Distributor and Power Problems

SamFisher · Oct 3, 2015

Idle and Power Problems

I just bought an 1987 Ranger STX 2.9 liter 5 speed. When I bought it is had an valve cover leak from a broken bolt. But was still able to test drive it. She ran fine, just leaked oil. So I towed it 200 miles home. Got the bolt out, and new gasket. Went for a test drive, no power. So I thought the timing was off, which is was, because there is no bolt or hold down plate on the distributor. Would someone please get me the measurements for the hold down plate and bolt. And would anyone know why she is jittery when driving and no power in 3rd gear. Thanks

kimcrwbr1 · Oct 4, 2015

The 1987 has a knock senser do you have all the sensers connected? Find the spout jumper and start the motor and disconnect the spout before setting ignition timing at 10 DBTDC. Lock the distributor down and check the timing again then connect the spout jumper. How old are the tuneup parts? Install new plugs, cap, rotor, PCV and plug wires. Be sure and disconnect the battery to reset the computer and clean the IAT intake air temp senser with electrical cleaner or rubbing alcohol do not use solvent. It wouldnt hurt to replace plug wires so you know they are good also. Once you get all that stuff done then you can troubleshoot if necessary. You can go to the bone yard and get the hold down clamp and bolt for a minimum charge might want to grab another knock senser while there. It is in the block by the starter just be careful as they are a sensitive item it must be a 86 or 87 2.9.

SamFisher · Oct 4, 2015

I got a bolt and hold down plate for the distributor. And got the timing down. But she still has no acceleration power. The coil, distributor(which is probably why it was missing), plugs, wires are new. The fuel pressure at the rail when idling is 32 lbs. Not sure what it is suppose to be.

kimcrwbr1 · Oct 5, 2015

Did you disconnect the battery for at least 1/2 an hour? Make sure all the sensers are connected and put the timing light on it. Have someone tap on the block with a wrench next to the knock senser the timing should retard with the tapping. Do not tap on the senser they are brittle. Go to the tech library there is a section on pulling the codes.

SamFisher · Oct 5, 2015

The check engine light isnt on. That should mean the sensors are all working right??

SamFisher · Oct 5, 2015

Well, as it turns out, there is no check engine light on this truck. So I am a dumb ass. I will see if I can get my hands on a test lamp, and check the codes.

adsm08 · Oct 5, 2015

Did you unplug the SPOUT when you set the timing. Leaving that in will cause most of the things you have described.

SamFisher · Oct 5, 2015

I just bought a code reader from Autozone. And the codes the come up are 18, 33, and 25. 33 is the EGR, and 25 is the knock sensor wasnt detected when I floored it during the test. 18 is the tachometer. Which that one doesnt make sense, because my tach works.

kimcrwbr1 · Oct 5, 2015

Have you gone through the wiring yet? Inspect for and bare burnt or broken wires especially around the manifolds. Pull all the connectors apart and clean with electrical cleaner then put back together with dielectric grease. Erase the memory and then reset the computer by disconnecting the battery for 30 minutes. Once everything is all back together then run the codes again after running the motor for 20 minutes at medium speeds on a short road trip. Allways fix the lowest number first and 18 is probagly in the memory when you pulled the spout wire. The connectors for the knock senser can be real greasy and the wire can melt on the exhaust manifold clean and inspect thoroughly. To test the EGR while the engine is ideling apply vacume pressure to the egr valve the engine should stall.

SamFisher · Oct 6, 2015

With spout disconnected the time is sitting at like 10 degrees maybe 10.25. When spout is reconnected the timing goes to 29 degrees. I checked the spout wiring and it looks pretty good. I unhooked the battery for over an hour to clear the codes. But 18 still comes back. If the spout wire was grounded, would the timing still advance back to 29 degrees or would it do something else?? And the idle is uneven and rough still when cold.

SamFisher · Oct 6, 2015

While I cant find a knock sensor. So I dont know what to do. All the junk yards around here have crushed anything that is 1990 and older. Autozone and advance dont have it and cant get it. So I think I might be screwed. If you guy have any suggestions, that would be nice. Thanks.

kimcrwbr1 · Oct 6, 2015

Did you erase the memory also? To erase the memory start the KOEO test and when it starts sending codes turn the test off and it will erase the memory. Did you try tapping on the block next to the knock senser and see if the timing retards? Get a gasket for the throttle body and just pull it off and soak it good with carb cleaner after removing the idle air control and throttle position senser. The blast it good with high pressure water. If it is full of carbon crap the PCV has been neglected. Change the PCV with oil changes they are cheap. You dont need to reset the computer after you erase the memory!

ratdude747 · Oct 6, 2015

SamFisher said:
While I cant find a knock sensor. So I dont know what to do. All the junk yards around here have crushed anything that is 1990 and older. Autozone and advance dont have it and cant get it. So I think I might be screwed. If you guy have any suggestions, that would be nice. Thanks.

The junk yards around me have some stuff that old... I saw a couple of Gen 1.5 (or is it gen 2, whatever was 1989-1992) and a gen one at the louisville pull-a-part a month ago (had to pull a rear strut/knuckle/drum assembly for my wife's 2003 taurus).

If there is one near you, check thier site, they have vehicle listings (and a price table for parts, they sell them very cheap).

IIRC there is another you-pull-it type junk yard near me (5C Auto Parts) in Austin, IN that also had a lot of old stuff along with newer stuff. Even a couple old Gen 1 Mustangs :icon_surprised:

.

So yeah, there are yards with these trucks. Hard to find? Ya. Impossible? Nope.

kimcrwbr1 · Oct 6, 2015

You need a 1986 or 1987 for the knock senser ranger or bronco-2 with the 2.9

SamFisher · Oct 6, 2015

I found this. It says that it is a direct replacement. Has the right OEM # and everything. Not sure if I should buy one?? Or should I just call every salvage yard in driving range?? http://www.aliexpress.com/item/KS60-E6TF12A699AA-E6TZ12A699A-for-FORD-LINCOLN-KNOCK-SENSOR-E6TF-12A699-AA-E6TZ-12A699-A/1414337089.html

Distributor and Power Problems

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