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Regearing spare axles and other Qs


bamfslap

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I have a spare Explorer 8.8 with 4.10 and a spare D35 TTB with 3.73. I know it's possible with the front to drop it off to be regeared, but what about the rear? I've heard it has to be in the vehicle, something about the pinion angle. Or was I told bad info?

Also, going to 4.56s will I need new carriers (rear and front)? I also plan to have an aussie locker installed in the front at the same time. What other things should I supply the installers to keep the cost down.

This way I can just drop off my spare stuff then swap them over in my spare time. What do you guys think, thanks :beer:
 


Captain Ledd

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The rear can absolutely be regeared while in or outside the vehicle.

The pinion angle in question has to do with where the pinion points toward/in relation to the output of the transfercase (or transmission). Some are pointed more upwards, some more level. It depends on some u-joint style factors (click here for tech article). So setting the pinion angle on the axle so it stays that way has to do more with mounting brackets than the gears. I can't remember the exact degree number, but if you have the new axle and your original axle both on level surfaces (it makes it easier), set up and adjust the brackets and pinion angle the same as the old axle. If the old one worked in that position, so should the new.

Short version: For Rangers, the angular difference between the spring mounting pads, and the pinion flange needs to be the same.

Example: if you measure 15° difference between the top of the spring pads and the face of the pinion flange, that is what you need on the new axle. Regardless of the initial position. You could weld it upside down and sideways if you want, as long as that angular difference between the two is accurately maintained.

Here's a good article to get you started.

http://www.drivetrain.com/parts_catalog/drivetrain/driveline_angles_and_phasing_problems.html

Not everyone is blessed with vehicular knowledge from the umbilical cord. You've made the effort to do some research on your own, which we thank you immensely. Too many people just ask a profoundly pen-ended "how" and expect an easy answer. If you still don't feel comfortable after asking around or are a little suspicious of information don't be afraid to ask.
 
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bamfslap

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That makes a ton of sense now. Seems relatively simple. Thank you for the quick reply!

I always try to research as much as possible and if I still can't find the info, that's when I ask. Makes it easier on everyone.
 

bamfslap

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Well I have decided to regear myself. I know it's generally better to leave it to the pros but I'll have the axle sitting in my warm basement so I'll have all the time I need to tinker around with. I have an understanding on how to do it, will learn as I go, and I plan on being patient. It might take me a dozen times but as long as the final paint test checks out, that's all that matters, yeah? I don't mind buying tools. Would rather buy tools than labor.
 

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Captain Ledd

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Well I have decided to regear myself. I know it's generally better to leave it to the pros but I'll have the axle sitting in my warm basement so I'll have all the time I need to tinker around with. I have an understanding on how to do it, will learn as I go, and I plan on being patient. It might take me a dozen times but as long as the final paint test checks out, that's all that matters, yeah? I don't mind buying tools. Would rather buy tools than labor.
Awesome! :icon_thumby: Re-gearing my axle was one of the more challenging things I've done. I didn't start out with any reference shims in mine, so I had to take it apart thousands of times before I got it right. Really, it's not difficult, but it's tedious. And you have to be pretty careful to make absolutely certain things are right.

Mine's been in for close to 20,000 miles now. Never done one before, still going strong.
 

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