• Welcome Visitor! Please take a few seconds and Register for our forum. Even if you don't want to post, you can still 'Like' and react to posts.

How to Remove the Bushing From the Driver's Side TTB Pivot Bolt?


rcfalcon56

New Member
Joined
Sep 2, 2015
Messages
17
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
Provo, Utah
Vehicle Year
1995
Make / Model
Ford
Engine Size
4.0l
Transmission
Automatic
My credo
Ambitious, but rubbish.
Not sure where to post this so I figured General would be a good start. If it needs to go somewhere else, please let me know. TIA.

I am in the process of rebuilding the front end on a 1995 Ranger XLT 4x4. It has the Dana 35 TTB. I managed to remove the driver's side spring, shock, radius arm(a royal PITB), and the front differential but now I need to get the driver's side support arm assembly off the vehicle. I managed to get the nut off the pivot bolt but there is a metal bushing that seems to be rusted to the bolt preventing its removal. Is there a way to break it free without destroying the rubber part of the bushing or will I just have to cut the bolt head off and replace the bolt?

I've saturated it with PB Blaster but like just about everything else on this truck, it is rusted solid, brutally over torqued, or both. Again, TIA.
 


guitardude2007

New Member
Joined
Oct 4, 2014
Messages
16
Reaction score
0
Points
0
Location
Yarmouth, NS, Canada
Vehicle Year
1997
Make / Model
Ford
Engine Size
4.0
Transmission
Manual
when I removed mine the bolt was seized to the metal sleeve. what i did was turn the bolt until it broke free then with the nut threaded on some I hit it with a hammer until I could get a pry bar under the head of the bolt. removed the nut and turned bolt while applying pressure with prybar. when the bolt was out too far for the prybay to work I used a big wrench as a prybar. mine fought me the whole way out. didn't damage the bushing at all but I was replacing the beams. I live in nova scotia, Canada where everything rusts bad fast and was able to do it this way so I think it might work for you.
 

guitardude2007

New Member
Joined
Oct 4, 2014
Messages
16
Reaction score
0
Points
0
Location
Yarmouth, NS, Canada
Vehicle Year
1997
Make / Model
Ford
Engine Size
4.0
Transmission
Manual
I forgot to mention when I did mine I was replacing the beams because the pinch bolts were never going to come out. the spring/ radius arm bolts were also seized. I removed radius arm nut where the bushing is and the pivot bolt leaving the radius arm and spring attached. don't know if this helped me or made it harder id assume harder as there would be more tension on the pivot. to give you an idea on how rusted mine was I had to cut the spring off, cut the spring stud flush with the nut and use a big breaker bar with a 6 foot pipe attached to it to break the spring/ radius arm bolts free. so hopefully since you've already got those off it will give you a bit more confidence in getting those pivot bolts out.
 

SenorNoob

Well-Known Member
TRS Event Participant
Joined
Oct 24, 2012
Messages
2,400
Reaction score
560
Points
113
Location
Middle Tennessee
Vehicle Year
1988
Make / Model
Ford
Engine Type
4.0 V6
Engine Size
4.0
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Total Lift
1.5" Front + 4" Rear
Tire Size
245-70-R16
If you're going that far anyway, I'd just cut the bolt to get the beam out and burn the bushing out. Replace them with poly, it's easier than the factory rubber.
 

rcfalcon56

New Member
Joined
Sep 2, 2015
Messages
17
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
Provo, Utah
Vehicle Year
1995
Make / Model
Ford
Engine Size
4.0l
Transmission
Automatic
My credo
Ambitious, but rubbish.
Thanks for the suggestions. I'll probably just cut the bolt off as I don't need to replace the axle support and this is the last part holding it to the truck. The bushing is free from the rubber parts but is frozen to the bolt itself. I may have to cut some, slide it forward, cut some, slide forward until it's out as I don't want to replace anything but the bolt or if worse comes to worst, the rubber as well.
Thanks again.
 

rcfalcon56

New Member
Joined
Sep 2, 2015
Messages
17
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
Provo, Utah
Vehicle Year
1995
Make / Model
Ford
Engine Size
4.0l
Transmission
Automatic
My credo
Ambitious, but rubbish.
Update,
I ended up removing the 5 nuts that hold the pivot bracket to the frame which was really super easy.:yahoo: Once the axle arm was on the ground I put the nut back on and used a short length of pipe and a heavy hammer to beat the bolt out. Half a dozen whacks later, it was out and no damage to any of the parts. I'll replace the bolt anyway since where the busing was is badly rusted, but it was way easier than cutting it out or fighting it while in the truck.
 

trail B2

New Member
Joined
Jan 17, 2009
Messages
1,289
Reaction score
8
Points
0
Location
North Eastern Ca.
Vehicle Year
1986
Make / Model
ford
Engine Size
4.0
Transmission
Manual
The bolts that hold the radius arm to the axle its self have a locktite from the factory heat with a propane torch helps.To pull the radius arm out of it's socket once the nut is off I pull it forward with a come along from the front bumper.
 

Sponsored Ad


Sponsored Ad

Member & Vendor Upgrades

For a small yearly donation, you can support this forum and receive a 'Supporting Member' banner, or become a 'Supporting Vendor' and promote your products here. Click the banner to find out how.

Truck of The Month


Shran
April Truck of The Month

Recently Featured

Want to see your truck here? Share your photos and details in the forum.

Follow TRS On Instagram

TRS Events

25th Anniversary Sponsors

Check Out The TRS Store


Sponsored Ad


Sponsored Ad

Sponsored Ad


Amazon Deals

Top