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Hagan's '86 Ranger build!


Hagan

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My radius arm mounts/crossmember sit after the tcase. It will sit under the tcase after the doubler. If I moved them down it would look dorky. I don't know if I can move the mounts outward because the wedges force the radius arms in. Have any idea what to do?

 
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Grunizzle

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I see now. My duff arms have a bend in them to get the end of the radius arm under the frame rails. If you can't clock the case high enough, instead of shortening them, I would look into rebuilding the arms with a bend to be able to mount them under the frame rails. If you just shorten them you'll lose travel, and I think that will cause big clearance headaches with the front drive shaft. Also another think to think about when you are down there is where you are going to run your exhaust, if you clock the case way up, you wont be able to run it on the driver side, (unless you plan to just do the stock ford y and passenger side single exhaust thing.) How long is your tranny and cases going to be?
 

Hagan

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I was worried about if I had a bend in the arms it would weaken them. I think if I cut the arms, turned them under the frame, and plated over the joints I would be fine. I was thinking about running the exhaust on the passenger side.

My total transmission, doubler, and tcase length should be exactly 50"

ZF5 - 29.25"
Strong box - 8.25"
NP205 - 12.5"

Measurements I got on other sites.
 

Grunizzle

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I was worried about if I had a bend in the arms it would weaken them. I think if I cut the arms, turned them under the frame, and plated over the joints I would be fine. I was thinking about running the exhaust on the passenger side.

My total transmission, doubler, and tcase length should be exactly 50"

ZF5 - 29.25"
Strong box - 8.25"
NP205 - 12.5"

Measurements I got on other sites.
Yeah thats kind of how I meant to bend in them. Or get some 2'' .25 tube and have someone put the right bend in it.
Dang thats long, mine is only 37'' to the rear output yoke. Do you think you will need a 2 piece shaft on the front?
 

Hagan

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Yeah we'll see when I get the doubler. My engine/transmission/tcase are in, and I measured 27" at front axle to front output on tcase and 46" from the rear axle to the rear output. So, assuming the doubler is 8.25" long, my front driveshaft would be approx 35" and the rear would be approx 38". Is that not ideal? I know most Broncos have a very short rear driveshaft and a long front driveshaft.

What is a 2 piece shaft?
 

Grunizzle

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Yeah we'll see when I get the doubler. My engine/transmission/tcase are in, and I measured 27" at front axle to front output on tcase and 46" from the rear axle to the rear output. So, assuming the doubler is 8.25" long, my front driveshaft would be approx 35" and the rear would be approx 38". Is that not ideal? I know most Broncos have a very short rear driveshaft and a long front driveshaft.

What is a 2 piece shaft?
No that sounds fine. A 2 piece is like a stock super cab rear shaft, it has a bearing in the middle mounted to a cross member for better drive shaft angles
 

Hagan

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No that sounds fine. A 2 piece is like a stock super cab rear shaft, it has a bearing in the middle mounted to a cross member for better drive shaft angles
Ok yeah I knew what you meant then. I'd rather not ever have a 2 piece driveshaft.

What transfercase will you be using with for your doubler? I'm using a 1356. I have one laying around and it has a 2.72:1 low.

I think I will have a decent crawl ratio too.

5.72x2.72x1.96x5.13=156:1
 

Grunizzle

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Ok yeah I knew what you meant then. I'd rather not ever have a 2 piece driveshaft.



What transfercase will you be using with for your doubler? I'm using a 1356. I have one laying around and it has a 2.72:1 low.



I think I will have a decent crawl ratio too.



5.72x2.72x1.96x5.13=156:1

I'm using a planetary set from an np241 because it has a 27 spline input which is the spline count that my 4x4 adapter on the c4 has. Yeah you are definitely going to crawl! My last drivetrain setup was in the nineties for crawl ratio and even with the 4.0 I could crawl everything and never needed anything lower.
 

Hagan

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Long time since I've updated. I got notification that my Strong Box shipped today!
 

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Awesome. Jealous.

Sent from my SGH-M919 using Tapatalk
 

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im diggin these 351 implants,gettin lost of ideas on changing mine up a bit. just curious on how well the v6 motor mounts hold up to the extra weight and torque of the v8. and i see im not the only one that had my motor sitting alittle of center,i used james duff 302 motor mounts and had to turn one upside down to get it to level out. nice build, ready to see that strong box in there!
 

Hagan

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I've been wondering how well the v6 motor mounts hold up too. I will be keeping my 351w stock so I doubt it will be too insane. My goal is just 300hp with the main goal low end torque.

Just got my strong box today! I'm super excited. Unfortunately I need to finish up my f150 before I start this.
 
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Hagan

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I

Just installed my strong box and np205. I had to remove my radius arm crossmember and remove my radius arms from the crossmember itself. I am going to have to shorten my radius arms. They are exactly 48" long. I think I'm going to have to shorten them by 8" or so because the radius arms need to clear the tcase. They sit at the back of the tcase but directly underneath it. If I build a cross member to go underneath the tcase it would hang down too low. In order to tuck it up to the frame I need to shorten them.





 
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BronKitis

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Nice! Bummer about the radius arms for sure.... Your underside looks so bare! Mine looked like a tornado! How does your rear driveshaft angle look? That's strong box sure does look sweet. Nicely done.

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Hagan

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Been awhile since I've upated. Just got the radius arms shortened and built a new radius arm cross member. Not 100% finished but I'm just mocking stuff up.



 

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