Project: LOWrange

now i also set my headers up and i had to cut the collectors off, im buying 2.5" - 2" collector reducer then i have to make the 2" exhaust fit through my tranny member. once thats done wrap the headers, weld up a few exhaust hangers, wrap the entire exhaust, finish the rear shock tabs, plate the tie rod notches, and weld my new battery tray on the rear. then i can strip it for powdercoat.

then once i get it back, i have ALL new calipers, SN95 rear disc setup, new rotors, bearings, seals, shocks, tie rods, ball joints, and no telling what else. then i have to put the front belt drive bracket stuff on my motor along with my new polished edelbrock performer intake and holley 600 carb. and then i should have a NICE rolling motor and chassis for a show or two

whats the smallest wheel that will clear the SN95 rear discs?

heres my battery tray i made, i also have a polished optima mount that will bolt down to this after powder coat

I'll be watching this one!! Great work!!!

Congrats on TOTM dude, awesome truck! Deff my favorite lowered truck on the site.

Curious question: what are you wrapping the exhaust in? I like the idea but When i bought my '86 F-150 the guy had the headers wrapped in some stuff from the autoparts store that i wasnt too impressed with at all..

3/16" shear loqad gussets to weld over the 2x3 joints, had them made into the ford logo



bent tubes do make me some slick shock mounts.



and this is what i turned it into



now the shock is straight!





i like it, i think it looks ALOT better. now i just need someone to give me a 100% for sure measurement on a 215/35R18 tire on a 7" wheel. i have 1.5" of clearance right there.

now once i mirror this on the other side, mirror the radius arm mount, get my exhaust mocked up enough so i have the hangers welded up, weld in my new battery mount. i can then strip it for powder coat FINALLY!

ChrisR1S said:

Congrats on TOTM dude, awesome truck! Deff my favorite lowered truck on the site.

Curious question: what are you wrapping the exhaust in? I like the idea but When i bought my '86 F-150 the guy had the headers wrapped in some stuff from the autoparts store that i wasnt too impressed with at all..

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i have some greyish blackish titanium wrap from speedwaymotors. supposed to be real good (they say it is anyway lol)

that shock hanger looks very sharp, good work.

Robert

a 215 tire is 8.5 wide. what is the back space on the rim? That is the determining factor.

well the tire calculator says that the section widt is like 8.5" and the height is 23.9". but i measured one mounted on a 18x8 and the height was 23.25" which is PERFECT for me and the width was 8" even. id rather a 7" but thatd make the tire taller, i dont need that lol. but 7" would also make it a bit wider. the tire calc is ABOUT but when mounted its different

backspace/offset, idk yet. NO ONE can give me a straight answer, they all say o well i believe mine ar xxx but his are xx. so IDK! i need to know with a 18x8 and a 18x7. im gonna run the same on all 4 so that i can rotate them.

so if ANYONE knows the backspace with a 8" wheel on beams to tuck, PLEASE let me know. or even a 7" wheel. i believe that on a 7" its 5" BS and an 8" itd be 5.4-5.6"? idk

Bet it will run with a bit of a miss unless you invest in some new plugs.lol

Is it common to use soft copper for hard lines? I have heard when copper (any thing from copper tubing to solid wire) is used in a automotive application it becomes very brittle due to the vibrations, so it cracks really easy. It happens fast enough that most experienced electricians and plumbers dont carry bulk rolls of copper tubing or wire in there vans because it will crack/break when you try to unroll it.

Whats wrong with the rims and tires that you are running now?? I think it looks great as it is when it comes to the wheels, if they are 14"s i could see you going to a 15", but I think the whole look of your truck would be a little lost with a 18", but that is just my opinion, and you know what they say about opinions, they are like butts, eveyone has one and they all stink.

my vote is for the 14"s or 15"s that is on it now.

Robert

p.s. it's still a niffty little truck.

PlumCrazy said:

Is it common to use soft copper for hard lines? I have heard when copper (any thing from copper tubing to solid wire) is used in a automotive application it becomes very brittle due to the vibrations, so it cracks really easy. It happens fast enough that most experienced electricians and plumbers dont carry bulk rolls of copper tubing or wire in there vans because it will crack/break when you try to unroll it.

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I would guess that is why the old car makers stop useing it and went to brass for brake lines and fuel lines, been a long time sence I seen a old car (early 1900) use copper lines.

PlumCrazy said:

Is it common to use soft copper for hard lines? I have heard when copper (any thing from copper tubing to solid wire) is used in a automotive application it becomes very brittle due to the vibrations, so it cracks really easy. It happens fast enough that most experienced electricians and plumbers dont carry bulk rolls of copper tubing or wire in there vans because it will crack/break when you try to unroll it.

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I may be wrong but i think the copper is just for mock-up and he was going with all stainless lines and fittings?

ChrisR1S said:

I may be wrong but i think the copper is just for mock-up and he was going with all stainless lines and fittings?

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correct. the copper is easier to bend, im using it for practice/mockup cause its ohhh idk, about $9 CHEAPER a ft? lmao

PlumCrazy said:

Is it common to use soft copper for hard lines? I have heard when copper (any thing from copper tubing to solid wire) is used in a automotive application it becomes very brittle due to the vibrations, so it cracks really easy. It happens fast enough that most experienced electricians and plumbers dont carry bulk rolls of copper tubing or wire in there vans because it will crack/break when you try to unroll it.

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some do run copper. this is the rolled copper and not the straight pieces. the rolled is stronger but copper is brittle. its fine just as long as you clamp it to the frame enough. but it tarnishes, and doesnt look good after a while. so thats why with the Stainless Steel itll ALWAYS look good and last forever! lol, but idk wanna mess up some SS tube, cause its not cheap and NOT easy to obtain

oh and about the truck missing. HAHAHHAHA i knew their was a reason that your "Plum Crazy"!!! lol, those are the new Body Dropped V8 first gen ranger iBeam spark plugs, those will make it all clear, and i also heard that itll increase NOT ONLY HP but aerodynamics as well considering that its shaped like a BRICK! rofl jk jk thats all a joke people. i have some double platinum plugs for it, dont worry lol

Robert_1967 said:

Whats wrong with the rims and tires that you are running now?? I think it looks great as it is when it comes to the wheels, if they are 14"s i could see you going to a 15", but I think the whole look of your truck would be a little lost with a 18", but that is just my opinion, and you know what they say about opinions, they are like butts, eveyone has one and they all stink.

my vote is for the 14"s or 15"s that is on it now.

Robert

p.s. it's still a niffty little truck.

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you are correct. but the reason i want/need bigger wheels is because im going to put the SN95 rear discs on. i already have them and new rotors and everything. but i dont think that the 14's will clear it, if they did, well id keep em! but id have to swap tires cause these are about 1/2" too tall for the front.

i want the Centerline Boulevards in 18x7's really, but 18x8's i can make work, thatll make the 215/35R18. that wheel is solid billet (keeps the old feel) and its a salt flat look alike (again old styling). the truck will be painted one day same colors and scheme along will all new OEM stock chrome trimmings.

anyone have an idea on the Backspacing for a first or second gen? anyone anyone?

I don't know the back spacing but if you are running a gt setup from and sn95 15" rims will fit that is what my welds are and they clear on my stang.
if they are the cobra setup you only need 17" rims