Replacing Head Gaskets, Few questions

grantr91 · Sep 19, 2014

Hello eveyone, I am new to the forum, but not new to mechanical work.

Just bought a 98 ranger with only 106k and needs a head gasket. Gonna replace both. I have worked on many different cars and have done many different jobs. However head gaskets will be a first. So I have a few questions:

1. After the heads are off, what do I look for in them to know if they need rebuilt?

2. I would never use anything but oem for headgaskets, but what about the other gaskets, intake, exhaust, etc..And is there a site for oem parts other than going to the dealer?

3. How do I properly clean where the block and heads meet to ensure a proper seal?

4. Anything else I should do while I'm there? I read somewhere to replace the cam position sensor while I'm at it. Anything else?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Grant

Bronco638 · Sep 19, 2014

Hi Grant

#2 - I used to use Fel-Pro when we were racing GT-350 Mustangs. They seemed good. Rock Auto should have Motorcraft stuff.

#3 - I've used a piece of Scotch-Brite with acetone, turpentine or paint thinner. Usually after going over things with a gasket scraper.

#4 - Inspect the cylinder walls for wear? Have a look at the piston tops to see if there's any issues or signs of potential future problems? I've been told that if the CPS isn't making noise, don't worry about it. You also might want to tackle one job at a time (even though having the head off provides more room to access the CPS). Just my $0.02.

RonD · Sep 19, 2014

A head gasket kit will have all the gaskets included and will also have the new valve guide seals

Before disassembling, flush the cooling system with water, disconnect lower rad hose from rad and one heater hose, then run water thru heater hose and heater core, that will flush most of the system, remove rad and flush it separately.

Once removed the heads should be taken to a machine shop to be cleaned and surfaced, they will also replace the valve guide seals, so bring those in with the heads.
After cleaning they will pressure test the heads, it is not uncommon for heads to crack, usually between valve seats.
So you may have a cracked head instead of a failed head gasket, same symptoms.

Generally it is $60-$95 per head(depends on your area) to have them cleaned, surfaced and pressure tested, call around, prices can very widely.
With only 100k miles the valves should be OK but machine shop will inspect them and pressure test would reveal any issues.

You will also need a new set of head bolts, 3.0l had 2 lengths, make sure you take an old head bolt with you to confirm length, I think '99 was the start of longer bolts.

Clean block surface with metal putty knife and wire brush, also bring each piston to the top and clean any carbon off it, check each cylinder for wear marks, if you can feel a mark with your finger nail then you may need to pull engine and do the full rebuild.
You can put a light at one end of the block and then run a straight edge along the block looking for any warping, i.e. light coming thru under the straight edge, if you can find the spot on the head gasket that failed, pay closer attention to that area.

Wipe block and pistons clean with a solvent, wipe some oil on each cylinder wall, place head gasket on block, they should be marked for direction, i.e. top/front
You shouldn't need gasket sealer but can use some on the 4 corners to hold gasket in place as needed.

Follow torque specs and pattern when tightening the head bolts, that part is very important to get a good seal.

I put sealant around the water/coolant passages for the intake when installing just a bit, both sides of the lower intake gasket, personal choice

grantr91 · Sep 19, 2014

RonD said:
A head gasket kit will have all the gaskets included and will also have the new valve guide seals

Before disassembling, flush the cooling system with water, disconnect lower rad hose from rad and one heater hose, then run water thru heater hose and heater core, that will flush most of the system, remove rad and flush it separately.

Once removed the heads should be taken to a machine shop to be cleaned and surfaced, they will also replace the valve guide seals, so bring those in with the heads.
After cleaning they will pressure test the heads, it is not uncommon for heads to crack, usually between valve seats.
So you may have a cracked head instead of a failed head gasket, same symptoms.

Generally it is $60-$95 per head(depends on your area) to have them cleaned, surfaced and pressure tested, call around, prices can very widely.
With only 100k miles the valves should be OK but machine shop will inspect them and pressure test would reveal any issues.

You will also need a new set of head bolts, 3.0l had 2 lengths, make sure you take an old head bolt with you to confirm length, I think '99 was the start of longer bolts.

Clean block surface with metal putty knife and wire brush, also bring each piston to the top and clean any carbon off it, check each cylinder for wear marks, if you can feel a mark with your finger nail then you may need to pull engine and do the full rebuild.
You can put a light at one end of the block and then run a straight edge along the block looking for any warping, i.e. light coming thru under the straight edge, if you can find the spot on the head gasket that failed, pay closer attention to that area.

Wipe block and pistons clean with a solvent, wipe some oil on each cylinder wall, place head gasket on block, they should be marked for direction, i.e. top/front
You shouldn't need gasket sealer but can use some on the 4 corners to hold gasket in place as needed.

Follow torque specs and pattern when tightening the head bolts, that part is very important to get a good seal.

I put sealant around the water/coolant passages for the intake when installing just a bit, both sides of the lower intake gasket, personal choice

Thanks RonD, Very helpful information. For a solvent does lacquer thinner work? And do I clean the carbon off the pistons with the solvent? Also do you recommend I use only motorcraft for the gaskets?

thanks again.

grantr91 · Sep 19, 2014

Bronco638 said:
Hi Grant

#2 - I used to use Fel-Pro when we were racing GT-350 Mustangs. They seemed good. Rock Auto should have Motorcraft stuff.

#3 - I've used a piece of Scotch-Brite with acetone, turpentine or paint thinner. Usually after going over things with a gasket scraper.

#4 - Inspect the cylinder walls for wear? Have a look at the piston tops to see if there's any issues or signs of potential future problems? I've been told that if the CPS isn't making noise, don't worry about it. You also might want to tackle one job at a time (even though having the head off provides more room to access the CPS). Just my $0.02.

Thank you Bronco

RonD · Sep 19, 2014

Just a wire brush is fine for the pistons, you can use the putty knife as well.
Probably not the solvent until all the "big stuff" is off.
Solvent(acetone, turpentine or paint thinner) is mainly to wipe down surfaces without leaving a residue, so final clean.
"Elbow grease" is best cleaner for this

Yes, lacquer thinner should be fine

Like Bronco said Fel-pro has always been a go to brand for me, but I am sure Motorcraft would be good as well

det107 · Sep 20, 2014

grantr91 said:
And do I clean the carbon off the pistons with the solvent?

RonD is #1 but I use hand cleaner w/pumice & fine steel wool very carefully. It will come out shiny-

redneck15431 · Sep 20, 2014

RonD hit the nail on the head here. As far as getting the gasket material off, I always use (carefully!!!) a sharp razor blade and careful to not dig into the deck surfaces. Drag a fingernail across the surfaces to see if you can feel any high spots or gasket material that you can't necessarily see. It's very important to get all the gasket material off or you will be tearing it all apart again. You'll notice that you'll see an outline where the old gasket was. Don't worry about this...it's just residue that is burned into the block/heads from the old gaskets..don't try to dig it out..you'll damage the deck surfaces. As long as the surfaces are smooth, you'll be fine.

If you plan to do this over a course of a few days, use ATF or some sort of motor oil, or WD-40 to coat the deck surfaces and your cylinder walls well so they do not flash rust. Of course, you need to remove all the oil residue before reassembly with brake cleaner or some sort of cleaner that will not leave a residue.

Also, before reassembly, I like to spray some WD-40 in the cylinders and rotate the engine by hand until all cylinders reach TDC and then all the way back down and wipe the cylinder walls clean to remove any debris that may have fallen into the cylinders during gasket removal. The WD-40 will make whatever debris in there stick to the cylinder walls. I like to use a vacuum as well. I'm sure I do it a little overkill, but I prefer the peace of mind.

As far as the carbon, I prefer to leave it alone unless there is a ton of it built up on the pistons. I'm sure this is just personal preference and most people remove it, but I heard that carbon pieces can get stuck between the cylinder wall and the piston and score the cylinder walls/damage rings :dunno:

.

The 3.0 head gaskets are easy to do. Don't be intimidated, just take your time and have patience. Good Luck!

BRUTUS_T_HOG · Sep 20, 2014

Fel pro head gasket sets work fine. New head bolts. Thoroughly empty, clean, and dry the head bolt holes.

Drain the coolant out of the block before removing the heads or coolant will enter the cylinders and get into the oil pan. Coolant kills bearings and rings.

Scrape with a razor blade only. DO NOT use abrasives such as sand paper or scotch brite, these can cause gouges and allow abrasive material to get trapped in the rings and crankcase.

Send the heads to a reputable machine shop to be checked and rebuilt if needed.

When you are ready to install the heads you need to saturate a lint free cloth in brake cleaner and wipe the surfaces clean. Lightly oil the threads and bolt heads and torque in sequence.

Change the oil before running.

RedNeckRanger · Sep 21, 2014

Was the engine overheating and that's the reason for the head gasket? If it was, I would do like previously mentioned and take the heads to a good machine shop to be checked out and resurfaced. It would be a good idea to make sure the block is flat with a straight edge too. I would also change the thermostat at the same time. Use new head bolts too, they are usually sold separately from the head gasket set.

adsm08 · Sep 21, 2014

I like to take a spray can of the copper gasket sealer and coat the new head gaskets before install. I've never had an issue not doing it, but an old engine builder told me once that he has always done it that way, and I've been doing it ever since. No problems yet.

grantr91 · Oct 3, 2014

Awesome tips, thank you guys!

I have a couple other questions now.

1. should i have put the engine at TDC before disassembly? and

2. Took the heads to the machine shop, was told they are trash, about 8 cracks in each. So my question is does the engine need to be at TDC before reassembly? In other words should i put it at TDC before putting on the new heads? and will i need to do anything special to ensure that the timing will be right?

3. OEM headbolts or doesnt matter?

Thanks guys.

adsm08 · Oct 3, 2014

Engine position at teardown is unimportant, you are gonna spin it once it's apart to clear the cylinders of coolant.

I like to set the engine back to TDC before I put the heads back on just because you need to know that spot for timing things and it's easiest to find with the head off.

I will only use OEM head bolts. Fel-Pro is the best name out there in aftermarket parts, except for APR with are big bucks, and I have heard enough stories of Fel-Pro head bolts being loose after a year that I will spend the few extra dollars for OEM.

Oh, and don't forget to put a light coat of oil on the bolts before install so that they don't gall going in.

grantr91 · Oct 3, 2014

adsm08 said:
Engine position at teardown is unimportant, you are gonna spin it once it's apart to clear the cylinders of coolant.

I like to set the engine back to TDC before I put the heads back on just because you need to know that spot for timing things and it's easiest to find with the head off.

I will only use OEM head bolts. Fel-Pro is the best name out there in aftermarket parts, except for APR with are big bucks, and I have heard enough stories of Fel-Pro head bolts being loose after a year that I will spend the few extra dollars for OEM.

Oh, and don't forget to put a light coat of oil on the bolts before install so that they don't gall going in.

What are these Timing things you speak of? What will i have to do when putting on the new heads to ensure proper timing? I have a haynes manual but it does not go into this I dont think. I will double check when I get to where the truck and the book are.

Thanks

stmitch · Oct 4, 2014

Your engine timing shouldn't be affected by removing the heads. The timing chain controls the timing by keeping the crank and camshafts in sync so as long as you haven't touched the timing chain you should be fine. The cam synchro would need to be installed at TDC if you removed it, but you don't need to remove it to pull the heads.

You should be able to bolt the heads back on with out having everything at TDC. The reassembly process should basically just be the removal process in reverse. Bolt the heads on using new bolts and torque to spec. Load the pushrods, torque the rocker arms down to spec, then install the intake manifolds, exhaust manifolds, valve covers etc.

Replacing Head Gaskets, Few questions

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