SOHC Timing Chain Rattle & Oil Viscosity

ranger_rick · Apr 24, 2014

My 106,xxx 4.0L SOHC has the dreaded timing chain rattle (rattles at start up and 2500-3500 rpm)

I came across this thread (see below) and i want to give it a try.

http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=13532

But i am concerned that 10w40 might be too heavy...i dont want to create a problem by trying to solve a problem.

a little back ground:

the engine doesnt burn oil and i am currently running mobil 1 full syn 5w/30. I switched to full syn (last fall) after running dino for many many miles and initially it did make a difference but now the rattle is back.

I noticed that during the winter months (i live in upstate new york) that the rattle wasnt as pronounced at either start up or after warming nor was it present at 2500-3500 rpm

now that spring is here and the morning temps are above 30º there is that nasty rattle and it doesnt matter if it warm or not the rattle is always there at 2500-3500 (much worse with engine is warm)

so i started thinking that maybe switching to heavy weight high end syn might be good idea...

the obvious choice would be to try 10/30 but i checked the specs of mobile 1 syn and amsoil there isnt much viscosity difference (@100 or @40) between a 5/30 and 10/30

maybe 5/40? or go for glory with 10/40

thank you in advance RR

gw33gp · Apr 24, 2014

I don't know if higher viscosity oil will help. It is certainly worth a try. I know, at start up, the timing chain tensioners provide mechanical tension until the oil pressure builds up. Once the oil pressure is up, it primarily provides the tension.

I know of no major drawbacks to using higher viscosity oil. It can contribute to a longer oil pressure build up time when starting the engine. Using a good oil filter with a anti-drain valve helps with that.

I ran synthetic 20W-50 in my 89 Ranger with the 2.9L engine from the first oil change until I sold it, to a co-worker, with almost 200,000 miles on it. That engine still ran as good or better than it did when it was new. It did not use any more oil either. The only slight drawback I encountered was the engine would crank slower at low temperatures (less than 30 degrees) due to the 20W-50 oil. However, it would always start. The reason I ran higher viscosity oil was I four wheeled with it in the hot southwest desert a lot and I towed my race car all over the country with it. I ran that engine hard and felt it needed the higher viscosity oil.

I am over 168K miles with my current 4.0 SOHC powered Ranger. I am starting to increase the viscosity of the oil because I know there is more clearance in the bearings and could use a little increased viscosity to help maintain oil pressure. I noticed that after towing at 72 mph for a long distance, the oil pressure light will start to come on when starting from a stop as the rpm drops a little as I let out on the clutch. Increasing the oil viscosity has help reduce that problem.

If you can find 5W-40 oil. Give it a try. That should give you quick oil pressure at start up yet provide higher viscosity as it warms up. I would not be afraid to experiment a little. Then again, my job is R&D.

I recently changed my timing chain tensioners because I was getting a strange noise at start up. I found a good deal on the tensioners, so I thought it was time to change them. I later realized it was the serpentine belt tensioner pulley bearing was causing the noise.

ranger_rick · Apr 24, 2014

i am good with a wrench but replacing the tensioners is probably out of my league. pulling the engine is not going to happen :sad:

today, i have been paying extra close attention to my start ups and rattles

the air temps were low 30ºF this a.m. and at this time its approx 48º F

my start ups this a.m. and brief commute there was little audible noise..the truck was warmed for approx 10 minutes before starting out

now that air temp has warmed up a bit i am starting to get the rattle at the 2500-3000 RPM....sounds like someone is shaking a can of pennys

my premise is that at the with air temp and the engine relatively cold (10 minute warm up?) that the oil is behaving "heavier"

does that make sense??

RR

Tee Rev · Apr 24, 2014

My 06 started to develop a slight chain rattle at 140,000kms(87,000miles)
I decided to try some Lucas oil stabilizer with the Lucas 5w30 I was running.
After an oil change without the stabilizer, the rattle would return after about 1000kms. With the Stabilizer it would last to 6000kms. I just learned to change the oil & add the stabilizer every time the rattle would start.

ranger_rick · Apr 24, 2014

i wonder if i should just try an oil additive in the short term? the current oil has less than 2000 miles on it...but did live thru a hard winter...
RR

bigmark303 · Apr 24, 2014

It is the plastic that the tensioners themselves are made from that deteriorates and gives way. A thicker oil will indeed cover up the slight rattle of the chain slapping the guides but the slack is still there and the damage is done if you are hearing noise from the timing chain.

All of Fords tensioners suffer a similar fate. Ford rated them in three grades. The third being the revised better versions with metal backing plates. The engine oil is absorbed by the plastic and breaks it down some very fast and others last very long.

The chains end up eating into the tensioners and guides until the plastic splits and breaks apart. All of Fords OHC designs have this issue when looking at the long haul 150,000mi and over. The triton engines seem to be the better of the OHC Ford engines that get away with this tensioner/guide issue.

ranger_rick · Apr 24, 2014

yes..thank you...much information on the subject on this site as well as others...

a change in oil viscosity....is at best...a placebo :sad:

i wish it it did fix it :sad:

i dont have the means, space or time to fix it properly

needless to say...i decided to try some STP snot and the rattle is barely audible ..of course its is still there i doubt i fixed the issue but it definitely sounds better..lol

and i ordered some moly 5w40

rr

coopab · Jun 23, 2014

Timing chain replacement without pulling engine

ranger_rick said:
i am good with a wrench but replacing the tensioners is probably out of my league. pulling the engine is not going to happen

Here are two links to EBSCO Host information on doing the timing chain and timing chain guide replacement in the vehicle

I previewed the links and they worked for me, but I'm logged onto my local public library where I can get this information. If they don't work for you I can provide PDF versions of the two tutorials.

Timing Chain Removal and Installation

Front Engine Cover Removal

The links bring you to the EBSCO Host login page. If your public library subscribes to the same service as mine (Jacob Edwards Library in Southbridge, MA) you may be able to enter your library
card number to gain access to the linked information.

Here are links to th PDF files
Timing Chain and Guides

Front engine cover

gw33gp · Jun 24, 2014

This information you provided is for the push rod 4.0 (OHV). The discussion on this thread is on the SOHC 4.0. The timing chain system on these two engines are completely different.

SOHC Timing Chain Rattle & Oil Viscosity

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