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Where to find diagram of Engine compartment?


PonyUp

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:icon_confused:
Hello to all.

I have a 1986 Ford Bronco II. Woohoo!

Unfortunately it caught on fire due to some leaves in the heater core. Waaa!

Insurance Co. totaled it and I bought it back. That was 6 years ago and it has been sitting ever since. I did start it a few times and it ran fine other than having a huge hole in that plastic covering. Bought another used vehicle to drive. Being very depressed about sinking a bunch of money into it then it catching on fire, I gave up trying to replace that plastic compartment...all kinds of AC stuff in the way.

So...it sat and now I want to try to get it going again. Alas...some darn beast ate some wiring, messed with a connector even with moth balls and "snake away" in there.

I think I can fix the wires though there is one apparatus they played with and I have no idea where it goes or which of the three wires go where when I find a new plastic connector.

Also removing spark plugs to put Mystery Oil in the holes but one plug seems to be stripped where the socket fits over it. Any way to get it out, short of hauling it to some one and paying to get it out?

Haynes manual does not tell me much in their pictures. Looking for a place I can get a map of all of the sensors/connectors. Is there such a thing?

Thanks and these Forums/people are so very interesting and helpful.



 


88_Eddie

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grab a chiltons manual or a haynes manual. LMC truck sells a bunch of stuff for RBV's, and i've actually used their catalog to rebuild my front axle. they have a bunch of exploded diagrams.

is that a 2.9? i may have some pics of what goes where. that pigtail looks like it may plug into the coil, but idk.
 

PonyUp

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Hello Eddie. Thanks for the rapid reply and sharing.

It is a 2.9 engine. Have a Haynes and I cannot see where these two things go or the sequence of where those wire with tabs fit back into the connector. heck..I don't even know where the coil is or what it looks like. :sad:

I want to get some kind of book or a picture of "under the hood" details off the internet. I am sure there are plenty of things I have no idea what they are nor where to find them when I read Forum posts with specific issues/fixes. I want a "road map" for "idiots". :icon_confused:

So many awesome peeps have shared here and I am still scratching head. Willing to learn though. :D

Will search LMC. Thanks!!
 

Flat Toy

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Go to www.autozone.com. Become a member. Go to repair info, Find wiring diagrams on left side of page. Should get some wiring diagrams. Of course you have to fill in the my vehicles section first. Not great but free. If you need a picture of something show me what area you want one of and I will send you a picture of my 86 for you to compare.
 

PonyUp

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Hello again FlatToy. :icon_thumby:

Thanks for sharing and the offer. It is on the driver side of vehicle for now. Over the tire well is where I found the items shown in the pics. A darn beast had chewed one end of that connector and the wires were pulled out. No idea what the heck the round one is to.

I did buy a Used BII 86 Shop manual online a few minutes ago but I am wanting to get some things done. All of this grease and dings on hands...no accomplishment seen as of yet. :D


Heading to Auto Zone in about 30 minutes and hope they can at least replace that gray plastic connector. Will also join the Auto Zone site this afternoon.

I have a huge roll of pink wire..can I just use the same color wire to splice repair where beastie had lunch?

Thanks again and wish you a great day. :D
 

Flat Toy

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The flat plug goes to the brake resovoir. The wires should not pull out once they are pushed onto the sensor. I would force RTV into the plug where the wire comes out. That way next time the plug comes off the wires will stay in plug.
 
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PonyUp

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FlatToy...you are the best. :)

Thank you ever so much. Time, pics and sharing. I was looking everywhere in tire well area. Will do as you suggested and keep looking to see where the round connector goes.

Looked on the LMX site and no connectors. Salvage yard here sells the entire wiring in engine compartment for $150. May have to consider that one day.

Thanks again. :)
 

unoleisu

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Ponyup, I had a Taurus wagon (3.0 L) that had the chew beasts attack it. They ate everything they could get too, including things I couldn't get too. Fuel injector connectors, O2 sensor connectors and wires, headlight connectors and wires, random harness sections, ect. I decided to attempt repairs, so my son could drive it.

My suggestion: Solder every splice you put in. Don't use the crimp style connectors, or you will be trying to figure out which ones are bad, later. (if youcan't solder, I suggest you teach yourself, it's not that hard, and you'll be happy you did). I used wires from spare harnesses that matched color schemes as close as possible, and was the correct wire sizes. I used liquid tape over the soldered splice, with heat shrink tubing over that. Some connectors that were unusable, I had to get replacements from the salvage yard. The pins inside (male and female) all have a little tiny clip on the sides of each individual pin that when you use a very small screw driver or similar piece of metal inserted, will allow the pin to slide right out so you can put it in the new connector. (pay attention to position, to repeat it in the new connector.)

I have the Shop manuals for all of my vehicles, that pretty clearly illustrates all the wireing and components, to make all this alot easier. It took me about 6 days to find and replace all the chewed wireing in the Taurus, but in the end it worked pretty well. My biggest problem was getting to some of the chew spots to make repairs.

Hope you have good luck!
 

PonyUp

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Good morning everyone.

Thanks unoleisu. I guess I am going to feel Lucky today because I have not found any other areas they attacked. 6 days? yikes! Your suggestions make sense though I wish to know if I do the crimp and cover with a sealer plastic of some kind..Will that not work too? I don't have a solder tool.

I called all of the Salvage places here and they will only sell the entire kit and kaboodle of everything under hood with wire/connectors. Will try another place about 100 miles from my area.

Sooo...the size of wire used is important? The local Auto Parts guy said 18 G would work with a 20 G splice. Is that not correct? Hmmm...wonder if I can just use perm marker to change the color of the pink wire I have to match the colors of the wires Beastie chewed?

Thanks again, much appreciated. Wishing everyone a great day with a running Bronco II. :D
 

Flat Toy

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Give us a close up of that section of wire that has been damaged. from the view we have it does not look too bad. Let us see it up close. If I remember right that harness is door locks and elect windows. Might be one wire to battery.
 

chrwilkins30

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Where is your coil at PonyUp. I don't see it mounted in the picture.
 

unoleisu

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Ponyup, My personal opinion is, that the wire gauge was selected for the component it services, for a reason. What will work, and what is best isn't always the same thing. I try to always use the right gauge for a splice. A cheap soldering iron can be gotten at most autoparts stores, along with solder. I don't have a fancy one, I typically don't need it often enough to warrent spending the extra $$$.

NOTE: heat shrink tubing must be put onto the wire and slid up out of the way BEFORE twisting wires together, and soldering, THEN slide it down in place, and heat shrink.

The trick is to twist the wires together end to end (forming a straight line), hold the iron on the wire a moment to "preheat" it, and then touch the solder to the point where the iron meets the wire. Hold it just long enough to let the solder saturate thru the wire, not just melt onto it. The wire insulation may start getting soft, don't hold the heat past this point. Let cool before sealing with liquid tape, and/or heat shrink tubing.

NOTE: heat shrink tubing must be put onto the wire and slid up out of the way BEFORE twisting wires together, and soldering, THEN slide it down in place, and heat shrink.

Even using heatshrink tubing and/or liquid tape over a crimp splice will not assure a good long term connection. Soldering correctly will. That's why all factory splices are soldered, not crimped.
I'm only trying to help. Believe me, I've done it the other ways, and this one is in my opinion, the best way.
 

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Ponyup, I had a Taurus wagon (3.0 L) that had the chew beasts attack it. They ate everything they could get too, including things I couldn't get too. Fuel injector connectors, O2 sensor connectors and wires, headlight connectors and wires, random harness sections, ect. I decided to attempt repairs, so my son could drive it.

My suggestion: Solder every splice you put in. Don't use the crimp style connectors, or you will be trying to figure out which ones are bad, later. (if youcan't solder, I suggest you teach yourself, it's not that hard, and you'll be happy you did). I used wires from spare harnesses that matched color schemes as close as possible, and was the correct wire sizes. I used liquid tape over the soldered splice, with heat shrink tubing over that. Some connectors that were unusable, I had to get replacements from the salvage yard. The pins inside (male and female) all have a little tiny clip on the sides of each individual pin that when you use a very small screw driver or similar piece of metal inserted, will allow the pin to slide right out so you can put it in the new connector. (pay attention to position, to repeat it in the new connector.)

I have the Shop manuals for all of my vehicles, that pretty clearly illustrates all the wireing and components, to make all this alot easier. It took me about 6 days to find and replace all the chewed wireing in the Taurus, but in the end it worked pretty well. My biggest problem was getting to some of the chew spots to make repairs.

Hope you have good luck!




good advice:icon_thumby: though i dont suggest twist and solder....rather tin the ends and solder


for a beginner in an engine compartment i would go no solder though...say

easy to use the gm stuff at the parts store to make jumpers for the repairs, not sure if it is cost effective or not. there is a tool to crimp the connectors for the weatherpacks properly that costs 20-30 bux and a good 10 - 15 dollar stripper/crimper that will make the repair process very easy and efficient. if you have a good stripper already you can do 4 jumpers for 45 bux or so.

i have repaired or built a harness or two, and this method is something that makes it easiest for one that would have to take the time to ask imo.

good luck :icon_cheers:
 
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PonyUp

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FlatToy..I don't have power windows, locks..you may be onto something with the round connector. Jhammel or you have power locks/windows? I don't think the chewed wires are that bad as there are only 3 with missing wire and 2 with breaks in them. There is room thankfully.

Unoleisu...thanks for the instructions. My client might have one i can borrow. Can I just use a roll of 16 gauge wire to practice on? I may have room since the harness with the most chewed wires has a little play in it and I have a drop light. will also get the correct gauge wire. I think all wires in that harness use 18 gauge. Will the heat shrink tubing shrink with a 1200 watt hair dryer?

chrwilkens...I am going to post pics of the coil. Thanks.


Bobby...Thanks for joining in. All suggestions/opinions are greatly appreciated. What does "tin the ends" mean? I am now thinking the solder may be good for me to learn and maybe more cost effective. I am new to this and willing to learn...slowly but surely. (so far) :D

OOPS! Another wayward connector hanging loose under block? behind pulleys..

Brother had me turn bottom pulley to make sure engine was not froze up. Yippee!! Pulley moved without too much leverage. While under there I looked around and saw the connectors. Will fix wires and find out where that connector goes this weekend.

First two pics were taken from me on ground looking up toward hood.
Third pic was me putting wire at top to get a better shot of them.
Fourth show coil/etc.

Thanks everyone so very much for your generous sharing, kindness.







 
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unoleisu

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Unoleisu...thanks for the instructions. My client might have one i can borrow. Can I just use a roll of 16 gauge wire to practice on? I may have room since the harness with the most chewed wires has a little play in it and I have a drop light. will also get the correct gauge wire. I think all wires in that harness use 18 gauge. Will the heat shrink tubing shrink with a 1200 watt hair dryer?

Ponyup, Sure you can practice with 16 gauge. It'll solder about the same. If there is enough slack in the harness to easily join the two chewed ends of each wire together, you shouldn't need to splice in a piece, I'd just solder them together. (I'd make sure you have all of the little copper strands for each wire, not just half the strands, this might require trimming the chewed ends back a little.)
I simply use a lighter to heat the shrink tubing. There is some little butane Pintorch with an attachement for this, but I've never needed to spend the extra $$ for it. (I think I saw it at Harber fright tools) Although I'm not sure what "tinning the ends" means, I am interested in hearing about it. If it works better I'm sure I'll try it myself, but twisting and soldering has worked well for me. It was the way I learned back when I took my ASE electrical class. And seems to be the method some manufacturers used on splices for their harnesses, at least the ones I have taken apart. I try to keep in mind that there is more than one way to kill a zombie.
 

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