Manual Locking hub - lock nut help

borjawil · Oct 15, 2017

1994 4.0L 4x4 Man locking hubs Dana 35

Bought this truck with approx 210K on it. Runs like a champ. On a trip the front right wheel bearing gave out - no brakes is how I learned of this. Had to order a lock nut kit (2 nuts with 4 slots and a washer with a bunch of holes. Some things were mangled so Im not sure what Im missing on my front axle.

I replaced the Left front bearing as the right side was original. Seems it was already replaced but the splined washer and snap ring on the end of the axle were not there.

Now my right side failed again. Seems the lock nuts backed off.

- What is the proper procedure to replacing the wheel bearings, tightening the locknuts, etc?
- What are the components I need on the shaft after the outer bearing? is there a tabbed washer i need to fold the tabs down into the lock nut grooves?(currently its a lock nut, washer with holes, lock nut, splined washer, snap ring)
- Where can I find the splined washer and snap ring? Part number?

Captain Ledd · Oct 15, 2017

I can't recall how the assembly went together as it's been years since I've been into mine, But I can help with a few things.

The lock nuts backing off has been a known issue. Spec is something like 160 ft/lb-ish? 180? But anyways, taking them up to 210, or 220 ft/lbs and people report having much fewer issues.

First bearing that goes against the race tighten fairly tight, spin the disk around while tightening some more, back the nut completely off, and retighten just barely tight. like just over a lb/ft. Tap your finger on the end of the wrench kind of thing. Then the toothed washer goes on so it fits on the groove in the spindle, and finally that outer lock nut that goes on ridiculously tight.

borjawil · Oct 16, 2017

Appreciate the help. Need some clarity on it though.

put disc and bearings on spindle. put first lock nut on and tighten while spinning disc until it doesn't move. Back off completely, retighten to just snug basically (always been taught to tighten while spinning until it stops then back off a 1/4 turn). Then had washer with holes in it, and tighten second lock nut to approx 200ft/lb

fastpakr · Oct 16, 2017

That sounds right from my memory. I know 4x4Junkie has been using 225 ft-lbs as his secondary torque spec for years.

Captain Ledd · Oct 16, 2017

Not sure why I didn't think to post this the first time but:

Spindle bearing replacement and exploded view,
http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/spindlebearing.shtml

Unfortunately for some of the minor parts you may need to go junkyard searching, either that, the stealership.

The rotor doesn't have to stop spinning, just spin it until the inner locknut doesn't tighten anymore, back it off (don't spin the rotor), and I think the official spec is something like 16-20 INCH pounds. So just over 1lb/ft. I know, while doing it you'll tell yourself there's no way it should be that low but it is. Then the washer with the holes and one tooth that fits in the slot, then crank the living snot out of the outer wheel bearing. 225 ft/lbs or as close as you can get.

Manual Locking hub - lock nut help

borjawil

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Captain Ledd

Well-Known Member

borjawil

New Member

fastpakr

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Captain Ledd

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