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Teach me about Fuel Sending Units...?


SuperRob

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So my fuel gauge doesnt work.

I got another sending unit from another truck (a few years older) with the plug.

My original plug was in bad shape, so I spliced this one in. The only difference in the plug was that the main power and ground wires were opposite, so I changed that when I respliced it in. Its wired the same as it originally was.

I was hoping that that would fix my problem, but it hasnt.

The pump works fine.

I also tested the rheostat between the signal wire terminal and the ground terminal to make sure that it was functioning correctly, and it appears to be. With the float at empty, it reads roughly 25 or so ohms and when the float is at the top it reads something like 250 ohms or something...

When I have the float at the bottom and turn the key on, it reads empty.

When I have the float at the top and turn the key on it reads full.

When I have the float about 1/3 of the way from empty and turn the key on it reads correctly.

If I have the float at the top, turn the key on, and then move the float to the empty position, the gauge doesnt move at all. Even after about 2 minutes.

If I have the float anywhere above the 1/3 tank level it reads full.

Basically, Full work, empty works, anything in the middle doesnt work. IT also doesnt move as the float moves. I understand that there may be a delay to compensate for shifting fuel load, but 2 minutes should be long enough for it to start moving the gauge.

Whats goin on?

I also checked the rheostat on the 'new' (but old as dirt) sending unit, and it doesnt work at all so I'm not putting it in. It appears that the original sending unit should be fine but I'm unable to figure this out on my own.

Pointers?

Maybe a little NASA experience?

Help?

Thanks!

Heres the situation.
 


martin

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Since you have owned the truck has the gauge ever worked correctly or has it always been this way?

The sending units have been changed in value over the years (don't remember when) but they are either 0 to 75 ohms or 0 to 150 ohms.

This is one of the circuits that is fed by the ivr, however I suspect that other instrument readings would be off if the ivr was bad.
 

SuperRob

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it has never worked correctly.

Whats the IVR?

Oh, and my truck isnt running now all of a sudden this morning. No fuel pressure. SO I think I must have kinked something when I put the box back on since it ran fine when I drove it from my covered parking spot to where I had offloaded the box.....now no go.
 

MAKG

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Instrument clusters have their own voltage regulator. Virtually every one in existence is bad.

It makes the fuel level, temperature, and oil pressure gauges read wrong. Usually people notice it because it looks like it's running warm.

And the temperature sender connector is the easiest place to test it, because it's most accessible. Stick an analog voltmeter in there and you should see it switch. If it's constant, it's bad. Your odds of getting a good used one are comparable to winning the lottery....
 

SuperRob

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'Thats interesting to know, because the only stock gauge that I still have connected is the voltage one. The fuel guage never worked right, I didnt trust the oil pressure gauge and wanted a mechanical one, and the temperature gauge....I'm not sure about that one if it worked properly or not....but its also been replaced with a manual gauge that I have mounted below the ashtray.

I'm gonna have to check into this...maybe my sending unit and all IS good afterall!
 

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