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2000 Ford ranger cranks and turns over but won't run?


jeremyctry

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2000 Ford ranger 4x4 began idling rough and died at stop sign, in 107 degree heat (ambient temp) not engine temp. 4.0 OHV cranks and turns over but will not run. I've replaced fuel pump relay, and fuel pump. Need help.
 


Tedybear

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My credo
Failing is easy. Everyone can do it.
Give it a little shot of starter fluid in the air intake. If it starts and dies- Fuel issue. If nothing changes, move to a possible spark issue.

S-
 

jeremyctry

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I just checked the inertia switch it's not popped. I disconnected the fuel line at the fuel rail and no fuel came out when trying to crank vehicle and pumping gas pedal I'm out of starting fluid at the moment would I be correct in assuming my problem is fuel related?
 

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Yes you would be correct.
drivers window open, turn OFF Radio

Turn on the key and listen for fuel pump, it is not quiet, it should hum for 2 seconds, but only 2 seconds, turn key off and on as much as you want to hear pump.
Fuel pump has a 20amp fuse in engine fuse box.

2000 Ranger 4.0l will have PATS(passive anti-theft system), the keys made for this one truck each has a unique code number in the handle, no batteries needed.
When you turn on the key that code number is sent to the computer, computer compares it to the key numbers it was programed with at the factory, if number matches then computer will TURN ON fuel pump and Fuel Injectors.

If key does NOT match, or no number is sent, then no fuel pump and no fuel injectors.

So you could have a PATS issue.
There will be an Anti-theft light on the dash, it should blink slowly, every few seconds, when key is not in or doors are locked.
That will tell you that the bulb is not burned out.

If you use the wrong or a bad PATS key then Anti-theft light will flash rapidly.

There is no by-pass for PATS system, if you think this is the problem then you either need to try a spare key, tow the truck to Ford dealer or a Locksmith with Ford software, they can correct and/or add more PATS keys to computers memory.
Or call a Mobile Locksmith that has Ford software
 
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jeremyctry

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I know its not PATS I heard a click from the fuel pump but no whine. I replaced the Fuel pump, and fuel relay(20 amp fuse) and still no joy. I also did grab a can of starter fluid from the gas station and it will start and run when I'm spraying starter fluid, but when I stop spraying it dies.
 

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If fuel pump doesn't come on for those 2 seconds then either new pump is bad or the wire to it is bad.
Check voltage at inertia switch, should see 5-7volts key on, that's from the computers monitor circuit, no amps just volts so can't run pump, test both connections on the switch if you see that 5-7v on both then inertia switch is good.
Then cycle key off and then on, if fuel pump relay and fuse is good then you will see 12volts for 2 seconds at the inertia switch.
If you do then wiring or pump issue from there back to the tank.
If no 12volts then wiring, relay or fuse issue back to engine fuse box


Battery--------fuse-------FP relay-------inertia switch---------------------------------Fuel pump-------Ground

Could be a ground issue as well, pump won't run just on 12volts, it also needs a ground
Ground for pump can be near inertia switch or in the frame
 
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jeremyctry

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okay so I tested the wiring at the inertia switch. first of all the connector looks like it has gotten hot and and started to burn. 3 wires coming into the connector on the passenger side of connector I get 7 amps with key on when I cycle the key off and then back on It never gets above 7 amps. On the driver side (the side that looks damaged) I get nothing at all. Any feed back and suggestions on what to try next would be great.
 

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You mean 7 volts

The 5 to 7 volts is from the computer, it has no amps so won't run the fuel pump, computer monitors FP voltage.
You need to see 12volts at the inertia switch terminal for 2 seconds after key is turned on.

Both sides of inertia switch should show the same voltage, it is just a pass-thru, push down on reset button, if you still don't see the 7 volts then replace inertia switch

But your main problem, no 12volts, is from the battery to the inertia switch.


Battery--------fuse-------FP relay-------inertia switch

Check the fuse and FP relay
 
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jeremyctry

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alright so I checked my new relay its good but I was somehow managing to look at the wrong fuse my 20 amp fuel pump fuse is blowing as soon as I turn the key(3 in a row). would that be a faulty ground? or something else?
 

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Yes, that would be a short to ground, when fuel pump relay closes, because the fuel pump fuse is connected directly to the battery.

Switch volt meter to OHMs and test for 0 OHMs on the wires

Disconnect wires at inertia switch, both sides
I only see 2 wires on one terminal, Green/yellow stripe(power from relay) and a Grey/orange stripe wire that goes to dash(fuel reset light bulb)
But there could be 2 Green/yellow stripe wires, one going to relay and one going to computer.

The other terminal will have Pink/black stripe wire, that on goes to the fuel pump

Test each wire for a short to Ground, meter set at 200 ohms or lowest setting, one probe on the wire and the other on a Ground

The pink wire will have a low number 10-15ohm because it is a motor, if 0 then motor is bad, but could be the wire has shorted to body or frame
 

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crank no start

I don't known if you fixed it or not but it happened to me as well. a very hot day stuck in traffic. finally able to bail out and get home. parked the truck for 2 hrs, then get in to go and crank but no start. every once in a half dozen tries it would start and run good but if I turned it off it wouldn't start again. turns out it was the crank position sensor. the magnet fell out of the end! presumably from the extreme heat.
 

little red ranger

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See if this link works,,, might help you to troubleshoot--------http://www.revbase.com/BBBMotor/Wd-------------------- lots of good wiring diagrams here,, save and pass it around
 
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little red ranger

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I am not sure that you should rule out your PATS just yet,the PATS will let the fuel pump run but just not let the injectors fire by not letting the computer ground them,depending on which PATS you have it can ground out your starter so it wont turn over or ground out your injectors so they wont spray or both depending on which PATS you have
 

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