88 Bronco 2 running sluggish

wildbill23c · Sep 11, 2017

Seems to lose power going up hills, drives ok on flat ground. At a stop it shakes but once you start moving its fine till you hit a hill then starts losing power. When you take off from a stop it makes a weird chugging/sloshing sound. Can't seem to figure out what its doing. It has started to smoke worse now as a result. Fuel pressure regulator? Had it replaced last year when I had about $3,000 in other work done. Would hope it would have lasted longer than that if it is the regulator.

BlackBII · Sep 11, 2017

wildbill23c said:
It has started to smoke worse now as a result.

What color is the smoke?

Have you checked the fuel pressure and the compression?

RayInStl · Sep 11, 2017

Take the vacuum line off the regulator and see if it smells like gas.

Other than that, check for vacuum leaks. It would have to be pretty severe to cause your symptoms.

wildbill23c · Sep 11, 2017

Pulled the line off the pressure regulator and it smelled of gas, replaced regulator, still same symptoms, which I guess I'm stuck with as the vacuum leak is pretty large at the brake booster. The rubber grommet is cracked and the plastic piece that goes into that and to the hose over to the intake vacuum line tee won't seat properly, so far I haven't been able to figure out how to fix that grommet problem.

BlackBII · Sep 11, 2017

Dorman makes the grommet and check valve for the brake booster. AutoZone/Oreilly will have them in the Help! section.

Dorman 80189

wildbill23c · Sep 11, 2017

Got the grommet replaced, and put in a check valve. That isn't the problem, still not running properly. Made an appointment for Thursday at a shop here in town. Hopefully its something quick and simple its my only vehicle.

wildbill23c · Sep 11, 2017

After going over everything I could think of, I'm wondering if the catalytic converter is plugged up. Guess I'll find out Thursday. Looks like the original, and I'm guessing 145k miles on it, since it doesn't have the 6th digit.

RayInStl · Sep 12, 2017

Another member had a similar problem that was caused by the timing being off. Might check that before you head to a mechanic.

alwaysFlOoReD · Sep 12, 2017

If it's running rich, and there is a return line to the tank [I don't know offhand], make sure the return line isn't plugged or kinked.

wildbill23c · Sep 19, 2017

Last 2 spark plugs were extremely carbon fouled causing it to run on 4 cylinders. The damn oil burning is getting worse.

Not too sure about this mechanic and I will certainly not be going back there. Mechanic says the timing chain has 10 degrees of slack in it? How the hell do you figure that out especially since they didn't pull the timing cover (checked all the bolts and none of them were touched, still caked in oil, so they wouldn't have a clue if the timing chain was lose).

So, it once again runs great, guess I'll just carry an extra set of plugs with me HAHA!!!

On another note, looking at doing an engine replacement this coming spring, I have a friend that is willing to help that has the engine hoist and tools. Just going to buy a long block and start picking up a few items that are bolt on so its all ready to go for spring. I need to find a 2nd vehicle first, this is why I'm putting off the replacement.

Autozone shows 3 different engine block brands, any one better than the other? Seems like they all have a 3 year warranty on the long blocks. ~$2200 for a long block and $500 cash to my friend for his help seems pretty reasonable to have a vehicle that's ready to go another 100k+ and doesn't burn oil faster than fuel LOL.

BlackBII · Sep 19, 2017

For $2,200 you could do 3 4.0 swaps.

Why not just pull the one that's in there and have it rebuilt or rebuild it yourself? Even if you have someone do it for you it shouldn't be more than ~$800

wildbill23c · Sep 19, 2017

I would rather keep the proper engine in the vehicle. There's nothing wrong with the 2.9L V6. The 4.0L V6's are ridiculous gas hogs, I've had a Ranger and Explorer with that engine, neither could manage more than 19mpg highway, I get 24mpg on the highway with my bronco 2 with the automatic transmission. I'd rather have the fuel economy than the wrong engine installed. Someday when I have time to play around and a 2nd vehicle that allows me to leave the bronco 2 sitting for months I may entertain the 4.0 swap, but until then I just want an easy replacement and be back on the road.

Its $4000+ to have an engine rebuilt by a shop. That's why I'm going with the long block.

BlackBII · Sep 19, 2017

wildbill23c said:
Its $4000+ to have an engine rebuilt by a shop. That's why I'm going with the long block.

Apparently I need to get into the engine rebuilding business.

wildbill23c · Sep 20, 2017

BlackBII said:
Apparently I need to get into the engine rebuilding business.

Obviously. Well the rebuild business consists of over-charging a customer for labor, and doing a 1/2 ass job...at least that's how shops do business around Idaho I guess.

I asked about doing an engine replacement and that cost jumped to about $5-6k...probably getting the same damn engine from Autozone or Oreilly, etc...and then doubling the price and charging $100+ an hour for labor.

This is why I've got a friend that's willing to do the work...who knows by the time I get around to doing the replacement who knows LOL. I've thought about doing a 4.0 swap but seems like a mess trying to get old stuff to work with newer stuff, and I don't trust the 4.0L with the A4LD, went through 2 trannies in a 93 ranger so figure a smaller engine should keep the A4LD in one piece longer LOL.

rusty ol ranger · Sep 22, 2017

If it were me, if your friend is willing and yall have the knowledge, id rebuild the one you got. Then you know its done right. Ive heard quite a few horror stories about autozone remans.

Plus, i would think 2250 would more then cover a master rebuild kit, and any machine work that needs to be done.

As far as the A4LD, even a 2.9 will destroy one if your not careful. But you are making the right descion keeping the 2.9. The 4.0s dont really motivate that much better then a 2.9 (imo) and the extra work isnt worth it.

But, if you choose to redo the 2.9, fork over the money for a set of world product heads, that way you will eliminate really the only big weakness of the 2.9.

88 Bronco 2 running sluggish

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