99 XLT Ranger 4.0 a lil coil info if possible

Hey all! Hoping to get a little quick info on the coil pack '99 Ranger XLT 4.0. Bench test results;
Primary 2.0, 1.8, 1.8 ohms
Secondary 13.19k, 12.98k, 13.07k ohms

No spark at the plug when engine is turned. Wires good.

Dead coil?? Found the specs for a '98 and '94 and they were close to the same but not exactly (either way my primaries are out of spec). Wanted to be sure before spending $$. Thanks in advance!!

Test the Red wire on the coil packs 4 wire connector, it should have 12volts with key on
If not then check Fuse #19 in engine fuse box, this fuse powers the computer as well as fuel injectors

Your Primary readings on the coil pack are OK because OHM meters are often not calibrated that well, and since the 3 coils in the coil pack only share the one 12volt wire having all 3 go "bad" would be a rare occurrence
And all 3 of yours are the same, .2ohm difference is not enough for "bad"

I would take your ohm meter to parts store and test New coil pack, before buying it, if it also tests in the 2 ohm area then yours is good.

Computer won't start spark(or fuel) until it gets a timing pulse from the crank(CKP) sensor.
That's the only sensor that "wakes up" the computer to let it know you want to start the engine.
So another test you can do is to crank the engine a few times and then pull out a spark plug, check its tip for gasoline, if no gasoline then computer is not starting spark or fuel so either doesn't see Crank Sensor pulse or computer is bad.
If spark plug is wet with fuel then yes it is a spark specific problem, so could indeed be total coil pack failure, never heard of that happening but always a first time.

Crank sensors rarely fail, not never, but rarely, check connector, it can get moisture inside
Crank sensor is located at about 10:00 position next to crank pulley, it "reads" the teeth on the "tone wheel" on the back of the pulley, there is one missing tooth, a gap, that is #1 TDC timing mark, if a tooth breaks on the tone will then there would be 2 gaps and computer would ignore all pulses because of broken tone wheel, never seen that happen, lol, but have seen tone wheel caked with mud, which can get similar no spark.
They are Variable Reluctance(VR) sensors, so generate their own AC voltage as crank pulley "teeth" pass by.
They can be tested with volt meter set to AC volts, should read .5 to 1.0volts when engine is being cranked by starter motor.

Check Engine light(CEL) should stay on if Cam sensor is sending a pulse but Crank sensor is not, and visa versa
So if possible read the codes, to see if there are any.

Thanks for the info Ron. Multimeter is not an expensive one.. CenTech from Harbor Freight (does the job).
Pulled plug after cranking and it was dry. Fuel pump is working. Also sprayed start fluid into intake... nada.
Have been considering the CKP but no codes. That may not be an absolute tho, CEL staying on or throwing a code for bad CKP. Tone wheel is in fine shape with no broken teeth. Don't have a helper to crank while I check voltage on the CKP. Have been looking for resistance values for it but no such luck so far.
I'll take my multi with me to the parts store and check a new coil pack. Thanks for the reply!!
BTW, has 220K+ miles. Things are getting old on this gem of mine for sure. Hate to lay down a truck that runs as good as it does.

One investment for the future if you intend to own ANY vehicles is the $20-$30 for an OBD2 bluetooth adapter, assuming you have a smartphone or laptop with bluetooth

These plug into the OBD2 port on ANY vehicle sold in the US or Canada since 1995/6
Then with a Free APP or $5 APP you can see codes, if any, but also LIVE data.
So in this case you could put Crank Sensor data on the screen(of smartphone or laptop) and crank the engine to see if it was working.

Very good tool now-a-days for diagnostics.

If you decide to get one, also get an extension cable with it($5-$8), I find this handy because some OBD2 plug-ins are hidden behind a panel, a tight squeeze for the Bluetooth unit, the extension cable allows same hook up as Wired OBD2 scanner which is what opening was designed for.
The OBD port has power so no batteries are needed


And one heads up on the Computer, it is located on upper part of firewall passenger side center, larger 104 pin connector.
Ford did have issue with these getting water inside the connector if hood gasket leaked.
So might be worth while to unhook battery then unbolt that connector and pull it off to have a look inside.
Could just be a corroded connection and pulling it off and putting it back on will clean it up enough to get it working again

Thanks again RonD for the info on the bluetooth OBD2. I have a wired OBD2 reader but the app having that kind of specificity for diagnostics would go a long way in several situations. I'll definitely have to look into getting one.

Appreciate all the other info.. am retired from the company so I know most things just not the specifications on some things, esp electronics.

As it turned out it was the CKP. Put a new one on it and fired right up. Was pretty obvious the difference in magnet strength.... $17 and done. Thanks again!!!