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4X4 drive shaft


Rhymeswithteeth

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I was told the drive shaft on my '05 lvl 2 has internal components (ie: inner sleeve, corrugated material) that, after taking a hard knock, can break free, thereby causing an imbalance in the drive shaft and some vibration.

Is this true? Photos?
 


adsm08

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Yeah, there is stuff in there for the slip joint. By the time you hit the drive shaft hard enough to cause that stuff to break loose your vibration is more likely caused by the fact that you bent the drive shaft.
 

Rhymeswithteeth

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Not sure what you mean. I realize there's a slip joint (and, currently, mine needs to be cleaned and re-lubed), but what about inside the main portion of the drive shaft? Is there, in fact, a separate inner sleeve and some corrugated material?
 

adsm08

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Yes. The male end of the slip yoke should be the front. The female side is in the rear of the shaft, the big round tube, and so all that crap that you are talking about is in there, and it is for the slip yoke. Aside from the splines the tube should be fairly hollow. The last one I opened up, from an F-150, was stuffed with cardboard around the slip-yoke splines.

But those tubes are pretty delicate. Like I said, by the time you knock one hard enough to break a weld inside you have probably bent, or punctured, the tube.


Are you asking these questions out of curiosity, or do you have an actual issue you are chasing?
 

Rhymeswithteeth

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Yes. I have a vibration at 80 kms (50 mph) and beyond. It's not severe, but it's there and I'd like to fix it.

Initially, I went to a garage to find out about the double clunk when excellerating from a stop, and the single clunk when coming to a stop. They weren't able to figure out what was causing the clunk (later, by way of reading some posts on forums, I realized the clunk was due to the slip yoke needing to be re-greased), but, while I was there, they pointed out to me that there's a single 'clank' in my drive shaft.

They had it up on a hoist and had it in Drive with someone inside excellerating and decellerating. Using a headset and microphone, you could hear a distinct, single 'clank' each time upon excelleration and, again, upon decelleration. They said there's something broken inside my drive shaft. They weren't trying to sell me a drive shaft. In fact, they recommended a couple of auto wreckers to pick up another drive shaft, and, they said that the job wasn't to difficult and I could, probably, do it, myself.

Just wanted to get further info on whether, in fact, there is components inside the drive shaft that could break free causing the 'clank' and an imbalance leading to the vibration.

Before learning about re-greasing the slip yoke to get rid of the double clunk, I took the drive shaft out to see if I could determine if, in fact, something was loose inside. Couldn't determine anything, so I put the drive shaft back in. I checked the universal joints and they were in good condition - snug, but moving freely and smoothly. Vibration is still noticable...in the seat and the steering wheel.

P.S. As a result of hammering the flange to unstick them from each other, I guess the vibration of that was enough to free up the slip yoke. Once the drive shaft was back in, I didn't have the double clunk, but I know I need to take the shaft out, again, to properly re-grease the slip yoke.
 

adsm08

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Vibrations (including noises) are one of the easiest things to diagnose in person, and one of the hardest to do over the internet.

My advise, since this is a 4x4 truck, would be to remove the rear drive shaft, throw it in 4-hi, and go for a quick drive, see if the vibration is still there. If it is gone, then you def have a problem with the rear shaft, and I would probably start with a procedure known as a "dual hose clamp balance".

It's pretty simple, you draw 4 lines on the drive shaft, take a hose clamp, and put it on so the screw is in one of those 4 quadrants. Drive it and see if the vibration is better or worse. Move it around until you find the spot that is best. If two spots seem equally good you put a second clamp on and put one screw in each spot.
 

Rhymeswithteeth

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Thank you for your reply, adsm08.

Is it safe to drive the truck at 50mph, and above, (since that's where I begin to notice the vibration) without the rear drive shaft?

I like the dual hose clamp suggestion. Genius. Would have never thought of that, myself. And, of course, as I did when I removed the shaft, earlier, it's important to, first, mark the flanges so that you re-install the shaft the same way it came out (for those who might be reading this thread and didn't know.)

Thanks, adsm08. If you say it's safe to drive over 50mph without the rear shaft, I'll follow your suggestion and report back. Might not be for a a week, or two, until I have the time.
 

adsm08

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I wouldn't try to go on a long trip like that, but just running around town long enough to check and see if the vibration is gone is safe enough.
 

Rhymeswithteeth

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Thanks for the info, adsm08. I'll tackle this project in the third week of Oct., then I'll report back.
 

adsm08

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31X10.50X15
Report away. I'll be moving that week, so I may or may not be on.
 

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