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Ranger LS-Swap Build


LSX_Marshall

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Here's my current build. A clean 1998 Ranger XLT Ext Cab which came factory with a 3.0 V6 automatic. Tossed that crap and swapped in a 5.3L LS-series Chevy with a TH350 transmission. Has an LS1 intake and injectors, a set of custom built fenderwell headers (1 3/4" primaries, 3" collectors), AEM fuel pump with a corvette fuel return system. Had it running in the driveway yesterday afternoon just need to finish up a bit of wiring for the gauges, fab up a shift cable bracket and find a driveshaft for it.

Which brings me to my question, I am looking for a one-piece driveshaft in the 69-70" range (center-to-center u-joint) to fit this. I had heard that maybe an older long-bed F-series truck with a one-piece aluminum could be in that range. I would just have one made up for it but I have future plans for possibly getting a 6.0L with a 4l80e overdrive which changes that length significantly. Any help or comments welcome! :icon_thumby:
 

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TexasRebel

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Here's my current build. A clean 1998 Ranger XLT Ext Cab which came factory with a 3.0 V6 automatic. Tossed that crap and swapped in a 5.3L LS-series Chevy with a TH350 transmission. Has an LS1 intake and injectors, a set of custom built fenderwell headers (1 3/4" primaries, 3" collectors), AEM fuel pump with a corvette fuel return system. Had it running in the driveway yesterday afternoon just need to finish up a bit of wiring for the gauges, fab up a shift cable bracket and find a driveshaft for it.

Which brings me to my question, I am looking for a one-piece driveshaft in the 69-70" range (center-to-center u-joint) to fit this. I had heard that maybe an older long-bed F-series truck with a one-piece aluminum could be in that range. I would just have one made up for it but I have future plans for possibly getting a 6.0L with a 4l80e overdrive which changes that length significantly. Any help or comments welcome! :icon_thumby:
Like I said in your intro thread, an LS swap wouldn't have been my choice, but as long as you have fun with it, that's all that matters. I don't really support it, but have fun. And about the drive shaft, I have no clue, but I'm sure somebody around here might know.
 

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Since you built a half bread, you will need custom all the way. Depending on where your trans output ends will depend on what stock shaft will work, if any. Odds are, nothing stock will work...

SVT
 

LSX_Marshall

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A small update: I actually did find an aluminum driveshaft to fit out of a GMC Savannah van. It was 71.5 center-center and I had to move the motor forward about a half inch and change the rear flange to make it work but its in there. Just need to build a shifter bracket this weekend so I can test drive it.
 

TexasRebel

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A small update: I actually did find an aluminum driveshaft to fit out of a GMC Savannah van. It was 71.5 center-center and I had to move the motor forward about a half inch and change the rear flange to make it work but its in there. Just need to build a shifter bracket this weekend so I can test drive it.
You got lucky. I searched around on google and couldn't find anything.
 

LSX_Marshall

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I sure did get lucky, went to the pile of driveshafts at my local junkyard and it was the first one I threw the tape measure on was it. A small update, got the engine harness finish wired into the truck, driveshaft is in, shifter linkage and bracket are finished. Haven't got into the gauge wiring yet, hopefully later this week. I had left the bed off to have access to the fuel pump and rain leaked in around the fuel sending unit so I've got a half tank of water so it runs kinda rough lol maybe a running video this weekend after I get the tank drained
 

TexasRebel

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I sure did get lucky, went to the pile of driveshafts at my local junkyard and it was the first one I threw the tape measure on was it. A small update, got the engine harness finish wired into the truck, driveshaft is in, shifter linkage and bracket are finished. Haven't got into the gauge wiring yet, hopefully later this week. I had left the bed off to have access to the fuel pump and rain leaked in around the fuel sending unit so I've got a half tank of water so it runs kinda rough lol maybe a running video this weekend after I get the tank drained
I know what the water leaking in is like.... It sucked having to drop the tank again when it was full of water. I didn't feel like drilling a hole in a plastic tank and putting a drain plug that would probably never seal correctly in it.
 

LSX_Marshall

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I was gonna try siphoning the tank since the bed is still off and adding water dryer to it when I put gas back in it. Hopefully I wont have to drop the tank.
 

LSX_Marshall

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Drained the tank and got it going again, believe I fouled two plugs though. Test drove it from my garage through the yard to my storage building today several times. (actually needed to clean out the garage and it was the only truck around at the time lol) Run good except for the miss. Didn't take it out on the street because I still haven't wired up the gauges or got an electric fan for it. Sill managed a small one-wheel-peel on 6 cylinders though lol. I think the tire clearance is going to be fine around the headers. Looking forward to going to the drag strip in a couple weeks.
 

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the hooker manifolds too pricey for you?


i had a driveshaft here, but didnt see this till now. its from the van i took my 6.5 from.


that miss is not a good sign. did you know and run the motor prior to the swap?
 

LSX_Marshall

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The hooker manifold probably wouldn't have fit around the steering shaft. Only got about 2 inches between the header flange and the shaft. Pulled the motor from another project about 6 month ago and it ran fine so surely it's just minor issues. Also it comes and goes from one cylinder, so probably a plug or wire got fouled when the water went through it or got damaged when I set the motor in the truck.
 

bobbywalter

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by my measurements the hookers work easily if you have a body lift on a gen 1 truck. not so sure of a normal setup.

hopefully it is something simple.

today, my first choice budget swap is a ls type platform for a rbv. there is no comparison with the windsors swapping from running donor to rbv...or any vehicle for that matter, on a budget.
 

LSX_Marshall

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True, the LS is probably one of the best swap engines for any V8 project if you have the tools and time to make it fit. As you know, there are no bolt it kits for an LS in a Ranger. If I got really bored one day I guess I could make an extra set of mounts and a crossmember.
 

bobbywalter

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sawzall?
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i guess i am jaded from experience. the only bolt in kit worth using costs about what a decent 5.3 or 4.8 would run and out perform most any sbf stock for stock.those engines are still relatively easy to get low mile as well.



with the hooker or e rod manifolds there is easy 500 hp support from those and ability to bolt this in with a drill and cut off wheel with some various type of uni mounts or factory mounts, just like most engines. oil pan selection is an issue more then any other for me with the ls.

though i have seen various 1/2 in based flanges/partial girdles for steel based oil pans on a few projects.

look forward to over all result reporting and actual performance and mpg numbers along with costs in time and parts.
 

LSX_Marshall

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Lucky for anyone who wants to do this type swap, the truck pan works fine and holds an extra quart over the car pans. I gave $350 for this motor with just over 100k on it. Anyways, I got to check out the miss today. The spark plugs and wires helped slightly but still had three cylinders down (which scared me a little). Run compression on those three, all were about 180 same as the others. I believe the injectors are clogged up on #5, #7 and #8. Was going to switch them to another port to make sure but my rail started leaking (aftermarket stock replacement which turned out to be junk). Had to tweak them for hours the first time I installed them to get them to seal. So I'm ordering a new set of aftermarket aluminum rails tomorrow. Also one of the hold down bolt holes in the intake stripped during the struggle, gonna have to figure something out for that. Don't really wanna buy another intake. I did however get brave enough to run it down the neighborhood and it did well, smooth driving, good power and probably could have outrun the stock 3.0 on the 5 1/2 cylinders it was running on lol.

If anyone has a set of 24lb blue top Ford injectors (like the ones below) laying around they want to sell, let me know as I need a couple.
 

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