Anyone up for a hardcore 3.0 build?

First off, I'm an automotive machinist. I machine and build engines for a living, if you could call it that. I used I to hold the ASE Master Machinist until they quit testing for it.

I've a 2wd 94 Ranger, std cab short bed. 3.0 and 5 speed. 3.08 rear.

My primary reason for this build is not max power, but for max torque and fuel efficiency. It currently has about 194K on it, and it's getting 300 miles a tank. I drive 35 miles total a day.

I'm trying to source a 2002 MY engine. That way I get the strongest block, a 5 counterweight crank, and a pair of hopefully uncracked heads. I have a pair of heads I've already done, but the port work I've done sucks. (I hate porting heads, they never look good to me even though they're probably fine)

I've already done my usual 50 ^ valve job, ordered the custom valves from Manley, gonna do the upper valvetrain with 2V Modular springs and retainers. That stuff will work either way with the heads I have now or the new pair.

Since I'm both a Wiseco and Diamond dealer, gonna see which can get me the best deal on pistons. Gonna go 4032 to set it up as tight as possible. Gonna do the later model domed and strutted piston with wire locks. I'm thinking Total Seal gap less second rings; had a lot of good luck in the past.

Full blueprint on the block, setting it up tight. Close to 0 deck. Gonna make my own torque plate. Balance it to a gnat's ass. Float the rods, steel on steel will be fine for me.

Sending the cam to Delta for a regrind, and using later model timing set, it's narrower.

Setting up the bottom end at minimum spec, like .0008 rod clearance and .0012 mains on King bimetallic bearings. I have a new Melling pump I've blueprinted and want no more than 20 psi at idle with 0W-20.

Up top standard lower intake, ported of course, and a composite upper.

I'm still up in the air on rockers because I wanted to go non adjustable, rail style 289 stuff... Until I went 7mm on the valve stems. I'm thinking of just using the standard rockers because even back in the day on the 5.0s they kicked ass.

Y'all talk at me and give me insights, please.

I talk at everyone before I do anything

You want efficiency, go with full roller rockers and lifters. As for the bearings, I'd go with the Teflon coated for decreased rolling resistance. Timing chain, swap out to a belt drive, less drag and more accurate. Depending on how much you want to press the efficiency level on less resistance, you can pull the traditional oil pump and go electric. Where you located? I'm in the process of planning an engine fresh up and could pick your brain some...


SVT

I wasn't expecting a response from a twatwaffle about my build..

Electric drive for the oil pump...

Piss off.

I'm from Yellow Bullet. If y'all fool with me, woe be unto you.

cathalex said:

Y'all talk at me and give me insights, please.

Click to expand...

cathalex said:

I wasn't expecting a response from a twatwaffle about my build..

Electric drive for the oil pump...

Piss off.

I'm from Yellow Bullet. If y'all fool with me, woe be unto you.

Click to expand...

That's inviting. Piss off yourself.

Your new to this site, so I'll let that one slide. You asked for advice. If you don't like or want responses, you shouldn't have asked for it. I have a vast knowledge of engines, have built a few. Btw, I'm ASE certified and know what I'm talking about. The electric oil pump idea was just a thought, not a must have...

SVT

RangerSVT said:

Your new to this site, so I'll let that one slide. You asked for advice. If you don't like or want responses, you shouldn't have asked for it. I have a vast knowledge of engines, have built a few. Btw, I'm ASE certified and know what I'm talking about. The electric oil pump idea was just a thought, not a must have...

SVT

Click to expand...

No worries, mate. I wasn't trying to be a bad guy, I'm just jaded from so many years on Usenet and also the Bullet.

I've been doing this all my life, family business. Built everything from a 3 cyl Geo to numerous 632 BBCs. But I've been doing a lot of Mod stuff and other trick machine work, and applied it to this 3.0 build. Just wanted some insight and replies on what I'm doing.

We're all mates here, and I apologise for being abrasive. But I will provide a running commentary on the build as I go along. Pics coming soon.

I'd think twice about using 5.0 rockers. There seem to be geometry issues that lead to premature wear on the valve tips. You may have a way around this since you're a machinist, but I wanted to at least notify you. There's a pretty good thread about the issue with pics just a couple posts under this one.

Other than that, the build sounds cool. If efficiency is the final goal, I had great experience with my underdrive pulleys and e-fan. They returned between 2-3mpg for me. I'd highly recommend both of those.

Also, you should check out my supercharged flex fuel build up here: http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=102433

It's all good, we're looking forward to the pics


SVT

Your on track with the block & crank, believe it or not the stock pistons will survive 20 psi of boost, been there done that, its the rod bolts that are weak (too small) & will stretch on you as well as the head bolts, they will not take that type of abuse or increased cylinder pressure.

As from my porting experience with 3.0 heads, leave the runners small, 600+ finish on the runners, leave the bump in the runners, focus on the exhaust port in the head pocket, try to get away from the shelf design and more like a bowl similar to a Chevy, polish the pockets, these 3.0 heads are very poorly cast, many ridges and such. Its the exhaust that is more restrictive. Intake side flows pretty well on the bench tests.

They will breath very well afterwards, as for springs on the 7mm valve stems go with a set of Comp cams bee hive springs for an LS1, they are almost a direct fit, less weight than 2 springs and all the pressure you will need. You will need to step up to roller lifters from a 302, the stock 3.0 lifters wont like the new increased spring pressure.

Take a close look a the lower intake, lots of room for improvement there, as well as you may want to fab up an oil splash tray for it to keep the oil off the bottom of the intake.

Good luck and post some results, always neat to see a built 3.0. I did mine about 2+ years ago, then added the blower and then totally changed directions on the build, went to a very free flowing motor on the top end, lost a bit of torque (didnt really matter as it was wheel spin) but what a difference on the big end.

JP02XLT

Hey mates, I have the pics of the semi finished heads. How do I post them up?

Go to photobucket.com, sign up, upload from your computer/laptop/tablet/phone, then copy the IMG link and paste it in your post...

SVT

Test

http://[IMG]http://i1335.photobucket.com/albums/w674/cathalex/16469834-EED8-45BB-A5A4-72FDDE7C5BFE-750-00000087EFB51921_zps6e5ddb7b.jpg[/IMG]

Made some more progress this morning, I had the short block these heads came off of. I pulled a piston/rod and measured the stack. It calculated out at 8.645". This is using a 1.535 CH piston, measured rod length of 5.535 and stock stroke.

Then I did some looking, using a Ford mod 4.6 self flattop, and a 4.6 mod stroker rod on stock stroke. 1.220CH, 5.85 rod and stock stroke. I have a couple sets of these stroker rods.

All I have to do is narrow up the rod width, and grind the crank from 2.125 to 2.00. I'm not that much afraid of losing cross section, especially if Morana is stroking to another .3 of a liter larger.

My current plan is to buy a new block and crank. I have a timing cover and timing set. I'd only need lifter spider and a good roller cam core. I'm also thinking about scoring a pair of later model aluminum valve covers with coil mount, because when I do the intake swap I need a place for my single coil.

I also come from the old skool of hotrodding. Don't have what you need, make what you need. Retrofit and refit other applications. I love doing this stuff!

Interesting build, torque increase from such a small engine will be interesting to see.

I wanted to install a 5.0 but moving to SoCal so I do not know what to do and this thread looks interesting.

Will be watching, thanks