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Cam synchronizer emergency!


RangerCamp

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My truck is a 96 4.0L Ranger. The dreaded chirp/squeak finally started last week so I ordered a new camshaft synchronizer from RockAuto and brought it to my regular mechanic, who will put on parts I supply (locally any parts are outrageously priced.) Big problem though, he says they tried everything and the old synchro is jammed in the block and they can't get it out! Said it would not budge, that the aluminum on iron is like fused. Everyone on these forums seems to have eventually managed to get it out though, as nothing but varnish and crud (and the angled gear) is keeping it in there really. They did remove the upper intake to gain access, but did not remove the hood. They gave up and said to go any harder at it would probably break it, and require dropping the oil pan- a $$$ job. Does that sound reasonable? Most people seem to have success getting at it from the top. Maybe these guys just don't know the tricks for these? I asked them to oil the old one before putting the sensor back on but...

I am desperate now because barely 5 miles later the squeak is 100 times worse! Really loud almost like a siren. It was just a little chirp 2 weeks ago. This makes me think it's really on the brink of failing and not just wearing out slowly. I do not want to kill this motor which is well maintained and has only 170 KM on it. Any advice?? I can't even see the part to consider going at it though I do have the alignment tool and the job doesn't seem that crazy but I can't even see the thing and have no proper tools to deal with any sort of hiccup, just ordinary ratchets etc. Help!!
 


RonD

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If you google: how to remove frozen distributor ford

You will get some ideas, same issue, even though the 4.0l never had a distributor.

Aluminum expands faster than cast iron when heated, synchro is aluminum, block is cast iron, so it can get wedged in there pretty tight.

If you heat up the block around the synchro and then cool only the synchro with compressed air, aluminum also shrinks faster than cast iron :), it might break free.
So drive the engine until warmed up, shut it down then blast the synchro with cold air to cool it down, try to break it free that way.

I don't think dropping the oil pan would help much, with oil pump removed you would only have access to the pump shaft and pounding on that would only shear off the key holding the cam gear on, and push up the center shaft on the synchro, body would still be stuck.
 
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RangerCamp

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Thank you so much for this reply. It is helpful. I called the mechanic back and they will keep the truck for a few days or more (I am going on a trip out east anyway) to try all the tricks for loosening the stuck synchro, in particular torch and cooling tricks, and letting penetrating oil soak for an extended period, etc.

I think they mentioned dropping the oil pan because if they break the old synchro by pounding on it or whatever, pieces might fall in and need to be removed by dropping the pan. I really hope it doesn't come to that.
 

BRUTUS_T_HOG

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I just twist them. It's the dried out o-ring that gets stuck you have to twist it to break the o-ring loose
 

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