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pinned from old 5.0 swap, what works


MrE_Powers

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from jrod

Lets have your info, since the old stuff appears to be gone.

Jared


Mine is.

Duff 4 core rad.
A.A. motor mounts
A.A. Headers
Duff oil filter relocation kit
mustang dual sump pan.
M5OD-R2 tranny, with a A.A. adpater to the stock 13-50 T-case

I went with mostly Trans-dapt parts.
Frame mounts--#9716
Rubber mounts-- '81-'86 F150 (E4TZ6038-H)
Dual sump pan-- '80s Mustang
Pick up--Sealed Power 224-14118
Filter Relocation-- TD1113 plus the 1413 horizontal adaptor

It should be noted that with this pan there is no provision for a dip stick. Must use a '78-up block (tube hole in block) or adapt one to pan.
I had purchased a \"donor\" '79 Granada so I stayed with most of the parts from it.
Installation was simple, the c4 mounted to the Ranger trans mount with no mods although the frame mount had to be move forward a bit but there were existing holes.
I cut the top of the rad support and just use hood pins for 2 reasons 1) It was easier to install the engine/trans combo 2) to install the Granada rad. I used the upper hose from the Granada and the lower hose was a universal \"flex\" hose from a local auto parts store.
I initially used the exhaust manifolds from the Granada (d/side had to be ground on bottom a little for x-member clearance). But switched to Hedman #89500 Pass/side top frame channel had to be ground approx. 1 1/2 inch long by 1/8 inch deep, otherwise they just dropped in.
For the rear I narrowed a 9\"(42\" f-f), moved a set of '64 Comet springs(less spring rate) underneath the frame using Jeep shackles in back and fabbed a set of perches for the front. The stock rear tank still fits. I run 295/50/15s but am switching to 31/16.50/15 MTs...tons of room.
The truck had a v6 and 4spd. auto in it so the springs worked fine...the v8 combo is only about 75 lbs. heavier.
I think that's about it. Geo.


79 Ford 302 Truck engine
OEM C5 with a '77 C4 valve body
B&M shift kit
B&M HiTek cooler
B&M Z gate shifter
C4 bellhousing from Jeg's part# 564-92480, 157 tooth
10 tooth starter drive
Torque converter for C4, 1800-2000 RPM stall
Duff Motor mounts
Duff Radiator
Duff Headers
OEM power steering pump
OEM alternator
OEM A/C compressor
Rad hoses for a '86 V8 F150
Ford dual sump pan w/pick-up
Perma Cool dual filter remote mount
Jeg's V8 style oil line adapter

No cutting of the frame was required
Notched A/C heater box
Retained cruise control
Two holes drilled in frame for motor mounts
Moved A/C condenser in front of support
Holley Truck Avenger, for off road performance

explorer 5.0 radiators fit width wise, but are way too tall, my guess is i'll have mine broken off within the week

1991 efi 5.0 stang motor,
91 stang coupe mounts,
98 explorer exhaust manifolds
91 stang dual sump pan
91 stang T-5 tranny
98 explorer 5.0 radiator
91 stang alternator
no power steering
no ac
92 ranger power brakes
mustang upper heater hose, flexible lower
jegs oil line adapter (be sure to use the one that comes out 90 degrees from the block)
motor sits very low in the chasis, good clearance all around, had to notch heater box, had to drill holes for the motor mounts
posi rear end out of a t-bird
welded the ranger shift handle onto the mustang shifter
kept origional smog equpiment encluding thermactor stuff
dual high flow cats
dual flowmaster 40's (barely fit between the crossmember and the gas tank on the driver's side)
exits before the rear tire

pics here, more to come, painted the truck a couple months ago, still haven't taken pictures
http://www.carnite.net/i885744/ranger.htm

92 5.0HO
Motorsports \"B\" cam
Twisted wedge heads
GT 40 intake
TCI C-4
57 tooth flywheel and bellhosing
3000 rpm stall/torque converter
AA trans to transfer case adapter
duff radiator (SUCKS)
dual pusher fans
L&L headers
L&L motor mounts
L&L oil filter relocation
Jacobs Ignition
Mustang Posi



A better trick for the heater box instead of cutting a hole in it and patching
it back up is to use a heat gun and heat the plastic up VERY CAREFULLY
and mold it back by hand wearing good shop gloves

completely bolt in and go everything fits like a glove or better not a big fan of the duff radiator (prefer aluminum)

'69 302 block
'69 351W heads
'03 Eagle 347 stroker kit
MSD ignition (distributor, ing. box, coil, wires)
stock manifolds
Edelbrock Performer intak/Carb/Cam
Griffen Alum. Rad.
Summit remote oil filter

Simple swap. Just bolted the mounts to the block, lowered the motor down, did a levelin' and drilled. Tranny is a NP435 with the bell it was attached to for a 302, Dana 20 T/case. Chutch is a Wilwood hydraulic master and slave. Works like a dream. Runnin' Centerfore Dual Friction clutch.

Never had to worry about the heater box. Just had to give the firewall a few love taps and that was it.

QUOTE
QUOTE
Simple swap. Just bolted the mounts to the block, lowered the motor down, did a levelin' and drilled.



what mounts did you use?

I'm doing my first swap and i'm on a bit of a limited budget. Trying to find a cheaper alternative to $150 "conversion mounts". I've heard stock stang mounts work?

Someone please help this newbie out. lol.

I used stock 302 motor mounts. Bolted them to the motor and then lowered her in. Tried to keep the motor as level as possible, marked and drilled. It was a lot easier than it seems. I've never had a problem with it. I've done 4 other conversions the same way and no problems.

For future conversions though, I'm going to cut out that POS crossmember, fabricate a new one to put either forward or behind the stock one, build new mount towers and do the set-up that way. It's a lot easier in my opinion, especially if you have to drop the pan.






302 with attached C-4 ( 1979 Cougar)
Duff oil filter relocation
1986 Ranger V-6 mounts ( repositioned )
Custom built BeCool radiator with intercooler
Stock 86 trans crossmember,(holes redrilled 1/4 inch narrower and 3/4 inch more forward
Cut out space in AC plenum for pass side valve cover, filled hole with corner of old frig vegatable drawer ( steel and had nice rounded corner)

Installed engine and transmission together as a unit no problem just had to pull crankshaft belt pulley off for clearance.

No body lift and have tons of room around bell housing area




1st truck setup:

87\" standard cab longbed 2\" body lift, stock suspention
87' 351W mildy built (10.5:1comp, ported heads, 4x4 cam, ~275 hp)
made my own pan by cutting sump off of a truck pan and welding on a kick out. thought of going dry sump, have the parts but havent done it yet.
headers custom made, 15/8\" pri to 3\" fenderwell exit, side piped
adapted a 70's saginaw 4spd to truck bellhousing using 11\" clutch and hydralic
slave
Using a divorced dana 24 transfer case
7.5 rear/d28 front from diesel w/larger yoke
motor mounts from 79' lincon
radiator from 96 ford club van
650 double pumper
stock gas tank, added efi fuel pump and regulator
28k miles on this setup, only problem was oil pump gave out on my on freeway :cry:

2nd truck setup:

87\" standard cab longbed 2\" body lift, 3\" suspention lift
86' 351W stroked to 396ci full race build (12.5:1 victor jr. ported and polished, race cam, main girdle, h beam rods, forged crank ~575hp)
made my own pan by cutting sump off of a truck pan and welding on a kick out. thought of going dry sump, have the parts but havent done it yet.
headers custom made, 13/4\" pri to 3\" fenderwell exit, side piped
adapted a built T5 to truck bellhousing using 12\" clutch and hydralic
slave
Using a divorced dana 24 transfer case
8.8 rear posi/d28 front locked w/larger yoke
motor mounts from 79' lincon
radiator from 98 ford club van
850 double pumper
aluminum race cell mounted behind axle w/ efi fuel pump and regulator

10k miles on it before i realized that i was retarded putting that kind of engine in a 4x4, going to pull it in favor of a 306ci

3rd truck setup:

87\" standard cab (i must like 87's!) 2\" body lift, currently no suspention lift
(looking at a d60 front / d60 rear later)
82' 306ci mild build(10:1 gt40 heads, mild cam and EFI ~225hp)
made my own pan by cutting sump off of a truck pan and welding on a kick out. (i thought if it works so well, why change! plus I have the patteren all drawn out..)
stock f150 exaust manifolds to 2\"
T18 bolted to a 205
8.8 rear tracloc(need d60 w/detroit!)/ d28 front locked soon to be replaced with d60
motor mounts from 80' lincon
radiator from 95 ford club van
EFI
rear gas tank from B2

truck has not left my garage yet (still playing with the EFI)

If I could say anything about these three trucks, its LIFT THE BODY!!! it is so much easier to do these kind of conversions when you have an extra 2 - 3 inches to work with under there. Also dont screw around with using tiny radiators. throw the biggest one in that will fit in the frame. You will be glad you did when you get 20 miles from no where on a 115 degree day




thx,
john
from bad 457



has anyone just straight up pulled a 5.0 coupled to a five speed out of a mustang and dropped the mustang engine and trans in their ranger? if so did it work well and how hard was it.
There's been quite a few who've done what you're asking. The one thing that comes to mind in that swap is the cable linkage on the Stang clutch. You'll need to either fabricate something yourself to adapt it to the Ranger, or buy a slave cylinder setup to work with the Ranger's hydraulic system. Otherwise just about everthing else the Stang 5.0 and transmission will work on the Ranger, with the exception of the exhaust headers. The left side 94-95 Stang header will work in a Ranger, but the rightside is another matter. There's some who trimmed the frame rail to fit that side, Not a good solution in my opinion for a novice, if you're good at welding and fabricating, then go for it. If you're talking about the 94-95 Stang 5.0. then you may get by with a Ranger 4.0 Heavy duty radiator, if it's the earlier 5.0, then you'll need to relocate a radiator into the radiator support.

from pooky

92 exploer 4dr 4x4
88 5.0 ho from a lincoln lsc
AOD tranny with a AA transfer case adapter to stock case
custom motor mounts
heavy duty stock radiator in stock location
dual oil filter relocation kit (90 degree adapter)
electric pusher fan in front of the radiator
reworked headman headers (because the dont fit worth a crap on the 4x4, they do now)
custom dual exhaust with two highflow cats and a pair of super 40 flowmasters and a equalizer tube. sounds real nice
2.5 inch custom made body lift not the cheesy nylon spacers.
(not on the road yet, put just smoked my old tires of the back, cant wait to blow by all these 4.3 s-10 around here that think thier hot stuff ha ha ah.

from projectnitemare

88 Ranger XLT 4x4

75 Granada 351W
FRP 351 double sump pan
69 Mustang C4
69 Bronco t-case
75 Granada D-side maniford
7? LTD? P-side manifold
Holley blue fuel pump
TRS tech motor mounts, pads 1" below stock location
Some big GM radiator tucked under core support
12in electric puller
17in Flexalite
B&M prostick
69 Bronco front d-shaft, custom rear
8.8 Rear
heater box notched

from 88b2

1988 bronco II used to have 2.9 and A4LD

1988 mercury cougar xr7 donor car-

-5.0 from cougar, converted to 5.0 HO and rebuilt (91lx cam, e7te heads, 19lb injectors, fly-cut forged pistons, 306)
-AOD from the cougar, rebuilt and transgo shift kitted
-AA AOD-1350 t-case adapter-drives lines bolted on, had to modify t-case shift linkage
-stock motor mounts lowered and custom motor mount plates made w/ torque limiter
-tranny mount lines up w/ stock tranny crossmember
-94 supercooling exploder radiator-extensive modification
-all front accessories from cougar (same as mustang length and same waterpump)
-retained stock cruise control and hooked the cable from cougar into the stock cruise unit
-stock floorshifter, extensively modified to shift AOD
-cougar wiring harness mixed with stock bronco II stuff
-stock intakes from cougar but upper bored out to match 60mm 'stang TB
-96 tubular explorer manifolds (smoothed out inside welds in pipe)
-majorly notched a/c box
-a/c condenser from cougar
-deleted smog pump and equipment (left solenoids plugged in to fool computer)
-deleted EGR (threaded whole bottom flange of upper intake and put in plug, EGR simulator from fordfuelinjection.com to fool computer)
-tweaked mount for all the TB cables because I removed the EGR spacer
-traded in cougar's computer as a core for a remanufactered 88 'stang computer
-magnaflow 3" single exhaust, dummy cat cut up to make a 2-1 y pipe
-permacool high performance 16" puller (2950cfm)

couldn't have done it w/o a donor car to pull misc. parts off of-highly suggested
done on a <$3,000 budget and I still have some money left over

from vsi347

new ford "r" block
all msd ignition with btm
vortech ysi blower
griffin radiator
csi elec, water pump
ford anderson blower cam
edelbrock 6037 aluminum heads
victor intake with 850 cfm barry grant carb
spal electric fan with intake thermostat
performance automatic c-4 with sfi ultrabell and transbrake
3500 stall converter
fabricated steel motor mounts and trans mount.
street rod specialties trans crossmember
drivetrain specialties driveshaft (lightning driveshaft shortened )
narrowed 8.8 with s@w race cars rear suspension package ( ladder bar)
pro star 15x12 rear wheels with 31 x 15.50 mt's 15x 4 1/2 fronts
456 rear gear
full custom interior, handmade gauge cluster w all autometer instrumentation
4 wheel disc brakes ( still power )
performance red (93 cobra ) paint


from SLEEPINGRANGER302HO

93' XLT Ranger
UAP Electric Fan
Howe Alumanim Rad
Cut apart some hoses till i found some that worked
AC./heater box was hacked and hole was covered with fiberglass
88"302 SD H.O
Stock ignition and fule injection
Mustang Headers, Frame was notched and boxed and bla bla bla
Remote Filter, not sure what brand
F150 Motor mounts
AOD From F150, with B&M Shift kit and Shifter
BW13-56 T-case, tight fit but theres a bit of room to spair
Dual Stainless exaust with hi flow cats and Flowmasters

from 1mean2hd

'94 Ranger Supercab 2wd
.030 over 302 (306 cu. in.) from out of my Mustang
Custom motor mounts
Factory HD radiator
No heat (yet)
10:1 forged flat tops
ported E7 heads
Trick Flow Stage I cam
1.72 ratio roller rockers
70mm Throttle Body and spacer
Tri-Y headers from first gen Mustang
Trick Flow adjustable (50- 250 hp) plate system
Soon to have Trick Flow Track Heat Intake
EFI (what a PITA...)
-AN adapters for Ford fuel rail

T5 trans with bellhousing and clutch from said Mustang
factory handle welded to stock T5 shifter
Nissan 280ZX slave cylinder
stock master cylinder with McLeod adapter
Stock 8.8 rear with 3.08 gears
Stock driveshaft

Should haul a$$$ if I ever get it finished and then get it to hook up....
 
Last edited:


will2045

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wow this is great lots of info but kinda got lost in it. i got a 80 302 in my 1986 bronco 2 with the 4.0l explorer radiator and am running around 215....... and it seems like you struggle to find a decent rad too best suggestion? i gotta get the heat down in this beast its got a 16in electric fan and a 160 deg thermostat and i still cant get it cooler.
 

sham823

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is that a 4 core rad? is the shroud mounted so it works?
 

partin_us_99

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Got a 94 4x4 with the 4.slow in it that im thinkin about swappin a v8 with a t5 trans but idk what to do about trans case or axles????? Any advice would be great my email is partin_us_99@yahoo.com.
 

TheDangerRanger88

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suggestions

i have a 88 ford ranger 2.9l automatic 2wd. what do you think is the all around best 302 and tranny. as in easiest to install/ without robbing performance.
 

88SXT

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i have an '88 2.9l 5spd 4x4 that im dropping a 302 into, probably going with a t-5 trans, need to know what t-case bolts up
 

Twisted_Steel

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I'm running a 91 SB with a stock 302 (600cfm carb) from an 85 GT. AOD from a 91 GT.
Mustang driveshaft.
Hedman conversion kit consisting of headers, engine mounts, and oil filter relocator.
Radiator (modified) is from a late 90's 4.0 Explorer. Home fabricated lower bracket
185 degree thermostat (runs 175-185 mid-summer)
Front mounted twin Taurus cooling fans wired to run with switch on.
Home fabricated bracket to swing the p/s pump higher to so the return clears the frame.
Solid rod throttle linkage w/ Lokar kickdown.
Airtex frame mounted fuel pump model 8012s 5-9psi 30gph
Explorer V8 top radiator hose (cut and extended to clear alternator fins)
Ratchet shifter w homemade linkage
1996 Grand Cherokee bucket seats on Ranger sliders
Mustang carpet (cut and spliced)
 

DangerRanger5L

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Bump for help, I have a 1995 stepside ranger 2wd, I bought a 1995 302 H.O. motor, I found a T-5 out of a 1994 cobra on craigslist. Will this trans work for my swap? I also have a driveline from the same car that the 1995 5.0 came from. I'm extremely new and lost to this American car stuff.
 

alwaysFlOoReD

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Lagz2point0

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My credo
What's the PM got to do with the AM
Currently looking at swapping the motor and trans from an 82 f150 into my 85 2.8 5spd ranger. Anybody have thoughts, pros, cons with this plan?
 

Daniel Black

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I can tell everyone what worked for me on my '87 2wd. Factory 2.0, 5-speed. Factory MS, MB, no A/C.
1970 302
Old style Ford toploader 4-speed with mid-mount shifter.
1979 Mustang oil pan with thread in dipstick tube.
Dipstick from early '70s Bronco
Duraspark distributor plugged to my stock module.
1972 Econoline manual fuel pump.
Trans-Dapt motor mount kit.
Stock trans crossmember with small homemade plate to reach the toploader trans mount.
Stock driveshaft, just changed yoke.
Stock 7.5 rear with 3.73 LS.
$20 swap meet Tri-Y headers.
Tuff Stuff 1-wire alternator just so I didn't have to lengthen my stock wiring.
Trans-Dapt oil filter relication kit(started leaking around 300 miles and still leaks with different hoses and fittings) spend some money there. Don't cheap out like I did.
Stock 1-core 2.9 Radiator, no shroud and mechanical flex fan. No overheating issues.
Modified stock 2.9 upper hose, universal lower hose.
1985 F150 external slave bellhousing.
1985 F150 slave cylinder
1983 Ranger clutch hose to my stock clutch master cylinder.
Stock giant SB Ford starter.
1983 F150 302 throttle cable.
1983 F150 302 alternator bracket.
My stock gauges never worked so I use aftermarket mechanical gauges.
I think that pretty much sums it up. I tried to do it as cheap as possible and it's holding up as my daily driver at about 1000 miles so far. No cutting or hacking up the frame. No body lift. Just had to modify the heater plenum. It did tear the bushings out of my stock crossmember so I picked up a solid member from an early '90s Ranger.
 

Ramcharger90

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85_Ranger4x4

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So I was looking for this for a friend. But im sure we could put this somewhere for people to find who want to use a stainless line instead of the plastic ford line.




View attachment 46294
What do you do for the master side of the line?
 

Ramcharger90

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What do you do for the master side of the line?
Its in this thread 1st post its a Russell fitting but that is for a 3an line.

(Rus-640281)



And you can use this one to adapt the 4an adaptor fitting for the slave cylinder to the 3an line.

 
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