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Almost finished Durasparking my BII


SR185

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I am almost finished with the Duraspark conversion. I have the new harness on, new distributor, module, and carb. couple of questions:

1. Can I use one of the existing red vacuum lines for the distributor?

2. The PCV valve hose ran to the back of the old carb. On the new carb (Motorcraft 2150), there is a vacuum port on the back (facing the firewall), but not a large port for the pcv. What do I do with the pcv hose?
 


kimcrwbr1

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I am almost finished with the Duraspark conversion. I have the new harness on, new distributor, module, and carb. couple of questions:

1. Can I use one of the existing red vacuum lines for the distributor?

2. The PCV valve hose ran to the back of the old carb. On the new carb (Motorcraft 2150), there is a vacuum port on the back (facing the firewall), but not a large port for the pcv. What do I do with the pcv hose?
You use the vacuum tree for the advance (manifold vacuum) and on the egr spacer on the back is the port that was used for the vapor cannister adapt your PCV to fit that. You can eliminate all the vacuum lines that were hooked up to the solenoids they dont work anyway. If you want the air pump to work I just hooked the vacuum ports on the carb up to the valves (ported vacuum). The EGR just needs to be blocked off with a plate and you can hook the vapor cannister up to the vacuum tree with a restrictor so you dont get fuel vapor in the engine compartment and you can hook the PCV up to the tree also it is just the one on the egr spacer is larger and wont plug as fast. All you really need hooked up is the dizzy and PCV and plug everything else off if you want down and dirty. Get rid of all the computer wiring and vacuum hoses just keep the wires you need oil pressure water temp and alternator.
 

SR185

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You use the vacuum tree for the advance (manifold vacuum) and on the egr spacer on the back is the port that was used for the vapor cannister adapt your PCV to fit that. You can eliminate all the vacuum lines that were hooked up to the solenoids they dont work anyway. If you want the air pump to work I just hooked the vacuum ports on the carb up to the valves (ported vacuum). The EGR just needs to be blocked off with a plate and you can hook the vapor cannister up to the vacuum tree with a restrictor so you dont get fuel vapor in the engine compartment and you can hook the PCV up to the tree also it is just the one on the egr spacer is larger and wont plug as fast. All you really need hooked up is the dizzy and PCV and plug everything else off if you want down and dirty. Get rid of all the computer wiring and vacuum hoses just keep the wires you need oil pressure water temp and alternator.
I plugged the vacuum port on the EGR. Can I leave the EGR in place or is it necessary to remove it and fabricate a plate?
 

kimcrwbr1

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If it is not leaking I just left mine in place I keep thinking I will get it working some day but havent figured out how to control it it`s either open or closed and open robs too much power the computer controlled how far it should open but a 1/8th to 1/4 inch piece of flat plate steel with a new gasket and two holes is probably the best bet. If you have an auto tranny you will need to keep the vacuum line to it also.
 

SR185

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What do I do with the starter solenoid wires that are running towards the computer in the big wiring harness? And what is the plastic box below the starter solenoid?
On the intake manifold, there are 2 vacuum ports (one in fron of the carb, and one behind the carb. What should I do with them?
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kimcrwbr1

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What I did was pulled the computer out and unbolted the plate for the wires going thru the firewall pull the connector into the engine compartment and disconnect all the wires from the computer harness up to the alternator and hang them over the front of the truck then from the 8wire connector by the coil going back the other way strip all the tape off those wires back to the alternator so you know what wires to use. Alternator,water temp sensor and oil pressure sensor dont cut those there are only a couple of wires you need to cut to remove the computer harness dont mess with the starter solenoid wires except the one going to the computer harness. You will eliminate about 90% of the wires on the engine on the solenoid you just need the power to the ignition and the start wires. As I said you will only need to cut a couple wires at he 8 wire connector by the coil and cut them long in case you can use them for something. That relay under the starter solenoid goes away with all the computer harness just dont mess with the ignition wires. I say remove all the vacuum hoses and just put back what you need and plug what your not useing. Pix are good and we can get you going shortly you just need to iron out the bugs.
 

kimcrwbr1

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Oh yea dont just toss the old emissions parts some guys need to pass emissions and they are hard to find like the vacuum solenoids and such you can possibly make a buck or just help someone out or both. My engine compartment looks real naked without it yesss.
 

kimcrwbr1

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My phone number is 206-909-3308 I got laid off this morning so call anytime if I dont answer I will call you back shortly as long as your number comes up just leave a message. Kim
 

SR185

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Bummer! I'm sorry to hear that. I hope you are able to find something soon.

I won't be working on the BII today, and might not till later this week. I'll try to be sensitive to the time difference before I call.
 

kimcrwbr1

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I`m usually up at 6am thats 9:00 there if I dont answer I wiil get back as soon as possible not much use until I get my first cup pourded down tho.
 

SR185

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OK!!! I think I have all the wring finished and the engine compartment sure looks neat and tidy compared to before.

I tried to start her and she turns over just fine, but doesn't start. She's getting fuel, so it must be spark.

Tomorrow I will check the spark from the coil and to a spark plug.

I may have to pull the dizzy and make sure it's on #1. I'm wondering if I can pull the dizzy without removing the carb.
 

kimcrwbr1

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pull the #1 plug and put your finger in the hole and take a socket and turn the crank until you feel compression then line the pointer on the engine up with the TDC mark on the damper. Then see if the rotor is pointing toward #1 on the cap about 11 oclock. You can pull the dizzy with the carb on. To check the coil turn the ignition on and put a spark plug in the coil wire off the dizzy and ground it then you take a jumper wire from ground and touch the neg side of the coil or the green wire quick touches you should get spark. It`s kinna nice getting rid of the rats nest of wires and vacuum hoses you can actually see the engine. Get the bugs worked out your getting real close.
 

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I'm getting spark to the plugs. I turned the engine to TDC, on the compression stroke, and it was pointing to 11:00 (#1). It sounds like it is close to starting, but hasn't yet.
 

kimcrwbr1

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You can check the timing by putting the timing light on #1 plug front passenger side and use the solenoid to crank it with the light on the crank. you can also just change the timing light to different plug wires until you can line the timing mark up and use that post on the dizzy for #1 and set the firing order from there. Is your accelerator pump squirting fuel into the venturi when you give it gas. If your flooded hold the throttle all the way open till it fires make sure the choke is all the way open until you can get the carb adjusted.
 

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