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Runs Rich on idle and stalls


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i have a 00 3.0 v6 ranger when i first start it, it runs good for twenty seconds or so then it starts to bog out and unless i stay on the gas it will sputter and die and it smells bad like gas. but when i turn it of and turn it on it starts up perfect like nothing was wrong then in ten seconds the same thing happens but when the engine is warmed up it doesn't stall or anything
please help
 


Big Jim M

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Could be the temp switch. There is a temp sensor for the gauge and another one that is a switch.. The temp switch tells the computer the engine is warm enough for a lean/advanced timing setup. If the switch thinks the engine is warm when it actually is cold you get these kind of problems.
Big JIm
 
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thanks for the reply and where would i look for that and what would i look to buy to replace it because i found nothing online about temp switches its all temp sensors any possibility this could happen cause of my intake system or dual exhaust would any of that mess this up
 

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thanks for the reply and where would i look for that and what would i look to buy to replace it because i found nothing online about temp switches its all temp sensors any possibility this could happen cause of my intake system or dual exhaust would any of that mess this up
If you have one of the K&N type filters the MAF sensors tend to get oil fowled. Try cleaning your MAF sensor. You can buy cleaner for them at the auto parts store.
 

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thanks for the reply and where would i look for that and what would i look to buy to replace it because i found nothing online about temp switches its all temp sensors any possibility this could happen cause of my intake system or dual exhaust would any of that mess this up
It's not a switch it is a sensor the Engine coolant Temperature sensor or ECT. It is located at the front of your intake manifold on the drivers side near the thermostat housing.
 

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Well...no!

It's not a switch it is a sensor the Engine coolant Temperature sensor or ECT. It is located at the front of your intake manifold on the drivers side near the thermostat housing.
Actually regardless of the name it IS a switch. It doesn't send variable signals such as a temp sensor does. What it does is either send NOTHING or the pure signal.
So as the temp increases to a certain temperature the sensor suddenly opens and allows the signal to pass.. thus the term "switch". It is either on or off...go or no go. So it is not a true sensor...it is a switch.
The thing tells the computer only two things.. in effect it says "cold" or "hot"
the switch doesn't say anything else to the computer.
Big JIm:wub::hottubfun:
 

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Actually regardless of the name it IS a switch. It doesn't send variable signals such as a temp sensor does. What it does is either send NOTHING or the pure signal.
So as the temp increases to a certain temperature the sensor suddenly opens and allows the signal to pass.. thus the term "switch". It is either on or off...go or no go. So it is not a true sensor...it is a switch.
The thing tells the computer only two things.. in effect it says "cold" or "hot"
the switch doesn't say anything else to the computer.
Big JIm:wub::hottubfun:
Geeez there is just absolutley no winning with you is there? Give it up dude. If you want to help people out help them out. All you just did was possibly confuse the heck out of someone. Nowhere and I mean NOWHERE will you find this "switch" labled in any parts database. It is call a ECT sensor KEYWORD SENSOR. If you go to the parts store you will have to use the word SENSOR in order to get the part you need. I don't care if you want to get technical but in order to help the guy out you need to call it the right name so he gets the right part.

Why do they call it a toothbrush instead of a teethbrush?

Why is it called cargo when transported by ship?

Why is called a shipment when transported by a car?
 

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Actually the CTS IS a variable resistance thermister. It sends a variable signal to the ECU. It is absolutly not a switch. Fuel air ratio is adjusted via the input from this and other sensors. The ECU provides a constant reference voltage to the sensor. As the temp rises the sensor's resistance drops. There also is a definite voltage to the ECU from this sensor whether the engine is hot or cold and everything in between. Therefore it can not be just on or off.
 
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thanks for the reply's ill try the sensor and clean the maf tomorrow ill keep you posted and i also heard it could be because of my exhaust its dual all the way from the exhaust manifold back i didnt know if the lower backpressure or anything would mess up the 02 sensors and cause that problem any other help is appreciated
 
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sorry i forgot to ask in the last post but since my temp guage works could it still be my temp sensor
 

cbxer55

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Absolutely! They are two different sensors. The one for the ECT is located right next to the thermostat housing, on the drivers side of the intake. The one for the "gauge" is mounted on an extension, which sticks out in front of the thermostat housing.

The ECT has a two wire connector. The "gauge" has a one wire plug. THey serve two different purposes. I got my ECT from Auto Zone for $15.99.
 
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well i replaced the sensor and got the maf cleaner and it didnt help at all im showing o2 codes when they were read forgot excacty which ones but is it possible that this is happening cause of my dual exhaust. its straight dual 2.5 from the headers back could this mess up my o2 sensor readings or any other suggestions on things to try would be great
 

cbxer55

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well i replaced the sensor and got the maf cleaner and it didnt help at all im showing o2 codes when they were read forgot excacty which ones but is it possible that this is happening cause of my dual exhaust. its straight dual 2.5 from the headers back could this mess up my o2 sensor readings or any other suggestions on things to try would be great
Did your troubles occur immediately after making the exhaust change? If so than its likely the problem. But if the shop that did the exhaust knew what they were doing and were reputable, I doubt it.

You should have duel converters, one in each side. There would then need to be O2 sensors before and after each converter. If done this way it is not likely the culprit.

Another item that has a lot to do with idle is the IAC, or Idle Air Control Motor. It sits on top of the intake right above the throttle plate. These get dirty and gunked up, I suspect from EGR gasses. In any event you can remove this, clean it and lubricate it, then re-install. It does not take long and only has two 5/16 bolts and one connector. After doing this, when your engine is idling properly, pull the connector. It should either drop to a real low idle, or die. If it does so then it is properly functioning.

Another idle related sensor is the IAT, or Inlet Air Temperature Sensor. Mine was bad, and sending a signal "IAT high input". It is easy to replace and costed $13.99 at Auto Zone.

Is your DPFE that controls the EGR valve the old metal unit. This sits on the front of the manifold, abd has two vacuum hoses and one connector. The metal one corrodes internally and cause malfunctions of the EGR valve that may or may not light the Check Engine Light. Again AutoZone has a plastic replacement for $52.99. This fixed an EGR related latent (no light but still throwing a code) code my truck was showing, and fixed a slight rough idle.

The last is the TPS or Throttle Position Sensor, on the side of the manifold opposte the throttle linkage. It is imperative this unit send a signal to the ECU that the throttle is closed when idling or starting. If it does not, the ECU will read that you have your foot on the gas and inject too much fuel.

I replaced all of these sensors last month (TPS, IAC, IAT, ECT and DPFE) trying to fix a starting problem. Eventually what ended up fixing the problem completely was a tank full of strong fuel injector cleaner. Since adding that to a full tank, all problems have gone away, and it starts first turn of the key every time.
 
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