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| 4X4 Suspensions For stock & off-road suspensions using stock & aftermarket parts (IE suspension kits). Forum sponsored by RCI Metalworks |
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#1 |
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Junior Member
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Recently while servicing my front diff I noticed another crack in my rod ended Duff radius arms. Last year I had a crack welded up on my ears and now it seems I have another crack in a new location. My question is what are people doing to beef up their Duff radius arms?
Unfortunatley photobucket isn't allowing me to upload any new pics
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'92 Explorer Sport, 5-speed, swapped in manual t-case, 4.88s and Ecteds, on-board shower, Co2, Duff 5.5" lift with stock SOA in the rear, coming into its own. |
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#2 |
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Junior Member
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Here's where I had the ears welded up last year.
![]() ![]() Here is the new crack I found. Not catastrophic but definatley worth looking after. ![]() I've got to get my welder buddy to have a look at the new crack but was wondering if people have braced their arms.
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'92 Explorer Sport, 5-speed, swapped in manual t-case, 4.88s and Ecteds, on-board shower, Co2, Duff 5.5" lift with stock SOA in the rear, coming into its own. |
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#3 |
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Member
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: winston-salem, NC
Year: 1995
Make: ford
Model: ranger
Engine: 3.0
Class: 4x4 off-road
Used For: dd, weekend off roader. and annoying my girlfriend
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i think there is something in the tech library about the duff arms cracking and a fix for it.... might be worth a look for you.
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MAJORITY, THE NEW MINORITY "Harry..... I TOOK CARE OF IT!!!" 1995 RANGER EXT CAB 4X4, 6" SUSPENSION, 3" BODY, 35X12.50R15
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#4 | |
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Motorboater (.Y.)
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Raleigh, NC
Year: 1988, 2000
Make: Ford
Model: Bronco II (Eddie Bauer), Explorer
Engine: 2.9L, 4.0L
Class: 4x4, 2WD
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i'd just add some 3/16" plate to them for extra bracing
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BUILD THREAD<<<<<<<<<<<<< The Tikki Torch Build Thread 1988 Bronco II 4x4 2.9, FM146, 1350M, Disc 8.8, D30 SAS, 3.73's, 31's (for now) 2000 Explorer 4.0 2WD DD Everything I need to know about Islam, I learned on 9/11. The hardest part about a zombie apocalypse will be pretending I'm not excited. Quote:
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#5 |
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RBV Technical Advisor
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: higgins lake mi
Year: 1988
Make: FORD
Model: RANGERISH SORT OF THING
Engine: BIGGER
Class: 4X4
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on the old style i was always twisting and craking/bending them along with wasting d35 beams.
but i was way off the expected path as well as far as power weight and tire size. for what they are i cant complain. as you beat the fawk out of them you constantly monitor and maintain your whole suspension or build bigger etc.... i just consider it general maintenance.
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88 ranger ext cab low rider 4x4 propelled by 395 cubes of of non turbo SLOBBERIN DIESEL...BLAHHH...motating a 4l80 thats AUTHORITATIVELY turnin a ford 208 spinning 410 open dana 60s and whatever tire suits the mood that day. how ya like me now?
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#6 | |
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Junior Member
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Quote:
I spoke with my welder this morning and picked up some 1/4" flat bar to brace the arms, hopefully have the cracks repaired and new plate installed this weekend. I'll post pics when they're done.
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'92 Explorer Sport, 5-speed, swapped in manual t-case, 4.88s and Ecteds, on-board shower, Co2, Duff 5.5" lift with stock SOA in the rear, coming into its own. |
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#7 |
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Mall-Rated
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: So. Calif (SFV)
Year: 1990,1994
Make: Ford
Model: Bronco II, Ranger
Engine: 2.9L, 4.0L
Used For: Crawling over things
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I've seen reports (with pics) of that exact failure a couple times already (failures where the box section tapers down toward the tube section).
Agreed, I would grind out & weld up the crack, followed with a couple pieces of 3/16" plate bent to fit against the arm over where the crack is (a gusset along the top wouldn't hurt either). How old is that Duff kit?
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'90 Bronco II XLT 5" lift (Skyjacker Jeep coils), D35 & 8.8" w/5.13s (locked), 1354 dual T-case, 35x12.50s '94 Ranger XLT 6" Skyjacker, ARB D44 front, Detroit 8.8" rear, Atlas 4.3, 33s |
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#8 |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Hartford, KY
Year: '95~'00
Make: Ford
Model: Bronco~Ranger
Engine: 5.8~4.0
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I would throw some plate on there instead of just welding it. Another thing that to stop a crack you need to drill a hole in the end of the crack to keep it from running after a weld/fix.
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#9 |
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Junior Member
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I've been running it since January of 2006 its seen a lot of use wheeling and daily driving since that time.
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'92 Explorer Sport, 5-speed, swapped in manual t-case, 4.88s and Ecteds, on-board shower, Co2, Duff 5.5" lift with stock SOA in the rear, coming into its own. |
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#10 |
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Junior Member
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Got the gussets welded on, while grinding out the ear cracks we found them to be much worse than anticipated and were like spider webs with cracks running everywhere. We cut out the rotten metal and built the area back up with weld, then ground everything smooth and formed radiused corners rather then the orginal 90 degree ones so as to not create any stress risers.
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'92 Explorer Sport, 5-speed, swapped in manual t-case, 4.88s and Ecteds, on-board shower, Co2, Duff 5.5" lift with stock SOA in the rear, coming into its own. |
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#11 |
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Mall-Rated
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: So. Calif (SFV)
Year: 1990,1994
Make: Ford
Model: Bronco II, Ranger
Engine: 2.9L, 4.0L
Used For: Crawling over things
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Very nice work!
I'd probably even go a step further and double-plate the ears with another piece of 3/16" plate so they're 3/8" thick, just to make sure it doesn't crack again (at least on the driverside which supports the diff housing).
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'90 Bronco II XLT 5" lift (Skyjacker Jeep coils), D35 & 8.8" w/5.13s (locked), 1354 dual T-case, 35x12.50s '94 Ranger XLT 6" Skyjacker, ARB D44 front, Detroit 8.8" rear, Atlas 4.3, 33s Last edited by 4x4junkie; 08-29-2012 at 06:03 PM. |
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#12 |
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Member
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Oak Ridge, TN
Year: 91
Make: Ford
Model: Explorer
Engine: 4.0L
Class: Mall Rated
Used For: bending shock mounts and picking up mountain whores
Posts: 697
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Ahhh, if only I had my way......
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