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"Manual Transmition Lubricant Does Not Normally Need Changed"-Chilton Ranger '91-'99


RangerNeophyte

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"Manual Transmition Lubricant Does Not Normally Need Changed"-Chilton Ranger '91-'99

Year: 1997
Engine: 2.3L manual
Transmission: R-1
2wd



I have read throughout this forum and many others that the transmission fluid should be changed every 60,000 miles or so. In the Chilton's however it reads "Manual transmission lubricant does not normally need changing during the life of the vehicle, but if you wish to do so..." They truck has over 180,000 miles on it. Any thoughts? Is the Chilton wrong? Anyone have a Haynes? What does it say?
 


Captain Ledd

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I'd change it. It probably doesn't loose much lubrication properties, but it does get dirty and full of bits from wear. Of course a company would suggest "lubed for life" or really long change intervals because it's beneficial for them. When you don't change oils you save money!, then stuff wears out faster and breaks, then it's prohibitively expensive or difficult to replace, and then you buy a NEW truck!
 

adsm08

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I try to change my manual trans fluid whenever I do a clutch, so about 100K miles. Manual transmissions are not like autos where the clutching is happening in the fluid and releasing bits of clutch material into the fluid, and it isn't put under the same shear stresses so it will last longer and retain it's lubricating properties, but it does still need changed from time to time to protect the trans.

But Cap is mostly right about why companies extend service intervals, or say "lubed for life". The only part he missed is that by extending the service interval they can claim a lower cost of ownership and it makes the product look more competitive.
 

veefer800canuck

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I'd say change it.

What, it might take 3.5 quarts????

Just for peace of mind, that's worth it I say.
 

Mark_88

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Yes, change it. My last M5OD had over 440,000 km on it when I scrapped the truck and it shifted as smooth as anything...because I changed the fluid about every 100,000 km. Mind you, when I bought the truck it already had 250,000 km on the clock.

I've even bought and added that TransMedic stuff at one point when it was making this really loud whine and was shifting rough. The fluid was a bit low on that but after I topped it up within a week the whine was gone and shifting was smooth again...

Only thing I'd suggest for that job is some kind of pump bottle because it's kinda awkward trying to pour something into it the way it sits near the hump of the body...
 

RangerNeophyte

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Great!

Let me just say that I am really impressed with this community. This was my first post, and I got really helpful feedback. I wasn't expecting this kind of helpful reception. Much appreciation. Sounds like later today or tomorrow shits gettin' changed.

veefer800canuck- "What, it might take 3.5 quarts????"

I'll buy four then for good measure.

Captian and adsm-

Noted, guess it makes business sense for them to recommend something that would make them more money in the long run.

Mark-

Yeah, I'm going to buy the pump. They don't seem to be too expensive. I saw someone take off the shifter, and fill it through the top. As my name suggests, I'd much rather not ruin my shifter placement by doing something improperly. Simply, I'm learning as I go. Pumps seems like a safer option. :icon_thumby:
 

RangerNeophyte

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I'd say change it.

What, it might take 3.5 quarts????

Just for peace of mind, that's worth it I say.
I ended up taking out right around 2 and 3/4 quarts and putting in right about the same. I used a bubble level to make sure I was on nearly complete flat ground. Every where I read says 3 or so quarts. Hope I didn't mess something up.

For future readers:

On the R-1 transmission the fill and drain plug both take a 15/16 socket. If you do it just right you can drain it directly into a litter Coke bottle. I used a cheap aluminum pan to catch the excess drips. Mind you I did have a small puddle of fluid on the pavement when finished. It wasn't perfect, but it worked. I also used a pump. That little thing saved me a headache. I'd say it was worth the $6 or so. Also, I did this all without putting the car on blocks. There was enough room under my truck to get it done. Just took a bit of patients and dedication. To finish I put a bead of blue bolt sealant (Loctite) because I didn't have any thread tape handy.

Good luck!
 
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veefer800canuck

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I know you already changed it, but If you ever want to take off your shifter tower, you can pour the fluid right into the top until it comes out the fill plug on the side.
 

RangerNeophyte

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I know you already changed it, but If you ever want to take off your shifter tower, you can pour the fluid right into the top until it comes out the fill plug on the side.
Yeah, I saw that, but didn't feel confident enough in my own abilities to not screw something up. Some one in another thread said to make sure the gear stays is in neutral before removing the shifter tower another one said leave it in gear. I was unsure and thus the pump.
 

Mark_88

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I know you already changed it, but If you ever want to take off your shifter tower, you can pour the fluid right into the top until it comes out the fill plug on the side.
Yeah, I saw that, but didn't feel confident enough in my own abilities to not screw something up. Some one in another thread said to make sure the gear stays is in neutral before removing the shifter tower another one said leave it in gear. I was unsure and thus the pump.
This was my concern also. I took the easiest way on the path of least resistance...it has been learned that if something isn't broken...it will break or mess up just when you think you can trust it...so it makes a one hour job into a two day job sometimes...

Anyway...congrats...and let us know if the new fluid makes a difference...:icon_thumby:
 

RangerNeophyte

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This was my concern also. I took the easiest way on the path of least resistance...it has been learned that if something isn't broken...it will break or mess up just when you think you can trust it...so it makes a one hour job into a two day job sometimes...

Anyway...congrats...and let us know if the new fluid makes a difference...:icon_thumby:
Shifting is far smoother than before. The dirty fluid I pulled out definitely needed changing. Yeah, worth the time and effort.
 

AllanD

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Teflon thread tape is really only appropriate for tapered pipe threads...

The fill and drain plugs on the mazda built M5OD-R1 uses strait thread plugs which are sealed with a metallic "crush washer".

I change my manual transmission fluid every other time I do an engine oil change
 

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