to be honest ive seen the setups on other vehicles for hardcore racing (14 seconds and under drag cars/drift vehicles) but the amount of work/setup and cost altogether will kill the bank. methanol is similar to ethanol, or any other type of alcohol for that matter, when it burns it makes a sugar. this sugar eats the aluminum heads, top of the pistons, even your intake and exhaust ports. oxygenated racing fuels do the same thing, i rebuild dirtbikes and atvs that use it, let me tell you when you see half the piston and intake port and chamber eaten in half it makes you wonder why they run it in the first place. all the setups ive seen are built like this: first thing you need to do to run it is have your fuel system leaned (stoich on alcohol is around 16:1 id have to look it up for the actual number), then your pistons have to be changed to high compression/forged (alcohol doesnt like below 12.8:1 compression in most cases can vary with chamber design). ignition system upgrades are a touchy subject on this forum but it is recommended to handle the extra compression. thats what is the minimal requirements to run alcohol as a primary fuel. if your talking adding it to the stock system (like a shot of wet nos but continuously metered and fed) you will still have the alcohol damage inside the engine just not as quickly, and youll have to tune the engine out for it. the requirements for that are a secondary tank for the methanol, a secondary fuel rail with injectors for the meth, fuel lines, fuel pump, pressure regulator, and a piggyback computer to control the secondary injectors as the stock computer will not handle two sets of injectors. the other thing you have to weigh is how much are you wanting to inject into the engine, then being able to tune it for the addition. ive seen this done with water meth and wetnos setups for extra power while driving. the amount of fuel has to be increased to richen the mix as the alcohol/nos oxidizes the fuel too quickly and makes for pinging, ultimately your looking at using more gas (crappier mpg) for a slight power gain (20hp maximum) while driving and not only having to fill up with high octane gas (higher price) your also going to have to fill your water meth tank/nos bottle when you fill with gas (rediculous amount of money). all in all its deemed not worth it across the board. the honda guys experimented with it in the mid 90s as a cheap 20hp that turned into not so cheap power gain, the b18/d16y benefitted more from a cold air intake larger throttlebody/intake headers hi flow cat/muffler and a good tune. cheaper across the board, good useable power without the effects of alcohol/nos shortening the life of the engine and was good for 18hp in those engines. our 2.3 rangers on the other hand its easier to boost it for power than the majority of n/a tuning. is that your truck in the picture? you want better mileage id recommend smaller tires removing the heavy stuff (larger bumpers) and aluminum wheels. if you have a lift kit installed (suspension not body) the extra driveshaft strain from the larger angle creates a friction loss and you lose mileage there as well. you may even want to consider a regear depending on your trans/shift pattern. my 92 2.3 has a standard m50d trans and 3.73 gears i get around 24 mpg hwy while using oil. i have 215/70r14s installed that also lessen my rolling resistance and a free flowing intake/exhaust system. something else check your wheel bearings for slack and make sure your brakes arent too tight they will increase drag and reduce mpg as well.