size
33
That sounds like crappy nuts (pins) to me, I've never had an issue with sheared pins.
One time I have had the tab slip out of the groove though (partly damaging the threads right next to the slot). I too welded a tiny bit of metal to the tab and then ground it down square and it's not done that anymore.
The nuts on mine I believe are original OE nuts (they should be, the axle came straight from Ford with the manual hubs option). I've seen where the Warn conversion nuts don't fit quite as snugly, I would suggest stick with the Spicer 28068X nuts mentioned in this thread.
I do believe that is the case; they may have been Dorman(P/N: 05305) nuts and not Dana/Spicer. I think I got them from RockAuto, and looking now they only carry Dorman.

Interestingly, my cousin had some outer nuts actually split in half(perpendicular to the threads), and I believe his were Dorman as well.
 

ericbphoto

Overlander in development
TRS Event Staff
TRS Forum Moderator
Supporting Member
U.S. Military - Veteran
TRS 20th Anniversary
VAGABOND
TRS Event Participant
GMRS Radio License
Joined
Feb 7, 2016
Messages
15,202
Reaction score
16,340
Points
113
Age
59
Location
Wellford, SC
Vehicle Year
1993
Make / Model
Ford Ranger
Engine Type
3.0 V6
Engine Size
3.0L
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Total Lift
6"
Tire Size
35"
My credo
In theory, theory and practice are the same. In practice, they are different.
Those are the tabbed washers I referred to. The tabs will fit your original nuts. So you don't really need to buy those $20 nuts. Notice also that the website you found doesn't list a price for the washer. You won't like the price when you ask them for a quote.

The inner nut for the auto-hubs with the little key that you fish out with a magnet is actually an elegant solution. I looked long and hard at mine trying to find an easy way to modify it for use with the manual hubs.

Eric B
 

BlackBII

Ranger Custom
Article Contributor
OTOTM Winner
TRS Banner 2010-2011
Truck of Month
Joined
Aug 14, 2007
Messages
7,895
Reaction score
982
Points
113
Location
UT
Vehicle Year
1989
Make / Model
Ford
Engine Type
4.0 V6
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Total Lift
5
Tire Size
33
Those are the tabbed washers I referred to. The tabs will fit your original nuts. So you don't really need to buy those $20 nuts. Notice also that the website you found doesn't list a price for the washer. You won't like the price when you ask them for a quote.

The inner nut for the auto-hubs with the little key that you fish out with a magnet is actually an elegant solution. I looked long and hard at mine trying to find an easy way to modify it for use with the manual hubs.

Eric B
The tabbed washers can be bought on Amazon for $5 and the nuts are $7

I was looking at those because they are listed at being .5" thick, which would make them ideal for adding more pins or even some allen bolts with a little machining, like the warn 37207 kit.

Unfortunately, the wheel bearing retaining nut used by the Auto hubs won't fit in the manual hub. Although with a little grinding, one could make it fit.

And confirming what we already know, the F150 nut is too big

Auto hub



Manual hub



Locknut



F150 Nut

 
Last edited:

BlackBII

Ranger Custom
Article Contributor
OTOTM Winner
TRS Banner 2010-2011
Truck of Month
Joined
Aug 14, 2007
Messages
7,895
Reaction score
982
Points
113
Location
UT
Vehicle Year
1989
Make / Model
Ford
Engine Type
4.0 V6
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Total Lift
5
Tire Size
33
Made my own version of the discontinued Warn 37207 set.

Jeep JA000865 washer vs RBV washer. Notice the much larger tab.



Drilled out the pin holes and added some larger 1/8" steel dowel pins.



Drilled and tapped two 8-32 holes in the outer nut. Using a dana 44 washer with the tabs ground off. The dana 44 washer has a much better tab on it. Dorman 618-041





 
Last edited:

Kona

06/2014 OTOTM Winner
Canada Military - Veteran
OTOTM Winner
ASE Certified Tech
Ham Radio Operator
Joined
Nov 10, 2007
Messages
621
Reaction score
2
Points
18
Location
Kamloops BC
Vehicle Year
1991
Make / Model
Ford
Engine Type
4.0 V6
Engine Size
4.0L
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Total Lift
7"
Tire Size
35x12.50x15
The washer with the tab that fits down into the keyway should prevent the inner nut from turning when you torque the outer nut. I would like something better. But as mentioned above, the D35 manual hubs limit us on the OD of what we install.

I tried a normal tabbed washer like what is used with bearing nuts on industrial machinery. But that size is hard to find. I also had to cut off all the unused external tabs so the hub would fit back over it. Not a great solution.

I had a washer (the original thick kind) whose tab wasn't engaging as much as I wanted. So i gently squeezed the washer in a vice to narrow the ID and make sure the tab fit securely in the keyway when installed. Haven't had any problems yet.

Eric B
Dana 35 keywat is shit because it is threads not solid , I have a pile of screwed spindles in my scrap pile
 

97Ranger3.0

Active Member
Joined
Nov 22, 2017
Messages
175
Reaction score
67
Points
28
Location
Florida
Vehicle Year
1997
Make / Model
Ford
Engine Type
3.0 V6
Engine Size
3.0
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Total Lift
4"
Tire Size
33x12.5
Made my own version of the discontinued Warn 37207 set.

Jeep JA000865 washer vs RBV washer. Notice the much larger tab.



Drilled out the pin holes and added some larger 1/8" steel dowel pins.



Drilled and tapped two 8-32 holes in the outer nut. Using a dana 44 washer with the tabs ground off. The dana 44 washer has a much better tab on it. Dorman 618-041





BlackBII -

I have a few questions on this setup. I replicated what you have done here (at least I think I did based on your pictures and this article https://www.therangerstation.com/tech/blackbiis-dana-35-ttb-spindle-lock-nut-mod/). But, my locking hub interferes with the extra lock washer & bolts. With everything installed like you have it, I have still another 1/8" that my locking hub just won't clear so it won't fully seat. So I'm wondering, are you running the Warn Jeep hubs, rather than the factory Ford hubs?

Or, for your inner lock nuts, are those still the stock ones just with the larger pin? Or did you use outer lock nuts and add a pin to those for the inner locknuts? That's about the only way I could see it working on my truck.

I would really like to do something similar to this setup but like I said, it didn't clear on my factory hubs. If anyone has any insight on this, I'd appreciate it!
 

97Ranger3.0

Active Member
Joined
Nov 22, 2017
Messages
175
Reaction score
67
Points
28
Location
Florida
Vehicle Year
1997
Make / Model
Ford
Engine Type
3.0 V6
Engine Size
3.0
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Total Lift
4"
Tire Size
33x12.5
Also I did not have good luck with those Jeep washers. I installed it, then started to tighten up the outer lock nut and noticed the inner one was spinning too. So I backed it off and found this lol. The one on the left I haven't used yet, the one on the right is the one that got wrecked. Apparently that tab didn't hold up too well, even though it's longer and should in theory hold better. :icon_confused:
 

Attachments

ericbphoto

Overlander in development
TRS Event Staff
TRS Forum Moderator
Supporting Member
U.S. Military - Veteran
TRS 20th Anniversary
VAGABOND
TRS Event Participant
GMRS Radio License
Joined
Feb 7, 2016
Messages
15,202
Reaction score
16,340
Points
113
Age
59
Location
Wellford, SC
Vehicle Year
1993
Make / Model
Ford Ranger
Engine Type
3.0 V6
Engine Size
3.0L
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Total Lift
6"
Tire Size
35"
My credo
In theory, theory and practice are the same. In practice, they are different.
Even with a good tabbed washer, it is wise to hold the inner locknut while tightening the outer one. It takes about 7 hands, the coordination of a surgeon and strength of a gorilla to do it. But it can be done.
 

BlackBII

Ranger Custom
Article Contributor
OTOTM Winner
TRS Banner 2010-2011
Truck of Month
Joined
Aug 14, 2007
Messages
7,895
Reaction score
982
Points
113
Location
UT
Vehicle Year
1989
Make / Model
Ford
Engine Type
4.0 V6
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Total Lift
5
Tire Size
33
@97Ranger3.0

I'm using Jeep Warn hubs. I don't remember which nuts were which... I had a bin full of them. I can pull my wheel off and look, but I do recall having some that were thicker than others. I believe it was the parts store Dorman ones that were too thick, so I got some originals from a junkyard.

How did you manage to wreck a washer like that???
 

Sponsored Ad


Sponsored Ad

Staff online

Member & Vendor Upgrades

For a small yearly donation, you can support this forum and receive a 'Supporting Member' banner, or become a 'Supporting Vendor' and promote your products here. Click the banner to find out how.

Truck of The Month


Kirby N.
March Truck of The Month

Recently Featured

Want to see your truck here? Share your photos and details in the forum.

Follow TRS On Instagram

TRS Events

25th Anniversary Sponsors

Check Out The TRS Store


Sponsored Ad


Sponsored Ad

Sponsored Ad


Amazon Deals

Top