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1992 Ranger


Jerlaine

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Ok so my truck acts up, mostly when it's hit outside and being in Tucson isn't helping. It'll run fine for a but but then big down for a few seconds and die kind if like it's vapor locking. So i think it might be the fuel pressure regulator. However part of the problem is when it dies it acts like it's not getting enough fuel but i know it does as half the time you can smell fuel like it's flooding to much... I recently replaced almost all of the sensors, the plugs, wires, coil pack. The fuel pump was replaced a month or 2 ago, as of now i have a fuel filter to put in but i don't think it'll fix the problem and wanted to hear what you all thought
 


RonD

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Sensors rarely fail, just FYI, and replacing factory sensors is a roll of the dice, "new" doesn't mean what it used to
"New" once meant "tested and working"
"New" now means "you test it and we will replace it if it doesn't work"
So installing a new sensor, unless it is OEM Ford sensor and costs an arm and a leg, doesn't eliminate that sensor as the problem.
One of the reasons Ford, or any dealer parts, are so expensive is because most are tested before being shipped to Ford, one of the requirements.

O2 sensors do wear out since they use a chemical reaction to detect Oxygen levels in the exhaust, so these should be replaced every 100-150k miles, it will improve MPG, because as they get older they make the computer run engine Richer

MAF sensor needs to be cleaned every few years, MAF sensor causes the most bogging problems with the 4.0l OHV engines
It gets dirty even with good air filter
Cleaning MAF here: http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/CleanMAF.shtml

Fuel filter changed every 5 years or so

There is an IAT(intake air temp) sensor that should be checked because of the "seems to run worse in hot weather" statement
It is on the upper intake, drivers side in the middle, 2 wire connector

Gasoline engines run at 14.7:1 air:fuel ratio, this is a WEIGHT ratio, 14.7 POUNDS of air is mixed with 1 POUND of gasoline to get the correct mix
Or 14.7 grams of air to 1 gram of gasoline

Cold air is heavier than warm air, i.e. "warm air rises", that's because it is lighter than cooler air
So...........the computer that adds gasoline to the engine needs to know the weight of the air coming in so it can add the correct amount of fuel.
MAF sensor compensates a bit for the air temp, but IAT sensor is still needed to get best mix

Unscrew IAT sensor and clean its end
It can be tested with OHM meter
Chart here: http://www.aa1car.com/library/air_temp_sensor.gif

1992 Ranger will run 30psi fuel pressure from gas tank to fuel rail on the engine, so vapor lock is not likely, when engines used mechanical fuel pumps on the engine the fuel pressure in the line from the gas tank was 0psi so gasoline in that line could vaporize if fuel line got hot enough.
As pressure goes up vapor point of gasoline goes up, so while possible, it isn't likely at 30psi.
 
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Jerlaine

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Vapor lock shouldn't be possible unless the for went out and it was doing this previously, the air intake was 1 of the sensors i replaced and because it had issues i replaced it again. 1 bad makes sense 2 and I'll be skeptical but it is a rockauto part so I won't be surprised. So if the sensor was bad how would i go about testing it? Oh and the maf sensor was cleaned with maf sensor cleaner i can try the vinegar truck but that'll have to wait as the transmission shop emptied my account
 

RonD

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IAT sensor testing was in above post, as was MAF sensor testing in the Cleaning MAF link

Do you notice the bogging down is related to fuel level in the tank?
Fuel pump is cooled by the gasoline in the tank, so lower fuel level means warmer pump and it is possible pump is stumbling a bit as it gets too warm, start of a failing fuel pump.
Fuel pump also doesn't have to work as hard with a full tank, weight of the fuel adds pressure to pump inlet since it is at the bottom of the tank
 

Jerlaine

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No it does it regardless of how much fuel is in the tank. It's got 3/4ths a tank right now and did it yesterday. The MAF has been thoroughly cleaned and worked with no issues on my 93 explorer, as did the iat sensor. It threw a code for the temp sensor so i swapped both for good measure. It's kept acting up and that's when i purchased a new sensor altogether. The link above just gave the chart so i googled how to actually test it and the same page recommended using a hair dryer, unfortunately i don't have 1or access to one either. I can try cleaning the maf again and then test it but I'm honestly wondering if maybe it's the ecm at this point
 

RonD

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You would test IAT with OHM Meter just to see if it is close to correct temp, i.e. outside temp at the time you test it.
You can use warm water if you want to see if it changes, but not really needed if temp OHM looks OK

The 4.0l OHV EDIS spark system is bullet proof, can't even recall reading about a problem with it.

Computer runs Open Loop when engine is Cold, so doesn't use most sensors, so if there is no bogging when cold that would tend to point to computer/sensor issue

If computer is getting correct air flow and air temp data then next stop is Fuel pressure
Very very unusual for fuel pressure to be intermittent.
If fuel pressure regulator starts to leak or fail then you loose top end power, feels like running out of gas above 50MPH, but no bogging and coming back
Same for fuel pump, these usually just quit one day stranding you with no warning, lol.

You could swap Fuel Pump Relay and WOT(wide open throttle) relay, to take it off the table
If FP relay is popping open for a second then engine bogs and comes back when it closes agian
 

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