Suggestions for removing harmonic balancer

Bapfoutz · Jun 1, 2015

anyone have a idea how to remove the harmonic balance without taking radiator out. And without turning the engine backwards. And no I don't want to crank the engine while proping the breaker bar against the ground or top of engine to loosen bolt. Doesn't sound like a good idea

adsm08 · Jun 1, 2015

Stick a breaker bar in there and bump the engine while it is propped on the frame or the ground. It's a fine idea and works quite well.

Your only other alternative would be an impact gun, but that probably won't fit past the radiator.

kunar · Jun 1, 2015

a low profile impact gun or possibly an impact swivel and extension?

Bapfoutz · Jun 1, 2015

I think I'll try that with swivel and impact before crank the engine. If I crank the engine with breaker bar, would it throw timing off?

RonD · Jun 1, 2015

I assume you have an automatic transmission?

On a 3.0l, no, the valve timing is set by crank gear and cam gear connected by a timing chain located inside the timing cover, so behind crank pulley.
Turning crank or removing pulley will not effect anything inside the timing cover.

If you have removed the CPS(cam position sensor) and synchro housing, then yes turning the crank will effect its timing, put it back in and then use breaker bar and bump starter motor.

Yes it can "fall off" but just put it back on, it can't "fly off".
The crank turns clockwise, so put the breaker bar on the drivers side against the ground, so ground will stop bolt from spinning clockwise, crank turns bolt doesn't so bolt unscrews, counter-clockwise.

One important thing.................MAKE SURE SPARK is disabled, don't want engine to start

But all in all you will probably have to remove the radiator since you will need a puller to get the pulley off in any case

Bapfoutz · Jun 1, 2015

Yeah it's automatic, ok so I need to pull the four bolts to take off pulley from H/B but when I try to loosen them it tries to turn the crank backwards also, would turning counter clockwise would mess up timing ? That's what I was told

RonD · Jun 1, 2015

You were told wrong, you can manually turn the crank in either direction, and as much as you want.

Many use a Strap wrench on a pulley to hold it while removing bolts.
Google: strap wrench

They are not expensive and have many other uses, from opening a jar of pickles to unscrewing a threaded pipe

adsm08 · Jun 2, 2015

Bapfoutz said:
I think I'll try that with swivel and impact before crank the engine. If I crank the engine with breaker bar, would it throw timing off?

For the small amount you need to, it is extremely unlikely. The key is to unplug the coil so the engine can't actually start. Even so, the crank and sprockets are keyed, so they can't slip against each other.

Many newer engines use friction washers to hold everything in time, and on those engines what you are worried about is a very real possibility. The 3.0 is a much older design and much more intelligence went into it.

Rearanger · Jun 2, 2015

Don't be squeamish about using bump starter method. I've done it a few times on non-Rangers and it works very well.

You will however need a method to hold the balancer/pulley when re-torquing on install. Strap wrench may not work too well depending on torque needed. You may need to use a large screwdriver to hold flywheel, with helper, or possibly with the four bolts of pulley. You probably can fashion a simple tool for this.

Bapfoutz · Jun 2, 2015

Rearanger said:
Don't be squeamish about using bump starter method. I've done it a few times on non-Rangers and it works very well.

You will however need a method to hold the balancer/pulley when re-torquing on install. Strap wrench may not work too well depending on torque needed. You may need to use a large screwdriver to hold flywheel, with helper, or possibly with the four bolts of pulley. You probably can fashion a simple tool for this.

Doesn't the bolt tighten from the engine rotation if u just hand tighten

adsm08 · Jun 2, 2015

Not exactly. If that were the case then how tight the bolt is wouldn't matter. When you crank the engine over the shock of it starting tries to loosen the bolt (bolt stands still, crank goes to the effectively making the bolt go left in relation to the crank). When the engine is running you have a net zero effect. When the engine stop, or is decelerated quickly like slamming on the brakes the shock effect works to tighten the bolt by giving it a net right hand movement. Crown Vic Interceptors actually had a recall to replace the alternator pulley with one that contained an over-running clutch because the heavy armature spinning at high speed would break the pulley apart on sudden decel from high speeds when the belt slowed down faster than the alternator.

This effect is more pronounced on a clutch fan, and those will tighten themselves just by running the engine, but the effect is minute on a crank bolt.

holyford86 · Jun 2, 2015

I've pulled a crank pulley on a 4.0 without draining antifreeze, you still need to unbolt the radiator, and pull the fan shroud, but it was doable.

Bapfoutz · Jun 3, 2015

Well got the balancer off, lubed the new one trying to put it on had to push, try to hit it with mallet, tap on it with side of hammer because I only have 5 inches of space from HB from radiator. Should have taken it out

but I got it to where the 13/16" bolt will grab on the threads without the 1/4" washer. Do they make a 1/4" longer bolt with same threads ?I would be able to push the HB with bolt and washer if they make them?

Bapfoutz · Jun 3, 2015

Going to get a HB install tool tomorrow, should work

Bapfoutz · Jun 4, 2015

Finally put the HB on. before I replaced it, it was wobbling and the belt wanted to come the tension pulley, now that I replaced it the HB doesn't wobble but now I hear a ticking sound, and the belt still wants to slide off the tension pulley only a 1/8" inch but still. Now I got to locate the sound, I'm guessing it's goin to be the tension pulley... Any suggestions ?

Suggestions for removing harmonic balancer

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