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Why am I missing?


jtsmith

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Hi Gang.

My son and I are working on a 160k mile 2004 Ranger Edge 2wd 5speed.
If we can make it run, it will be his DD, for now.

The issue is with cylinder 2.
There is a dead miss at idle It can be felt in the whole truck.

Pulling the spark plug from cylinder 2 coil pack position 2 does not cause much if any idle change.
Pulling all others does cause even more stumble.

Coil pack was changed, and wires placed as they were on the original.
#2 fuel injector has been replaced. To rule out broken replacement part it was placed into cylinder 1 ( did not change idle in cylinder 2)
LED test light flashes when connected to #2 injector harness.

All spark plugs replaced with autolite ap104 , along with new spark plug wires.
No change.

Compression pumps= 85 psi first pump up , 136 psi after 5 compression cycles

cylinder one pumps to 170 psi after 5 cycles. I have not tested any other cylinders as we're 20% off

We've already done a seafoam treatment hoping for a crusty intake valve not seating. We used the old spark plugs for this.

Oil looks good. We haven't touched it or the coolant since getting it, the coolant looks nice and clean-green and toxic.

It has not been driven, but has been allowed to warm up and has had the shit revved outta it, holding it up to 4500 rpm's while burning out the seafoam goo. Believe it or not, the CEL will not come on. It turns on with key on, but will not illuminate even when I unplug spark plug wires, or fuel injector connectors, causing several random misfires. Weird. My scangauge confirms this with no pending codes displayed.



The head has to come off. Unless someone has some advice .

I'm all ears at this point. I appreciate any tips or items to be checking for.
 
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RonD

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There is a TSB about 2004-2006 Rangers with 3.0l engine.

Seems the exhaust valve seats can recess causing misfire from low compression.

Fix is new heads or repair current heads , but both heads should come off.

If possible put #2 at TDC then put air pressure in at spark plug hole, listen at tail pipe for hissing sound, that would say you for sure have exhaust valve issue.

Full TSB here: http://www.therangerstation.com/ford_ranger_buyers_guide/Ford_technical_service_ bulletin_tsb_05-26-3.shtml

Not sure why the CEL is not on or why misfire codes are not stored.
Misfires won't set codes unless it reoccurs at specific RPMs repeatedly, computer keeps track of these misfires.
So because it hasn't been driven daily it could be normal that there are no codes set....yet
 
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jtsmith

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Thanks for the reply.
Seems I had read about this issue before.

We already got the radiator drained and upper pulled off, with all bolts in labeled and corresponding zip lock baggies.
He has to go in to work so we'll pick up later.

However, I did notice that both valve covers need to come off before removing the lower intake, so, yeah. The other head should come off also, seeing as it's only about 10 more bolts by the time you are there. It would be silly to ignore it.



Good times.

What about the complete cylinder heads on Ebay? The feedback looks good,
 

RonD

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Sure, ebay is fine, shipping can get expensive because of the weight, local can be less.

Head bolts are the new style TTY(torque to yeild), so must be replaced.

Yes both heads because if one head gets the recess valve seat issue then the other will as well as time, and miles, go by
 

jtsmith

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Thanks. There are several vendors on ebay who advertise "hardened valve seats" , and have free core shipping included.

This is a as we can get to it project. With my son working 2 jobs, often called in to cover shifts and rain, it's been difficult to work in time.

Today however we were able to get in and learn a few things. One being there are many things to take apart to get to what you need to take apart. :D

Whoever was in charge of keeping the driver side accessory bracket attached sure did his job.

We got to the exhaust manifold bolts, and the first one we tried-oil dip stick stud, broke off in the head. Then the phone rang and he was called in to work.

I actually thought we'd have the heads pulled in about 45 minutes. But nooo, this aint no ford small block v8.
See what I learned today?
 

dannyboy2311

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I have never tried to take off my headers but did notice that same stud is broken in my '03 3.0 Ranger. Hopefully that will be the only one that will break on you, it may be a common problem. Good luck!

Sent from my LG-D850 using Tapatalk
 

enjr44

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You will break more exhaust manifold bolts (they didn't make these things to take apart). If you were going to fix the heads and reuse them, I would pull them with the manifold attached and have a machine shop take them off when they do the heads.

Back in the day (before cost driving everything) they used studs with nuts for just this reason!!!
 

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