Power Mirror How To?

I think you would need to start with the door electronics to see if there is a connector for the power options. If yes, not such a hard thing to do...if no...you may need to swap in a wire harness for the options in the doors...like speakers, windows, locks, and mirrors.

My 96 did not have power mirrors, locks, or speakers but there was a fairly complex set of wires running to the kick panel. The wiring inside of the door was actually only two wires...not even sure how the overhead light was activated when the doors opened but they were on a separate harness that fed the rear cargo lights, seat belt chimes and a few other things.

So...I'd suggest pulling the kick panel to find out how many wires go to the doors first...then find the wiring diagram for both years to see if they match up...

chvlfrk:

I went whole hog - Power Locks/Power Mirror/Power Windows, because the difference in effort was trivial (I was pulling the dash to fix the lighter wires, the heater flap and run one set of wires; might as well run all 3...)

I'm anal; all the connectors are OEM; no cutting and taping wires. (I have gotten good at removing wires from connectors with pick) When I removed the wires from the 'donor'; I got all the possible wires...

All standard legal mumbo jumbo - you're doing this at own risk...

Power mirrors:

Disconnect battery.

Assuming wires weren't there:

Open up driver's door remove door panel; see if you have wires already there (not likely, but one can hope). Remove manual mirror; install power mirror. Connect wires to mirror and door switch; remove wires from speaker; replace with new wires from donor. Tape existing speaker wires to connector on 'donor' wires. Close up door; enjoy adult fizzy beverage.

I pulled the 'boot' between door and cab loose at this point to simply the procedure.

Using the existing speaker wires; pull the new wires to the cab.

Remove kick panel inside drivers door; separate connector for door wiring (speakers). Pull the existing wire out; untape. Plug connector with ALL the new wires back into harness.

Repeat on passenger's side: In my '98, the connector is actually under the dash and I had to loosen the air bag module on the kick plate to get the wires past.

Here's where my method is a LOT of extra work.

Drop dash. I wound up running wires through 3 connectors (correct colour/location in each) to get from the drivers kick panel to passengers... And one wire from driver's kickpanel up to the instrument fuse panel (resistor 1 - 7.5A mini) is the power mirrors in my '98.*

Reinstall dash, enjoy power mirrors and rest of package of adult fizzy beverages.

* I ran an extra wire to each door; so if I ever want to do signal mirrors the wire is there. (I would have run 2 - one for heated mirrors too, but connector didn't have enough pins and I wasn't about to start ALL over with one with sufficient pins.

If you are adding locks and windows; you need to add a couple relays, and make sure your GEM and handle power locks and windows (Mirrors don't connect to GEM so no issue there).

I can draw up the '98 wiring diagram if you want.

Hope this helps.

Don4331: Nice...sounds easy when the adult fizzy bevvy is added...it usually complicates my progress where I end up doing the finishing touches another day...not usually the following day if the bevvy pack is large enough...

chvlfrk: I would start either way with the existing wires...pretty sure at some point they started wiring every option in...sometime after 92 but no idea really...my 88 had some power features orginally (like seat controls) but was otherwise base model...the 96 looks like it had wired everything to the dash level and they would just add doors with the other options as ordered or otherwise...

The 92 I stripped was also a base model with no extra wiring anywhere...only what was stock in the base model. They also changed the wire harness around 95 so they were more 'modular' from what I can tell...just plug and play from the dash leads to the firewall and doors...