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Flashing Dash Lights and Flashers


Patriot1776

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Hey all,
I have an interesting problem with my 1992 Ranger 4.0 Auto 4X4 XLT ext cab.

So I was cruising down the freeway on my way to work when the rig stopped running and died leaving me stranded on the side of the freeway during rushhour on my second day on the new job. Thought it was the alternator --- changed it out and had the old one tested after I tested it at home with a meter. It turns out to be good. Brought the new one back after it failed to fix the issue.

Starter has always been kinda skittish about performing like a champ, on my third one, replaced the starter cable with one I built out of 2/0 welding cable. Replaced connectors on the negative cable at the battery. Went to start it and the dash lights and the hazards were flashing along with the anti-theft indicator on the dash. Pulled the Ford factory theft system box down and found a whole mess of wires with fuses (all good) along with a box with what appears to be a rheostat in it. I unplugged the main plug on the theft system to get it to shut off. The relay was going nuts inside it.

I have the battery on a trickle charger for the night to make sure it is fully charged before I start messing around with it again.

The starter doesn't seem to get any juice when I hit the key.

I must have screwed something up but I don't know what it is.

Any guidance would be awesome.

Thanks!:icon_confused::icon_confused:
 


Patriot1776

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Update: Charging the battery didn't seem to help any.

New question: How do I bypass the factory anti-theft system?
 

RonD

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There would be no "factory" anti-theft system in a 1992 Ranger, dealer installed alarm maybe.

Why did you suspect an alarm system problem?
Have you had past problems with this?

And why suspect alternator problem if engine stopped running?
Did all the gauges go off at the same time the engine died?

There is something missing in the events leading up to the sudden stopping of the engine on the highway.

Here is a generic list of alarm wiring for '92-'94 Ranger: http://www.commandocaralarms.com/wiring/1992-1994/ford/ranger/815.html
 

Patriot1776

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Thanks for the input, the factory alarm was in fact the issue. Not the issue that caused the truck to die on the freeway but it was triggered after I did the work on the negative battery cable.

The original issue was that the battery would go dead while driving leaving me on the side of the road. This is typical of the alternator being bad. Or as I found out the grounding not being sufficient. I got the alternator to start charging the battery again but at a limited 12 volts which it should be around 14 volts when charging. I think I have more work to do to the grounding system before I go replacing more parts.

The alarm system has a handy little reset button mounted to the right of the hood latch release. I found out that by holding this button down while turning the key allowed the rig to fire up.

 

Patriot1776

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A pic of the alarm system. Likely dealer installed as you suggested ron.
 

RonD

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That is commonly called a "Valet button", you push it to temporarily disable alarm.

Looks to be a dealer installed system from the wire splices.
These can often be disabled by removing a fuse in cab fuse panel, I couldn't find a link to show which fuse

Check the fusable links or Fuses in the engine compartment.
The "ON" switch for the alternator is the Battery light and/or voltage meter.
When you turn on the key 12volts will go thru the battery light(volt meter) to the alternators voltage regulator, since alternator is not turning(making power) it is a "ground" so battery light will be on.
When engine starts and alternator is working the battery light will go out because it has 12volts(13.6v) on key side and alternator side, so no ground.

If battery light is not working then that would cause a problem
 

Patriot1776

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Battery light stays on when the engine is running. I measure 12 volts between alternator and ground and also between alternator and negative terminal on battery. This makes me believe it is a poor block to firewall ground. I will tackle that next week when I again have time to get to it.
 

RonD

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Alternator is off then.

The B+ terminal on an alternator(the big one) is connected directly to the battery's positive cable(via a fuse), so will always read battery voltage(12v), if fuse is good.
Key on or off wouldn't matter, it is a direct connection so when alternator is working it can charge the battery and run all the electrics.

With engine off battery voltage should be 12.2v to 12.8v, 12.7 or 8 is a new battery, when battery gets down to 12.2v it is about 5-6 years old and time to shop for a battery sale.
With engine running, and alternator working, minimum battery voltage should be 13.5volts, or 1volt above engine off battery voltage, that is a "maintenance charge" it is not charging the battery just maintaining it at 12.5volts.

Just after starting engine the battery will be drained so alternator(voltage regulator) will increase the voltage going to the battery to 14.5-14.9volts, this recharges the battery, and this voltage should only last a few minutes, if it continued the battery would "cook" and plates inside the battery would be damaged.
 

Patriot1776

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Hmmmm...... so are you saying that both alternators were faulty?

Your statement "alternator is off then" was clear as mud for this numbskull (aka me). Or it could be my meter not working properly, I'll be checking with a different meter that is a little more robust. I've gotta get this thing back to being reliable enough to daily drive.
 

RonD

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Alternator spinning with engine RPMs of 700 and up should output a minimum of 13.5volts.
If you just read 12volts(battery voltage) on the back of the alternator(B+ terminal) with engine idling then alternator is turned off.

An alternator is pretty much the same as an electric motor, but used in reverse.
The rotor in the alternator has brushes just like an electric motor, when voltage is applied to these brushes the alternator would spin on its own, like an electric motor, the fan belt would prevent this but the battery would be drained by the constant draw of power to the brushes when engine was off.
The power to the brushes is cut when key is off, so alternator can not draw power and drain the battery.
This power comes from the battery light circuit and goes to the voltage regulator inside the alternator, the voltage regulator supplies power to the rotor.
The engine spinning the rotor amplifies the power the voltage regulator sends to the rotors brushes, if voltage regulator sends 7volts to brushes then alternator's B+ terminal would be 13.5 volts, if it sends 8 volts then B+ would have about 14.5volts
This changes with RPMs of course, voltage regulator changes the voltage at the brushes to maintain the 13.5volts.
 

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Thats an old school code alarm system, made for ford. Probably the best type of alarm system ever designed. Take the two starter interupt wires going into the brain via female quick disconnects, connect them to each other and disconnect the power to the brain. That'll properly disconnect the alarm system and allow you to start the truck...

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Patriot1776

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Thanks guys for the input. It took me a while to get back to working on this project / headache with the holidays and whatnot. I'm gonna be trying to disconnect the alarm system and further test the alternator this week.
The engine idles between 500 and 650 rpm typically on this particular engine.
 

Patriot1776

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I still haven't managed to figure out the electrical issues, so off to the real mechanics to get them to help get it back to daily driver status! Then to get the windshield replaced and prep the interior for sound deadening mats and truck bed liner, it'll be ready for some mud after that. Another question though is all about your opinions on swapping the truck bed for a flatbed? What do you think should I or shouldn't I?
 

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