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Manual hubs on a 2001+ Ranger


Jim Oaks

Jim Oaks

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We have an article on swapping the later hubs and axles from a 2001+ Ranger on to a 1998-2000 Ranger to get rid of the vacuum hubs, and switch to a live axle:

http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/99hubswap.shtml

So in theory, shouldn't you be able to swap the 1998-2000 hubs and axles on to a 2001+ Ranger, and then buy the manual hub kit to have manual hubs on your 2001+ Ranger?

Anyone done it??
 


adsm08

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Perfectly doable, and even more pointless than it is possible. It costs hundreds of dollars, adds a failure point to each side, and saves almost nothing on fuel and wear. The estimated fuel cost of the live axle over the PVH setup was .2 MPG, that is the difference between head wind or tail wind.
 
Jim Oaks

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Ford Ranger
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4.0 V6
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4.0 / 2.3 Ecoboost
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Automatic
2WD / 4WD
4WD
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6-inches
Tire Size
33x12.50x15
But what if you wanted a locker, and didn't always want the front locked up with the live axle?
 
gw33gp

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Scott told me he would not do it again. He said it wasn't worth the cost and effort. I was considering doing it before Scott did. After investigating what was needed to do it; the cost of it and having to use smaller bearings (potential failure point) prevented me from making the switch.
I would still like to have unlocking hubs. Recently my front driveshaft CV joint failed due to the rubber boot cracking and losing most of the lube. I think that was due to it spinning all the time. I ended up having to get a new front driveshaft and that wasn't cheap. I also drove my Ranger several weeks without the front driveshaft and could very much feel the improvement in acceleration. It was also smoother (less vibration) at freeway speeds and got noticeably better gas mileage around town. Gas mileage improvement on long trips was not noticeable. I think the main factor that prevents me from switching is having to go to smaller bearings.
 
85_Ranger4x4

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Jim Oaks said:
But what if you wanted a locker, and didn't always want the front locked up with the live axle?
Click to expand...
How does a the cost of a selective locker compare with a lunchbox and all the conversion parts? I know they are pricey but all the conversion parts plus a lunchbox would have to come close to rivaling it. And (IMO) the ultimate fix would still be a SAS with real lockouts which costwise could still be in the running too.

From what I understand the manual hub kits are not overly strong, may not be the greatest with a locker anyway. Never been around them at all though.

gw33gp, they make disconnect kits to pull a truck behind a motor home, I wonder if it could be adapted to the front driveshaft :icon_confused:

And on the flipside, the u-joints in my D35 were stuck in one position because they never turned... so it kinda goes both ways. The driveshaft even has a detent in the pinion end u-joint from where it always sat.
 
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