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M5R2 and 5.0 swap


marky mark

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has any body done a 5 speed tranny swap to a bronco II? ive got an 86 that i put this crown vic motor in with a tranny out of a i believe 88 F150 and it just doesnt want to go in gear for some reason im kinda new at this id just really love any pointers or links to somewhere that someone has done the same build that im doing to see how they did it.. anything helps thanks guys

Mark:dunno:
 


voodoochylde

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Can you go into more details on the tranny not going into gear? Grinding? Not moving but all gears are selectable?

Did you replace any of the clutch parts during the swap? How did you do your pedals?
 

marky mark

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Ya! I did a new clutch kit, new flywheel, i kept the same pedal assembly that came on the bronco II.. i had to custom make a hose to mount to the new tranny, i took it to a hydraulic line company and had them rig something up for that. If the trucks not running it will go into all the gears but with it on it wont go into gears, the throw out bearing just isnt going far enough with the pedal pushed in , like it gets about a 16th of an inch away fromm where it should be then stops.. weve bled it over and over and same thing.. is there a special bleed method fo that tranny? the things running and ready to be drivin im just stuck on this last little thing :(
 

marky mark

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But to answer your question no grinding just wont go in..
 

The_Dealer

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my 00 ranger did that after i did the 2.3t swap and new clutch and t-out bearing. dont know what the problem was, but i put it in gear and started it and it worked fine after that :icon_confused:



ford's hydraulic clutches like to be gravity bled. i run about 2 resi's full gravity. close the bleeder and pump about 10-12 times, then run half a resi gravity, then pump 10-12 times and have an assistant hold the clutch down and open the bleeder, close it, then gravity bleed some more. usually doesnt take but about 15 min to get all the air out. if u werent doing it like that wanna try it. but it sounds like the slave doesnt have enough throw.

i know on my jeep i welded a nut to the end of the slave rod, but it was an external slave. worked perfect after that. might have to find a slave with a little more throw for u


btw please post pics of the new motor/trans
 

marky mark

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hmmmm I hate it when i dont know why somethings not working, any ideas on slaves that with more throw that would work?
 

The_Dealer

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hydraulic clutches arent my specialty lol, try rangerpowersports.com and pirate4x4.com alot of people on those boards really know their shit
 

marky mark

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Essentially I think i just need a bigger master cylinder then my stock BII master.. somebody has to have done this swap somewhere right?? anyone? an F150 master wont bolt up cuz of the resevoir being in the way..
 

unoleisu

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I had this exact problem when I did my A4LD to M5OD swap. Bled the system multiple times, and still the same. I used the clutch master cylinder from my year of BII (87) I bought new, since the doner truck's master cylinder didn't quite fit right. (92 Explorer).

I also had an 85 BII that I tried swapping parts with, and actually used the petal assembly from.

The problem turned out to be that the pushrod from the new master cylinder was not quite long enough, and the pushrod from the Exploder was TOO long (made the petal set up too high). I used the one from the 85 BII. It was just right.
 

marky mark

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unoleisu!!!! thank you!! thank you!! getn some previous experience is what i was needing! so what your saying is you used the master from the 87 BII but the push rod from an 85 BII?? and i have an 86 lol is there a huge difference between all of them?
 

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I have found that proper bleeding is all that is needed in most cases.
That you tube video is the best

You will not believe what kind of trouble 12 bubbles causes
I changed my clutch 2 years ago , and was never able to get all of the air out of the system
I watched that vid, and did as it said , and counted (ADD)the bubbles , re attached the line , and gravity bleed

Pedal has not felt so good since I cant remember when
 

unoleisu

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I bled my system correctly, several times. (more like ten) Could not get any bubbles out, or improve the situation. I really wanted to believe I was doing something wrong, but...

There was something like a 1/2" difference in length between the '85 pushrod, and the '87 pushrod, and something like 3/4" difference between '85 pushrod and the '92 EXPloder pushrod.
Take it for what it's worth. This solved my issue, in spite of everything else I tried, and all the advice I got on here.
The extra length made all the difference.

(Don't get me wrong, the EXP pushrod worked as well, but gave too much travel, and caused the petal to rest an inch and a half above the level of the brake and gas petals, which I didn't like at all, In a stock vehicle they should all be level)
 

unoleisu

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I'm not sure what the differences are from year to year, or BII/ Ranger, to Exploder, but there are some.
The '92 Exploder master cylinder was slightly longer, bolted to the fire wall at a /slightly/ different angle, (causing the pushrod to bind when in the BII) and the bolt pattern was not exactly the same.
The '85 and '87 BII master cylinders looked pretty much the same ('87 being new from the box) mounted up the same, and the only significant differece I could find was the pushrod length.
I originally had planned to use the '85 master cylinder, but decided to go with all new from the petal down to the slave cylinder, to avoid any near future problems.

What I don't know is if there is any differences in slave cylinders. Specifically, how much fluid is required to fully ingage the throwout bearing, from one model or year to another..

Hope this was helpful.
 

marky mark

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So just to be clear, you used an 85 master cylinder because the pushrod was just the right length? and you switched the pedal assembly?
 

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