89 2.9L STILL not running right

Problems here sound two fold.

First? Pick up a small vacuum pump tester. The harbor freight one works ok, the Mitivac one is more name--brand.

Attach the fuel pressure gauge to the valve, disconnect and CAP the line from the intake to prevent a vacuum leak.

Hook the vacuum pump, using a rubber hose of the correct type to the regulator. Start the truck.... You should have 40 PSI at the pressure gauge. Pump up the vacuum to the reg. to about 15-18" of vacuum. The pressure should drop about 4-8 lbs from 40. At no time should the pressure go above that 40 mark. What happens with this system? More engine vacuum==tells the FPR the engine is not under heavy load, so it reduces the fuel pressure. Less vacuum==Tells the FPR the engine is under load, increase in pressure is needed.

If all that works out? Stop the engine and unhook the vacuum line to the FPR and the vacuum pump. Check the inside of that vacuum hose for fuel while you're at it. Discharge CAREFULLY any remaining pressure and disconnect the gauge.

For what it's worth? I've not had any problems with a clogged return line, except for the cases where something impacted the steel line and crimped it a bit. It's worth checking, but I'd inspect for damage (rock kicked up, tree limb nailing the steel line, etc..)

For the timing? The SPOUT is crazy easy to locate, however it's not on the harness sitting on top of the engine. (that's where I figured it was!...) On the firewall behind the disty? Follow the rubber flex-loom surrounding the main harness. It will curl towards the front about 6 inches or so. There will be what appears to be an "Inline fuse holder" looking device. It's on about a 3" long 2 wires from the main harness. It bears a strong look to an inline fuse holder, color is black. It will have a slight cut-out/machined out semi-circle cut into the holder plastic, as to give your fingers the ability to grip the actual connector. It's pretty small, and at times it will be turned in---down-- in a direction that is hard to visualize. But it's there. Get the engine to temp, remove the SPOUT..and set to 10btdc. You'll know you've got the right connector, the engine's rpm and quality of idling will change when you pull the spout plug out. DO NOT!! LOOSE THAT SMALL PLUG!! (yeah...it's that small, about 1/2" sq with two small prongs sticking out)

That should sort out the timing. (hope you have better luck with yours then we are with ours LOL!!)

Best of luck with it!!

S-

Ok feeling better now.
I found the "spout" connector and re adjusted the timing, now the truck has all kinds of power.
the bad, I have a "rattle" in the engine at about 2900 to 3100 rpm, a friend said it sounds like rod bearings are bad. The noise goes away at lower and higher rpm's. I was told by someone else that if it was bad bearings it would make the noise all the time. At all rpm's does anyone know if this is true? The compression test shose about 155ish for cylinders 2-6 and about 130 for cylinder 1.

The other problem is that the check engine light comes on shows code 41 engine running lean.
I have replaced the oxygen sensor twice and checked the wiring which seems fine.
could the fuel pressure regulator problem I have (too high pressure) cause truck to run lean?
Or is there something else to check for the running lean problem, with the check engine light on it will not pass emmisions

Is that rattle at 2900-3100 when the engine is under heavy load...light load...or holding steady?

Reason I ask? You might be getting either a detonation OR "Spark Knock" (Pre-Ignition).

Lean running engine, if I remember things right? Would create some interesting engine sounds...

Hang loose for a bit and see if anyone else has any ideas. I'm still learning about these 2.9's.....

S-

the "rattle" is both while driving, and also just while sitting in the driveway.

any ideas on why the truck may be running lean??

I cant afford to do the fuel pressure regulator until this weekend, but in the meantime, looking for any other ideas

Ok, I replaced the fuel pressure regulator, truck drives great now, lots of power, and passed emissions with no problem.

The only think I need to figure out now it the rattle in the engine.

When truck first starts up I can hear a definate lifter noise that only lasts about a minute then goes away.

There is however a different rattle in the engine (sounds deeper than the lifter rattle) it starts when the truck gets up to about 2600 rpm and stops at about 3100 rpm, engine sounds great below 2600 rpm. At crusing speed there are no noises.

I have been told 2 things
1- the rod bearings are bad, however I have heard from many people, that it would be a constant rattle if it were bearings

2- I was told that the valves may not be adjusted properly. When I adjusted the valves I put each cylinder to tdc of compression stroke and adjusted both valves for that cylinder, I tightened till rocker arm was just snug against the valve then 1.5 turns past that.

Any ideas?????

You do need a special fuel line disconnect tool, and man are they a pain in the behind to get seperated. With a little sweat and tears and a whole lot of pulling, you will eventually get them apart. I doubt that there is a blockage in the return fuel line, I believe that the fuel pressure regulater is causing all of your problems, it is designed to unload excess fuel pressure back to the tank. It is controled by vaccum, that might be something else that you might want to check.

The spout is located in the main wire harness that connects the engine sensors together, mine is located on the drivers side , next to the intake manifold. it's black, rectangular and looks like a blank plug. I don't have a picture of one now but i will try to attach it later. GEF

I'd probably be tempted to ignore the lifter tick. Both of mine tick consistently on cold starts. However...a minute is a long time for lifter ticks. Usually mine go away within a few seconds.

I guess it all comes down to how much work you want to do to it. My personal opinion would be to ignore both the lifter tick and other rattle unless it's progressively getting worse, then a teardown is in order.