need encouragement on recent puchase.

JB3 · May 21, 2016

Are we absolutely certain the rattle is an engine noise and not a vibration in something else cause by low rpm lugging?

How are your engine and cab mounts? Condition of suspension and exhaust? Even though its low mileage you could have dry cracked or rusted components kicking around and never even know it.

need info · May 21, 2016

JB3 said:
Are we absolutely certain the rattle is an engine noise and not a vibration in something else cause by low rpm lugging?

How are your engine and cab mounts? Condition of suspension and exhaust? Even though its low mileage you could have dry cracked or rusted components kicking around and never even know it.

okay, I will check everything out. i will also give it a tune up. It may never of seen new plugs. I think new shocks would be in order too. I think if I take every ones advice, that I will end up with an okay work truck. I will be specific and say, light duty work. All and all, I think these 4 cyl rangers were nice trucks. thanks.

enjr44 · May 21, 2016

The 2.3 is not a "smooth" engine to start with and if you bog it down it will rattle and jump around under the hood like it is trying to get out of the truck. Like pjtoledo said keep the little bsard wound up and it will last forever.

Run some injector cleaner through it, clean the TB and be happy.

Mightyfordranger · May 22, 2016

From someone who has the same truck as you mine has 276k on it and runs like a dream it'll hold 75 all day I drove it to Cali and back I have abused it to no end and just change the oil maintain it and it won't ever die my buddy has a 94 4cycl ranger with 322k on it and he drives it everyday and as for the rattling if the shifter shakes real hard side to side you need to down shift and like said before check the rear trans mount if its bad and cracked that will only make the shaking worse they're cheap I put one in my truck it was like 40$

need info · May 25, 2016

Mightyfordranger said:
From someone who has the same truck as you mine has 276k on it and runs like a dream it'll hold 75 all day I drove it to Cali and back I have abused it to no end and just change the oil maintain it and it won't ever die my buddy has a 94 4cycl ranger with 322k on it and he drives it everyday and as for the rattling if the shifter shakes real hard side to side you need to down shift and like said before check the rear trans mount if its bad and cracked that will only make the shaking worse they're cheap I put one in my truck it was like 40$

This is really good to hear. This is the reason I went way out of my way to purchase it. I appreciate the information and help from all. I plan on keeping up with service and maintenance. It is way better than the cost of those new pick_ups. I like the basic qualities of a ranger, and I think they are underestimated by many, who just do not know!

Mightyfordranger · May 25, 2016

So very true many just don't understand this little trucks and something else you'll like to hear is that these little Lima engines are non interfereance engines sonif your timing belt snaps then you won't bend any valves I know I have had that happen

need info · May 26, 2016

Mightyfordranger said:
So very true many just don't understand this little trucks and something else you'll like to hear is that these little Lima engines are non interfereance engines sonif your timing belt snaps then you won't bend any valves I know I have had that happen

oh, so that is what non interference means. thanks

GKM007 · May 26, 2016

I concur about the 87 octane. My uncle has a 1997 4cyl 2.3 and it hates Regular unleaded. We put some Super in it and it runs so much better and the chatter is completely gone even when lugging it more than we should.

That truck will never see Regular again.

Will · May 28, 2016

It needs a 5-90 tune-up. Low miles means short trips without the motor ever getting loaded properly. It probably has deposits in the combustion chambers from too much cool running. The deposits are glowing red in there and under higher torque loads--low rpm more pedal, the spark plugs start the combustion, then when the pressure is going up, but before the charge is fully combusted, that glowing deposit starts a small semi-diesel effect that pops off and makes that knock.

I don't know if that makes sense to you, but the cure is to make sure you run the motor hot once in a while, which is the 5-90 tune-up. 5 miles at 90mph. You want to burn up the deposits. there are chemicals, by Lucas oil and others, that are supposed to help this. I don't know, though. I wouldn't want to break anything loose in there. I would just drive it harder and at a faster engine speed and see if it goes away.

Torque is basically how much fuel can you burn in one revolution of the motor. Torque is pressure and heat. Driving a car on short trips only means you never get that heat you need to burn up all the garbage in the gas. Once you have that garbage deposited in there, the pressure and heat you need to burn it away can also cause that semi-diesel effect. So you have to ride that line so you don't damage the engine.

need info · Jun 1, 2016

Will said:
It needs a 5-90 tune-up. Low miles means short trips without the motor ever getting loaded properly. It probably has deposits in the combustion chambers from too much cool running. The deposits are glowing red in there and under higher torque loads--low rpm more pedal, the spark plugs start the combustion, then when the pressure is going up, but before the charge is fully combusted, that glowing deposit starts a small semi-diesel effect that pops off and makes that knock.

I don't know if that makes sense to you, but the cure is to make sure you run the motor hot once in a while, which is the 5-90 tune-up. 5 miles at 90mph. You want to burn up the deposits. there are chemicals, by Lucas oil and others, that are supposed to help this. I don't know, though. I wouldn't want to break anything loose in there. I would just drive it harder and at a faster engine speed and see if it goes away.

Torque is basically how much fuel can you burn in one revolution of the motor. Torque is pressure and heat. Driving a car on short trips only means you never get that heat you need to burn up all the garbage in the gas. Once you have that garbage deposited in there, the pressure and heat you need to burn it away can also cause that semi-diesel effect. So you have to ride that line so you don't damage the engine.

thanks for the comments. I think I would be very stressed out if I could build up the nerve to get up to 90! I could try 75 for 10 with some additive! I get your point, though. I will say one thing, I enjoy this ranger so much, If I had to I would get some engine work done to it. The reason I purchased it is because I am living within my means and I researched the ranger and looked of a long time for a stick shift 4 cyl. in good shape for the right price. In the mean time I am going to try driving it 100 thousand miles! you never know, right. The body will last another 10 years even in my salty conditions of NY, because it has only surface rust now underneath. This 2000 is built a bit better than the newer ones, I think? It has metal bumpers and it seems a little more solid than a 2011 I test drove. thanks

Shran · Jun 1, 2016

The bodies on the newer trucks, actually 93 up for that matter, seem to be really pretty good as far as rust resistance goes. Frames and suspension components, however... not so much. Pretty common to find rusted off leaf spring hangers, gas tank straps and even rusted off frame sections. Keep it washed underneath really well.

need info · Jun 8, 2016

Shran said:
The bodies on the newer trucks, actually 93 up for that matter, seem to be really pretty good as far as rust resistance goes. Frames and suspension components, however... not so much. Pretty common to find rusted off leaf spring hangers, gas tank straps and even rusted off frame sections. Keep it washed underneath really well.

got ya, thanks. just for information sake, Delta sonic has a pretty good rust proofing that is a tacky thin spray. I use to use the oil treatment that was called rust stop, on my vehicles. I didnt care for it at all. It would make an oily mess on everything, and the only way it would be effective is doing it every year. I never used the delta sonic rust proofing yet, but it seems much better and it is just a one time cost. I may have to agree that washing the underneath is most likely the best thing. Pressure wash that is in a pay wash.

need encouragement on recent puchase.

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