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Found The Problem with my 2.0


gungfudan

gungfudan

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Mark_88 said:
I've heard a few variations on that. One of them involved changing the oil out at short intervals for the first 3,000 miles...

I can't remember the exact sequence but I recall something like 100 miles for the first complete oil change. This is for new engines/parts so any filings that may come off in the initial break in will be removed...these are usually very fine particles that can hang in the oil as opposed to sinking to the bottom of the oil pan.

The next interval was 500 miles...then again at 3,000 miles where the regular service begins.

This also includes avoiding high revs during the first 3,000 miles...

However, I've actually read a completely different version that essentially said let er rip from the start.

The only thing I remember was seeing "break in grease" coating the head parts of one that I had done years ago. It was a special grease for that period of break in.

However...others may offer a more experienced guideline to follow because I only ever broke in one rebuilt and one new engine...but I did follow the oil change pattern as mentioned above.
Click to expand...
What do you think about his break in proceeder? http://www.rpmrons.com/enginestartup.html
 


Mark_88

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Not particularly high in zinc, but you can buy break in grease at most auto parts stores. I'm pretty sure I had some or something that was deemed to be break in grease...probably correct term is break-in...

I just looked it up and it is used primarily to lubricate engine parts on the first start up because typically there is no oil circulating and that is a critical time for engine wear. It's like when we first start an engine in the morning...there is a bit of lag time between the first squirt of oil and the initial moving of parts...

I just found this list of break-in tips...might help ease your mind a bit if you follow this.

http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/wiki/Camshaft_install_tips_and_tricks

This is more for the camshaft than piston rings. Blow-by is typically the result of worn rings and I'm not sure what the cylinders get treated with if anything. They are oiled, as far as I can tell, by the splashing of the crankshaft in the oil pan and sloshing it upwards...unless there is an oil spray directed at the cylinder...in which case I would need to do a bit more searching and reading.
 

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Zinc is for pre-80's engines, not really needed on new materials, and it was mainly for lowering OHV cam wear, your OHC wouldn't need it.
Just my opinion though.

Yes, all the bearings and valve train should have assembly lube from rebuild.
Prior to starting the first time disable spark and crank the engine a few times(5 or 6) to fill the filter and oil passages with oil.

Break in doesn't take all that long, I would use 30w oil, you don't need multi-weight.
After starting let engine idle for 15minutes or so to get it up to operating temp, 190degF, check for leaks, coolant or oil.
Shut off engine and fix any leaks if found.
During this time, idling, the rings are seating as are any new parts, so this will generate the most debris.
Then drive it normally, up a few hills if possible to load the engine.
At 50-100 miles any defects in parts or assembly will have shown up, if all is well, then change the oil and filter, drain oil warm to get out most of the debris, then refill with your preferred brand and weight.
Break in done
 
Last edited:

Mark_88

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gungfudan said:
What do you think about his break in proceeder? http://www.rpmrons.com/enginestartup.html
Click to expand...
It's probably OK to do that but it seems a bit overboard from what I'm familiar with. I do believe I read that same document about ten years ago and may have tried it myself at some point...but like I mentioned, I never had the bottom end rebuilt so it may be more important to do it like that than what I've done.

When I bought my new 1989 Tempo off the dealership I think I followed something like that...but really don't remember that far back...and that was probably the only time I'd have done something so involved.

I would try it if you have someone to sit and monitor the oil pressure and temperature just to be sure...it sounds very similar to what I mentioned before but what RonD mentioned is probably closer to what you should be worried about...just change the oil after the initial run and warmup to remove any fine debris that may be shaved off during the first startup...

If you want to be more involved like the document I don't think it will actually hurt the engine to do that...but I wouldn't worry too much if you don't follow it to the letter as long as you make sure there are no leaks or discoloration in the fluids and you use the correct oil...

Outside of that I think it becomes wishful thinking that any other actions may give your engine a better start out in life...
 
gungfudan

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Mark_88 said:
It's probably OK to do that but it seems a bit overboard from what I'm familiar with. I do believe I read that same document about ten years ago and may have tried it myself at some point...but like I mentioned, I never had the bottom end rebuilt so it may be more important to do it like that than what I've done.

When I bought my new 1989 Tempo off the dealership I think I followed something like that...but really don't remember that far back...and that was probably the only time I'd have done something so involved.

I would try it if you have someone to sit and monitor the oil pressure and temperature just to be sure...it sounds very similar to what I mentioned before but what RonD mentioned is probably closer to what you should be worried about...just change the oil after the initial run and warmup to remove any fine debris that may be shaved off during the first startup...

If you want to be more involved like the document I don't think it will actually hurt the engine to do that...but I wouldn't worry too much if you don't follow it to the letter as long as you make sure there are no leaks or discoloration in the fluids and you use the correct oil...

Outside of that I think it becomes wishful thinking that any other actions may give your engine a better start out in life...
Click to expand...
I think I am going to do what RonD said. minus the hills because we really don't have any on the gulf coast. I really want this engine to last. I think the originally did not clock the rings right
Thanks for your response.
 

Mark_88

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You're welcome. I know you are worried about the longevity and that's understandable. I remember the feeling when my $600+ head cracked because I blocked part of the rad and it overheated...it was a very distressing event.

All because I booked my truck in for some front end work and the shop ordered the wrong parts so I was late for work...haste makes waste as the saying goes.

Anyway...here's hoping that it lasts...
 

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done
 
Last edited:
gungfudan

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Mark_88 said:
You're welcome. I know you are worried about the longevity and that's understandable. I remember the feeling when my $600+ head cracked because I blocked part of the rad and it overheated...it was a very distressing event.

All because I booked my truck in for some front end work and the shop ordered the wrong parts so I was late for work...haste makes waste as the saying goes.

Anyway...here's hoping that it lasts...
Click to expand...
Do you know what gauge wire they use on the 2.0L? I need to splice/replace some.
Also do you know where to get a new clutch fan with the blades or do you know of a good after market blade brand?
 
Last edited:

Mark_88

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gungfudan said:
Do you know what gauge wire they use on the 2.0L? I need to splice/replace some.
Also do you know where to get a new clutch fan with the blades or do you know of a good after market blade brand?
Click to expand...
What wires do you need to splice? I think most of the harness except for the main power feed and the battery cables were either 14 or 16 gauge wire. You can always cut a section of one of them out and bring it to the store as a sample.

Not sure about the clutch fan manufacturers...most of what we see today is MIC (made in China) and sold via NAPA or other parts distributors...LMC Truck has the most comprehensive parts inventory that I've seen...and maybe Rock Auto...

LMC has them listed for around $50...

http://www.lmctruck.com/icatalog/FR/full.aspx?Page=122

No brand names listed so probably MIC...
 
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