Installing Radiator IN FRONT of the Support!

shane96ranger · Apr 19, 2013

My factory housing was untapped - but some butthole (me) didn't have the thermostat properly seated when he tightened the bolts and broke it. So now I have one that is tapped. I got the same feeling as well on submerging the sensor. I don't want to either.

Tominator · Apr 19, 2013

LOL! Anyone that denies ever breaking a SBF thermostat housing that way is a damned liar! :icon_thumby:

bobbywalter · Apr 19, 2013

i am glad it sounds cool.

straight thru mufflers i am referring too would be quieter and generally cooler running comparatively. but would sound much different.

i was considering the location of the restrictive mufflers so far away as actually increasing overheating issues you had with your original radiator. if you went to dyno's or stepped up a size or so with the flows you may have cooled the engine enough to have been perfect with the original radiator cooling.

i too like the sound of flowmasters....but flow restriction masters sometimes is a better description.

not staying under 240 with the radiator you had is a big flag to me.

i have full confidence in griffin. i considered the nascar setup, but the actual size of your radiator with the ac demand will benefit with a bigger radiator and as you yourself said power is addictive. if you keep it fat in fuel it should run cool and happy. but you build power or tighten the burn things change fast.

while your in here doing surgery it may be wise to take a minute more and invest a little more work into this all around.

i would not think twice about cutting off and widening the rails from the k member forward so that fitting the charger jewelry up front was a non issue along with a huge fat bastard radiator and ac condensor from a bus

.

just throwing stuff out there

Tominator · Apr 20, 2013

not staying under 240 with the radiator you had is a big flag to me.

In another post I also said that turning the heater blower on full blast brought the temp down to normal and that was on a 98F day and add another 10 or 15 from being on the asphalt Hwy.

...However that was before the SC install and as you might imagine that exasperated the problem.

After I get it running and there is still a problem I will indeed try deleting the mufflers. That would be easy to do and until you chimed in I had not given much thought to that restriction causing heat soak.

Thanks for throwing that in to the mix!

BTW, I'm also using Evans Waterless Coolant.

shane96ranger · Apr 20, 2013

Well, I've had issues with mine running hot as well. I just deleted the A/C because I quit using it over 10 years ago... but when it did work, it was a big struggle with temp control. I put an Edelbrock water pump on it, which helped. My question is though, I run MAC Flowpath mufflers which sound pretty similar to some Flowmasters. Do you consider this design to be restrictive?

Also, this is a video of the sound (at the end). This is right after I started it for the first time after swapping to GT40P heads.

Sent from my Quad Core Acer A210

JoshT · Apr 20, 2013

Tominator said:
BTW, I'm also using Evans Waterless Coolant.

Isn't that part of your cooling issue? The way I understand it those waterless coolants may be better for corrosion control but they don't cool as well.

Tominator · Apr 21, 2013

JoshT said:
Isn't that part of your cooling issue? The way I understand it those waterless coolants may be better for corrosion control but they don't cool as well.

The theory is that the much higher boiling point resists vaporization at hot spots in the motor. As coolant passes through the heads the temp spikes causing the coolant to boil. It's only a split second but vapor does not cool causing excessive combustion temps. This stuff has a much higher boiling point and in fact you do not even need to have a pressurized cooling system. The anti-corrosive properties are a side benefit.

JoshT · Apr 21, 2013

The purpose of pressurizing the coolant is to prevent boiling and vaporizing. If you engine is built hot enough to still boil and vaporize with the stock pressure cap then you need to raise the system pressure, which may also require upgrading a lot of other stuff to handle it. If the engine is not built like such then you have other problem that need to be addressed, I do not believe that to be the case here (except possibly exhaust as mentioned above).

Evan's may allow you avoid this, but the stuff can't transfer heat as quickly and efficiently as a water based coolant so the engine will run hotter. With the higher operating temps of Evan's that 240 may be a real good operating temp for the engine. If you want to make the Evans run cooler you either need a much larger radiator (more than radiator + oil cooler) for more cooling capacity, or it needs to stay in the radiator longer (possibly higher temp thermostat). Otherwise you need to switch to something that will transfer heat faster.

Teddyzee · Apr 21, 2013

Keep at it, Tominator!
Once it's in one piece, be sure to climb in it each day the sun shines!

gsp · Apr 23, 2013

I cut out the factory core support and all the metal around the perimeter and fabricated a steel mount from side to side for the Griffin:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I5H7C7LBpPg

Tominator · Apr 24, 2013

Nice vid! That things sounds impressive to say the least! :headbang:

Nice idle!

Looks like about the same radiator I used.

I used an aluminum fan shroud that I fabricated for dual fans. It's in a previous post. Cut out the support and mounted the Taurus fan to it.

tapiafox · Jul 15, 2016

Bringin this Thread back to life

What size was the radiator you use @tominator

Installing Radiator IN FRONT of the Support!

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