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7.5 to 8.8 driveshaft question...


35Remmy

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Soon enough I'll be stuffing an 8.8 explorer rear I bought to replace the 7.5" that I have under my '88.

I'm also almost done building a 302 and want to have a driveshaft built to handle to power of the motor (around 350 rwhp).

I'm just looking for suggestions. Thinking 1330 joint at the rear, but up at the transfer case side (BW1350) won't I have to have the splined section of the slip yoke cut off and re welded to the new shaft? Even then Im still stuck with the smaller ujoints in the cardan shaft (isn't that what it's called?)coming OUT of the transfer case.

What do you all think?
 


adsm08

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You are planning to run a BW1350 behind a 302 and you are worried about the drive shaft?

I think you have your priorities mixed up.
 

35Remmy

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Adsm, yes mated to a built C4 with the Advance Adapters conversion kit that's coming tomorrow. It's even recommended on this site and every other v8 Ranger conversion site. This truck will see little wheeling and mostly around town driving during the warmer months. Just installed the James Duff Stage 3 5.5" suspension lift too.

What would be your approach?
 
adsm08

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I am not big into the V8 swap stuff, but I see far more often where the NP205 is recommended. Either way, I think the transfer case, more than the original drive shaft, would be the weak link in that chain.

I'm also not sure I can see the value in spending the time and money on a 5.5" lift for a truck that primarily be driven around town, in the summer. But I'm a pragmatist, and it's your truck/time/money.
 
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35Remmy

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Well I will look into that and I appreciate your feedback.
 
4x4junkie

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The 1350 should be fine for anything short of flagrant abuse.

However I would also agree that the stock driveshaft (assuming 1310-series joints, not the tiny 1210 junk seen on some '80s trucks) should be fine as well, and is well-matched to the strength of the t-case. Though if you don't gear your axle(s) properly for whatever size tire you intend to put on it will create a lot more stress on these parts (breakage is much more likely if for example you choose to run 3.73 or 4.10 gears with 35" tires)
 

35Remmy

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4x4 I wholeheartedly agree. Currently plan on running 35s after replacing the D28 with the D35 and 4.56s. How do you feel about this ratio? Everything I find says this is as close to the factory 4.10s in the truck as there is. 4.88???
 

35Remmy

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Oh and it's a 1354 mechanical not 1350 electric
 
4x4junkie

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4.56 is a good ratio for that. 4.88 might be a bit much though since you're not using an overdrive transmission.
 
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