No start weird issue

This is my issue

1994 4.0 auto

Spits and sputters when cranking but if you dump gas in the intake it will run till the gas runs out. (Or starting fluid)

Great spark new plugs and wires
Tac moves when cranking so cps seems fine by my judgement

60ish psi on the incoming line to the regulator tested injectors they come on with key, (tested with test light) zero fuel pressure on fuel pressure test port.

I got a brand new fuel pressure regulator for it today still no start.

Took the regulator out of the intake/fuel rail and left it hooked up to the vacuum and fuel line and nothing comes out when cranking, does that mean bad regulator I would assume



Also can anyone get me a vacuum hose diagram or under the hood pics??

Thanks in advance all help is appreciated.

Welcome to TRS

You have the fuel system backwards in your thinking

(gas tank)Fuel pump----------(30psi)---------------Fuel Rail/injectors-----Fuel Pressure Regulator--------(0psi)--------Return line(gas tank)

Fuel pump is in the gas tank, you should hear it run each time you turn on the key, it only runs for 2 seconds but it isn't quiet, you can hear it HUMMMM from the cab

The hose/line from the fuel pump to Fuel Rail on the intake manifold should have 30-40psi pressure in a 1994(1998 and up used 60psi)

Fuel Pressure Regulator(FPR) is on the fuel rail along with the injectors, it is a valve with a spring that is PUSHED open when fuel pressure from the pump gets above about 42psi, then that pressure/gasoline flows out of the valve to the Return hose/line and back to the gas tank.
Vacuum hose on the FPR aids the spring by pulling open the valve a bit when engine vacuum is high, like when idling, low fuel demand so less fuel pressure is needed.

It reads like your fuel pump is not coming on.
Turn key on and off as much as needed to confirm you hear the pump or that you don't

Fuel pump power comes from a Fuel Pump fuse in the engine fuse box, and from the Fuel pump relay also in that same fuse box

Battery----FP Fuse(30amp)-----FP Relay----------------inertia switch--------------Fuel pump

Inertia switch is in the cab, passenger side foot well area, under glove box
It is a small black plastic box with Red button on the top
Looks like this: http://www.fixya.com/uploads/images/4A37D3B.jpg

Inertia switch will have 3 wires on 2 terminals, you can use a volt meter or test light to see if you have 12volts on both terminals, when key is turned on, voltage is only there for 2 seconds, after that you will see only 5-7volts, thats from the computer and no amps so can't power fuel pump
12 volts at inertia switch for those 2 seconds means the fuse and relay are good, Fuel Pump or its connector on the tank have failed

Inertia switch has a heavy ball inside, if there is a sudden stop or change in direction, i.e. accident or roll-over, the ball will move and cut power to fuel pump to prevent possible fire
The reset button is there so vehicle can be moved after a fender bender, once it has been "tripped" it needs to be replaced or it will "trip" again by slamming the door or even a speed bump

Yes

The fuel pump comes on and the line that runs from the tank to The fuel filter and then come from the fuel filter to the regulator has 60 to 70 pounds at the screw on connection that connects to the regulator, the inertia switch is good all fuses in both fuse boxes are good and injectors power on, when the fuel line is connected to the regulator and the regulator is in the rail the fuel rail pressure test port has no fuel pressure so I'm assuming the new regulator I was sold was faulty.

So the regulator should flow fuel through it whether it's connected to the fuel rail or not correct?

Also you're saying the fuel line that comes from the filter goes to the regulator and the one on the back of the intake or fuel rail is the return for the tank correct?

No, that is backwards

Fuel tank Pump----------filter-------------fuel rail------injectors

Regulator------------------------fuel tank

Fuel rail is sandwiched between upper and lower intakes
Fuel line from the Filter connects on drivers side toward the rear

You have the lines reversed

Pressure from the pump/filter line can get up to 60-70psi if there is no relief
That pressure travels thru the fuel rail TO the Regulator, where any pressure above 40psi is released by the Regulator and allowed to flow back to the fuel tank, maintaining 30-40psi in the fuel rail

So the one that comes off the fuel filter goes to the back of the motor on the driver side and the other one goes to the regulator on the front of the motor correct because right now the one that pushes fuel out we have going to the regulator and the other one on, the back driver side of the motor

Yes, you have it backwards

The fuel lines only fit one way the fittings are different sizes. The front don't fit the back and the back does not fit in the front where it hooks to the regulator.

So one more time to clarify that the fuel supply line hooks to the rear of the motor and the return line screws onto the regulator on the front of the motor right?

Could it be because this is a motor out of a different ranger that the fittings are different it was still out of a 94 but I don't see why they would be different

Yes, could be

The fuel pump hose is connected to the drivers side rear, the Fuel Rail
Return line is connected to Fuel Pressure Regulator
Was the same on all Rangers since '85/'86 when EFI was first used, and thru 1997 when Returnless EFI was started

Dorman makes couplers/unions for the Ford nylon fuel lines, so you could cut the lines and swap ends on the two lines
There are also adapters that could be used, although I don't know what threads they would be

Okay yeah cause The fittings are different on the ends so I guess I'll get hose barbs and splice them together